Garrett Powered Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 I highly doubt a netbook can be charged via usb... I have a car charger for mine. Edit: Also, where would the USB get it's power from? I got one on my deck's faceplate, and I got a ipod one you plug into the cig lighter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 Just got 1.25 holes drilled out of my dogbones before my el cheapo cordless drill ran out of power... I wonder how long it takes to charge. Also, the aluminum dogbones are super easy to drill! I got acceptable results on the first hole just holding the piece freehand against a board on my garage floor. I love aluminum. LOL This first hole is slightly uneven, a couple of small ridges... I was doing this freehand after all... but I think if I smooth it out slightly with sandpaper it will be good to go. Do I need to lubricate the bushings when I push them in? The poly bushings did not come with any lube... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 I got one on my deck's faceplate, and I got a ipod one you plug into the cig lighter Gotcha... I used to have my nice head unit with USB in the TGP, but it's in the Sedan now since it's the main DD. I put the cassette deck back into the TGP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 CANNOT charge a laptop via USB. USB only pushes out 5 volts at a very low current (~500mA max) and i can guarantee you that no laptop made has the circuitry required to attempt to step up the 5 volts to something that will actually charge the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 12, 2012 Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 http://www.ebay.com/itm/HQRP-12V-Car-Charger-DC-Adapter-fits-Asus-Eee-PC-1005HA-/350405923906?pt=Laptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item5195d21442#ht_3402wt_936 never mind all that. I got an ac adapter I could have used, but I opted to just get this for 14 bucks and free shipping. I just didn't want to carry around the little wall wart and have a tangled mess to deal with from the house charger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2012 That is a very compact charger. Mine is a bit more inconvenient... the picture makes it look way bigger than it is though. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q74RE8/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 (edited) Poly dogbones are in! WOOT! Here is a bunch of pics of the dogbones and of the engine bay... Edited July 14, 2012 by Penglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 I need me some of them doggie bones for my red one! also; I always wondered what that one was for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 How much vibrations do those poly bushings cause you? Also do you have the part# for those bushings. I kinda of what to do this to my 3.1 since the dog bones are just laying on the garage floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 I think the woof woof dog icon is awesome. The aluminum oem style dogbones are super easy to drill through, would have been a snap if I was using a drill that at least pretended to have much torque or battery capacity. I don't know that the aluminum oem dogbones can be bought new anymore, I have only seen the cast iron ones. I was lucky to already have a set on the tgp when I bought it... I was also lucky that I did not hurt myself removing the old rubber bushings. Yikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 How much vibrations do those poly bushings cause you? I have no idea, I just put them in the car. I hope to bleed the brakes tomorrow and see how she drives. I suppose I could find out how the vibrations at idle is increased... I may do that before I go to bed tonight. I am expecting an increase in cabin vibration, but I have no problems with that. Also do you have the part# for those bushings. I kinda of what to do this to my 3.1 since the dog bones are just laying on the garage floor. Energy Suspension #3.7103R is the number for red bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 I was lucky to already have a set on the tgp when I bought it... I was also lucky that I did not hurt myself removing the old rubber bushings. Yikes. question: with my "5 speed only" triple bushing dogbone (what would you call that? t-bone? ) I need to do the one side with poly because it prematurely wore out, but just on the engine side.I plan on just having the machine shop push it out with the press. I might as well have them install the poly one while I am there. is there any chance the poly ones will press in without boring the mount at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Cannot press a poly bushing into an undrilled dogbone unless you carve the poly bushings into a cone shape... and I think that would be worth avoiding. It's not too bad to drill them out with a 1.75" Bi-Metal hole saw. Although if your T-bone mount is the cast iron variety I would highly reccomend a drill press. You can totally press the poly bushings into the mount yourself, with just your palms, so there is no need to have a shop do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 :dance::dance: Got all four corners of the TGP bled finally! Have not actually tried to drive the car yet... I still need to do some Tech-1 stuff like bleed the solenoids and check for codes and general PMIII goodness... and maybe bleed the master cylinder a bit too. Too dark out now to do either of those things. Got lots of air and nasty old fluid bled out though, that has got to be a good start... I think the real PITA part is done. Fingers crossed, I ought to be driving this car sometime this week. Yay! Now it's time to die of heatstroke for the evening... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 Finally scanned the PMIII with the Tech-1 and did a solenoid bleed and whatnot. Things seem... okay... I think... ...I think I am very very very close to being able to drive the car again... I cleared any and all old codes before I did anything. I ran the solenoid checkout/bleed test, pedal did all sorts of funky things, test ended. Pressed the pedal a few times to check for pedal feel and stuffs. The accumulator charge appeared to hold for 2 or three pedal presses. Not ideal, but better so far than the original accumulator ever did. Checked the codes and I got a code 4 (Solenoid or drive relay circuit malfunction (FR Fault)) and code 5 (Front Enable Relay coil open)... I still have to look up what might be causing this. Whatever it is the Tech-1 tells me that the ABS is limited to the rear ABS only. It's not totally failing to offer any ABS at all, so that's also already better than before. Now, during all this I noticed that my battery was almost dead and pressing the brake pedal used up like 95% of available power. There was plenty enough power for the Tech-1 to say the PMIII will operate fine... but the battery voltage was way down and obviously that may have affected things. Maybe related to my codes? Or perhaps the codes indicate I need to bleed the fronts better? Or maybe they are telling me something else, I dunno yet... I have not looked it up in the big book yet. Threw the battery charger on... obviously I failed to think that all the bleeding I did this weekend would really suck down the power... I should have known better. LOL DUH! Especially since I did everything with key-on-engine-off and have only idled the engine at all in the past several days to do a quick test for Saar this evening. I'll do further testing tomorrow when the battery actually has a good charge again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 So far, according to the FSM... my ABS codes so far are most likely related to the low battery. That is a relief. I expect the system will work much better when my battery is done charging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 OK... time to stop farting around... it is time to take the TGP for a short drive... this will be the first time she moves in over a year... I am super excited. I am also SUPER NERVOUS... holy crap... I really just need to get in the car and do this... I have learned how to generally keep my anxiety issues under control... but right now I am having difficulty not letting my anxiety control me. I know I'll feel a zillion times better as soon as I get this test drive over with... so what the hell is stopping me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Just sat in the car and started to get the laptop hooked in... after 5 seconds my arms were literally dripping sweat. Yuck. I suppose cracking the windows and letting the interior cool off for a little while is a perfectly cromulent reason to delay this test drive for a little bit longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 (edited) THE TGP LIVES! 1st test drive is complete! Here is the datalog: http://www.smallfiles.org/download/1342/July_2012_1st_test_drive.xdl.html First I let the car warm up until the cooling fan came on. Then I went for a drive. Not very far this time though, just around the block and back to make sure that stuff works right. I have not really looked at the datalog yet... wanted to get the datalog sent to Adam for tuning purposes, and wanted to get this post up here. Everything seems pretty OK though so far. Here are my initial observations... - OMG the poly dogbone bushings transfer a lot of vibration into the cabin. I like it, makes driving the TGP even more exciting! - Idle is only set to like 850RPM... maybe I should talk to Adam about bumping that up for better charging at idle? - PMIII seems to work okay now! Drove it all the way around the block and neither of the brake lights came on! *knock on wood* - Blowing some smoke. 99% sure it's just all the caked on oil and crap that has been living in the exhaust system for the past couple years since the stock turbo blew it's seals. If I reach my fingers into the tailpipes they come out covered in the gunk. I assume it will burn off eventually. Still slams into reverse, although the poly dogbones help contain that. I'm thinking I'll replace the trans mount this evening. Now that the car can be pulled into the garage it should be a snap! So what is a normal oil pressure for me to see?... now that the gauge is working properly I should maybe know what sorts of numbers I should see and when I should see them. Anyone want to educate me on that? Edited July 20, 2012 by Penglii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 850 is too low? i idle all of my cars near or at 600..... and still see a good ~13.8 volts from the alt. normal oil pressure on a LH0 at least is 60PSI when cold, then as the oil warms up, it will drop at any given RPM. i think i saw ~15PSI at it's lowest on the 90GP when at full temp and the fan about to kick on (210*F coolant). TGPs should have similar numbers to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 OK... maybe 850 is A-OK... and looking now at the datalog it seems that I may be getting decent results at that idle speed. It's been an anxious day, so I've been WAY overthinking things. I'm feeling a lot calmer now that I know things are more or less functioning like they should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 just looking at the idle speed "tables" for a few different bins. hit load compare bins and browse for a few different ones; pulled up topgun, Ricks34005speed88gp AC fix, and Rick tgp36lb-3-180tstat (current black tgp bin) and hit the graph display button on the table. the top gun was way low. but more gradual. then goes back up a little before the fan kicks on. he had it set LOW! damn, none of the alternators I am running can even put out a charge at that rpm. at least he bumps it up 25 rpms between 260-280 F. but only to like 825 I have 925 on the black tgp and 950 on the 88. straight across above 90F. the 88 I just bumped up another 25 rpm's last night because I have been running the ac all the time. idles perfect but still working on the occasional hiccup under heavy stress. stress meaning heat combined with load. when I get a weak battery because its 100 degrees hotter than when its fully charged in the garage parked. the car demands the same amount of juice though. so I will get a small dip before the IAC steps recover. way less of a problem than before but I want to eventually find a bulletproof solution so it NEVER stalls. still playing with the NUM OF IAC STEPS FOR FAN 1 scalar. and looking at some of the AC settings and have some experiments lined up. the tgp has this set PERFECT and comparing, I have already passed it up on the 88 but not getting the desired result yet. maybe it's another one of the settings disabling the fuinction. in the process of going through all the AC related stuff and comparing. finding some stuff that has been tweeked and stuff already. going to play with it some more. the THROTTLE FOLLOWER DECAY RATE VS.MPH(WHEN NOT IN P/N) is a fun table to tweek. I had to get pretty agressive with it compared to the top gun. on both cars they are about the same but the black tgp is slightly higher. if you go with too big a change or tweek too many settings the car will do all kinds of weird stuff. so you will have to trash that bin and go back to the previous working one and make small changes. make sure you have all your files organized and backed up and you will be fine. and having lots of fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Cool, that is some good info to have. Right now I'm letting Adam to all the tune tweaking, and the base tune I'm using does not currently have any corrections to it based on actual driving... only idle. Although even right now she seems to drive better than ever, so that's clearly a good sign. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 oh man does it ever make a difference though. its not like every car has the exact same needs either but there is no way I would be able to pull off a 600 rpm idle without my car falling on its face. I would like to see it because then I would be saving gas and fumes would be less bad but then the power steering would not turn those steaks back and forth. and there is way too many electronics that compete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 and there is way too many electronics that compete. *cough cough* PowermasterIII *cough cough* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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