Penglii Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 You are understanding correctly... and I sort of tried that, but it was complicated by the studs not sticking out far enough. The block of wood, or the bare head of the jack, both encounter subframe tubing before they touch the stud. I tried using a 1/4 inch drive 13mm socket to fill that gap... but I could not get it centered enough to not pop out under pressure. Maybe if I could find like a 1"x1"x2" steel cube then I could get enough of a grip to make that work. At least now I have a list of things to acquire at the hardware store tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 I did the same thing Aaron suggested, I used a jack... I think I actually set my hammer on the jack and used the side of the hammer to push up on the bolts... And theoretically, could you set the motor back down and reattach the top bolts and then jack it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 I did the same thing Aaron suggested, I used a jack... I think I actually set my hammer on the jack and used the side of the hammer to push up on the bolts... And theoretically, could you set the motor back down and reattach the top bolts and then jack it up? That hammer idea is a good one, better than any idea I had so far. I *could* set the motor back down on the old mount and lift it out that way... but since the mount is blown the studs now point way too far in random directions and I have no idea how I'd get them aligned right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 lots of rubber bands to keep tension plus something thin yet stiff to put between the studs to keep them parallel? i really don't know, i have yet to change a lower engine mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 i really don't know, i have yet to change a lower engine mount. Now that I am more awake and alert and less pissed off... I feel that finishing the job is maybe not as impossible as I thought. Don't know how I forgot about it, but I just remembered I have a bottle jack with a relatively small round jack head that should fit the task perfectly. In retrospect, as colossally irritating as replacing the broken OFA was... I think that was ultimately a cakewalk compared to this motor mount job so far. Now I really wish I had been able to get a solid mount in the first place. I'm still worried about how to get the new mount studs lined up and seated correctly when I get that far... but I will cross that bridge when I get to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 Random question... will I have better luck dropping the new mounts studs into the holes if I have the entire front end off the ground? Currently I only have the passenger side off the ground... but it occurs to me that maybe gravity will be working against me unless I get the other side off the ground too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 OK... got the gross old mount out of there and the new mount in it's place. This is a very good start. It took jacking up the engine, then jacking on one of the bolts with my bottle jack until it popped out... then jacking on the other bolt until it popped out (causing the other side to pop back in) and then smashing the one bolt with a hammer until the whole thing came out. Holy crap it was really in there... Now I'm at the part I was dreading from the get go... aligning all the bolts. I have no idea how I'm really going to do that... I guess I'll keep trying things until it works. At this point I'm already feeling a lot better about getting this job complete this evening and thus being able to drive the car tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2012 OK... got all the bolts aligned and the engine is seated. YAY!!! Now that I look back on it, lowering the engine onto the new mount was quite easy. Got them aligned on my second try. Getting the top 2 nuts back on I think was harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGTGP Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 OK... got the gross old mount out of there and the new mount in it's place. This is a very good start.It took jacking up the engine, then jacking on one of the bolts with my bottle jack until it popped out... then jacking on the other bolt until it popped out (causing the other side to pop back in) and then smashing the one bolt with a hammer until the whole thing came out. Holy crap it was really in there... Now I'm at the part I was dreading from the get go... aligning all the bolts. I have no idea how I'm really going to do that... I guess I'll keep trying things until it works. At this point I'm already feeling a lot better about getting this job complete this evening and thus being able to drive the car tomorrow. getting my 3800 back down on the bolts was a pain in the ass as well when i jack it high enough to get the old mount out the motor rotated back abit.. had to have a buddy of mine rap a tow strap around a bracket and practically stand on the bumper while i lowered it on to the mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 Getting the engine back down on the new mount was WAY easier than I was anticipating. On my first try the engine was just resting on top of the studs... so I lifted it back up, wiggled the mount around until I could get it lined up with the holes, then quickly (before anything could shift) lowered it back down. Dropped right in place. I think I'll have to find an actual solid mount sooner than I thought. Drove the car 3 hours north up to Minocqua on Saturday and I'm up here for the week. Already I can tell the hydraulic mount is softening up, I will not be at all surprised if it's blown out again by the time I get back home this upcoming Saturday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 .......... hydraulic mount = only good for 6 hours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 I hope you get your money back... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 .......... hydraulic mount = only good for 6 hours? That is what it seems so far... I will take a closer look when I get home on Saturday. But the poly dogbones are obviously still flawless, and the solid rubber trans mount still appears good... I cannot get under the car enough right now to make 100% sure that the hydraulic motor mount has already started to fail, but all signs point to it. My biggest clue so far is that right after I put the new motor mount in, shifting into reverse was smooth as butter... 4 or 5 shifts into reverse later, it's already starting to clunk again. It is still a softer clunk, but it's obviously getting worse and it is obviously not the trans modulator since the slop is coming from the motor mount area exactly like before with the old blown mount. I am not thrilled. At least swapping it out for a solid one will not be such a heinous ordeal now that I know what I am doing. LOL I hope you get your money back... Thank you, I hope so too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 (edited) Went up to Northern Wisconsin for a week Which means I successfully completed a ~360 mile round trip in the TGP. Plus maybe like 15 miles total of random driving here and there, I did not datalog any of that... just have 6 hours of highway data. Like 90% interstate/highway... drove mostly gently because the upper end has not been tuned yet... soon though... soon... I intend on checking my tunerpro logs and get some sort of MPG number... just as soon as I figure out how to do that. I assume I got decent mileage since I performed possibly the most gentle driving this car will ever see. LOL Even when you are avoiding the boost, a TGP is still a bonkers amount of fun to drive. I'm still pissed about this hydraulic motor mount though, I'm gonna crawl underneath and take a look at it tomorrow and see how blown it is after only 6 or 7 hours of use. I am expecting a big mess. Edited August 5, 2012 by Penglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 i have a spreadsheet i made up for calc'ing MPG.... seems to be accurate as well, as long as it gets good data into it. you have Excel/openoffice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Yes, I have access to both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 here are some files... ADX has some new calculations in it for both an instantaneous calculation and makes compatible values for my spreadsheet calculator. you'll need to update something though. A*(1/3600000)*(22.5)*(3)*E*(60)*(2) in that equation(the equation for creating fuel flow rate in lb/hr), the 22.5 needs changed to the lb/hr rating of whatever injectors you're using. then that ADX will be customized for your flowrate. for the spreadsheet, export a tunerpro log into CSV format(acquisition->export log file), if you have a log loaded, it should automatically be selected at the top of the prompt, otherwise, find a log to export. select "selective export" and select these things in this order: Final BPW Engine Speed Fuel Flow in Gal/Hr Fuel Flow in Lb/Hr Vehicle Speed now a CSV file is created. open it, and open the calculating spreadsheet. scroll all the way to the bottom of the CSV and copy/paste the info from the calc into the CSV as seen in this pic: the important part is to paste it all into row/column A, i leave a space between the last sample out of habit, may not be necessary. now a couple of numbers need changed, since they don't copy/paste correctly, at least not with openoffice. a lot of the calculated numbers will show nonsense until the equations are corrected(sadly, has to be done for every spreadheet), so click the calculated hours cell, change the equation to =(B12680-B4)/3600 with the 12680 portion being replaced with the number of the last row/column that has a sample in it. the 4 portion is used in case you want to remove a section of the log in the beginning, such as if you start logging before the engine is actually running. in which case, change it to the first cell where the engine starts turning. now jump to the average fuel flow calculation, change it to: =AVERAGE(E4:E12680) the 12680 being the final cell again, the 4 being the start of what to calculate again. make it the same number as you did for the first change. now we move onto our final change with average speed. change it to: =AVERAGE(G4:12680) same idea here, match the numbers to the ones above. now the calculation should come up with a reasonable MPG calculation for the log, assuming no erronious data was logged. this is also done based on double-fire fueling, so if single-fire mode is entered, it will throw things off. http://www.wikifortio.com/719577/TGPmodded5aug2012.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Cool, that seems quite handy. For the flow rate calculation... do I use the 26lb number that accel rated the injectors at? Or do I locate and use the injector flow rate constant from my BIN and use that? I ask just because although they are 26lb rated injectors... Adam mentioned once that my datalogs show them flowing more like 32lb injectors... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 just use whatever flowrate they are rated to flow at the pressure you're running them at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 just use whatever flowrate they are rated to flow at the pressure you're running them at. Sounds good... I suppose in the tuning world "rated flowrate" and "how they behave" are somewhat different things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 theory almost never stands up to reality.... but it's a good place to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 According to this page (http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm#ACCEL) my injectors are rated for 26lbs/hr at 43.5PSI... and the TGP I believe is 45 PSI... so that gives me an actual rated flow rate of 26.9 I believe. So I guess I'll go with that for now. Since the instant fuel economy displayed on the dashboard for the old logs I'm viewing is now showing me just 1.$ or 1 and the Economy by MPH and Vacuum table is now coming up all zeros... that something is not right? Or will the revised ADX just not work right for reading back these old logs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Quick update... I see in that new ADX you send me that the "instant fuel economy" equation is set to A/B where both A&B are the Vehicle Speed. There's no way that can be right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 odd.... change B to fuel flow in Gal/Hr and it should read correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted August 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Yup, that fixes it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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