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Penglii's 1989 TGP


Penglii

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once you hacksaw the injectors new grooves for the clips it should fit perfect. it seems like they are leaking (I did the same thing) but the cruise and stuff wouldn't be working if there was a leak. the base tune should make the injectors behave better if nothing else and you get the IAC adjusted good and idle to smooth out. you are way ahead of most guys already because you are good at burning chips and familiar with tunerpro 5.

 

are they actually a different design than the gray bosch injectors though? I am following this thread to see how it turns out because I am still deciding whether to stay 28 or go with 36's in the red tgp. the motor is not built nearly as much as the black one so it may not need that big. just big enough for the disco potato to keep its cool :thumbsup:

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Hacksaw the injectors? IDK what you are talking about, the Accel injectors fit like a glove. The clips fit perfectly. :biggrin:

I'm thinking that the motor will finally run like a champ with properly installed injectors and a good base tune.

 

The OEM injectors were multec 1 style (fat bellied), obviously. The bosh injectors were multec 2 style, long and skinny. The Accel injectors are shaped like the multec 1's but fancy looking.

 

My cruise control module is deleted. It was in my way and I personally don't like/use cruise control. So I can never rely on that to be a vac leak clue. LOL

 

The Accel injectors installed now are seated nicely. The bosh styles would have seated nicely if I tried... but apparently I failed at even really trying to seat them into the LIM, so I know that must have messed with things.

 

I am switching out the 160* t-stat for a 180* one... that should be a sufficient heat increase to allow the tech-1 to run a proper idle relearn, and doing that will ferret out any obvious problems in short order.

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I think I got pics in my thread. of the hack job I did. :lol: if not I need to update it. in the members rides section. *edit: in my pics in the "garage" section of the forum...

 

I seen it somewhere a long time ago. but then adam reminded me to cut new seats for the steel clips that hold the injectors like a half CM up to seat the injectors perfect.

 

 

I went with the 180 with a single small hole drilled through near the side. I tuned the base tune for fan set points that I am still experimenting with. Adam tells me there is a fan door motor of some sort that goes bad on these cars. goes from hot to cold. still have not looked into that. I am worried the heater core corroded and might need replaced because I can hear the motor doing its thing but not getting warm air.

 

my cruise stopped working the other day after I had some battery acid overflow out of my battery and stain the driveway. I was running the subwoofer at high output levels and gave it a workout! anyway, the acid may have corroded the vacuum ball lines or something is what I am guessing since the lines go under it. and I will need a new battery soon. its not too urgent with my dual batteries and stuff but its annoying not having cruise after awhile. don't worry, you can always get it back in or replace it for cheap. pretty common part in the JY.

Edited by Garrett Powered
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LOL that is a lovely hack job!

Yeah, that is the same style as the bosh injectors I was trying to run a couple years ago. I've had to use a hacksaw on plenty of random things, but fuel injectors take the cake! :lol:

 

I got carried away with the drilling and put 2 small holes in my thermostat. Should make bleeding the system plenty easier.

 

Yeah, my cruise control actuator is in my garage.... and I just capped the lines off so it would be easy to re-install if I ever felt like it.

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Deleted the TB heater lines today, feels nice to have that done. I want to hurt the person who invented those squeeze clip hose clamps.

 

Tried to change the oil pressure sender... cant get my oil pressure sender socket to fit. The body of the unit is just too big. I guess that means the sender is the original from 1989. Suppose I'll have to be crafty with some plyers or vice grips or something to get that out of there.

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keep an eye on the new one when you first put it in. I got one that leaked out so much oil out I almost didn't catch it before running the motor dry. that was on my new motor so I got extremely lucky. it was a brand new sender

 

just happened to forget something and turned around to see a trail of oil all the way back and a puddle in the garage.

 

just a little ironic.

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keep an eye on the new one when you first put it in. I got one that leaked out so much oil out I almost didn't catch it before running the motor dry. that was on my new motor so I got extremely lucky. it was a brand new sender.

 

Good call! The one I got has some thread putty already applied... should I use some PFTE tape as well? Or just make sure it's good and tight and not leaking?

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I guess its pretty common for those senders to be defective and leak out of the plug. I am still kind of shocked at the amount mine leaked. a pretty hefty stream of oil and the threads weren't the problem. it sucked.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pulled the stock coolant bottle out this evening... yuck that thing was gross.

 

Given the sludge I poured out of the bottom, I guess I am gonna change the coolant this weekend...

...and I guess I should remove the black paint from the intercooler too while it's out.

 

Got a 88-93 style coolant bottle coming in the mail... so that's gonna be groovy... and my real K&N filter will fit on the turbo now too.

 

Getting closer and closer to starting her up again. :dance:

Edited by Penglii
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OMG I want to cause bodily harm to whomever designed the oil pressure sensor that is on this car.

 

It does not look like the oil pressure sensors they sell as replacements for our cars.

I mean it's obviously still an oil pressure sensor, but it is way badly designed... but it must be the original that was on the car... or something.

 

I'd take a picture, but I cannot wedge my camera down there to get a picture.

 

I cannot get an oil pressure switch socket on it... whoever designed the body made it a larger diameter than the wrench fitting part. :cussing:

I was able to get it most of the way out with a vice grip... maybe 1/10th of a turn at a time.

Then it came apart internally... the metal barrel that I was gripping just spins on it's own now.

 

OMG there has to be only like 3 threads left too.

But no way to turn it.

 

Holy crap it is not fun to reach into that spot to do things.

 

Got a 1-1/16" crowsfoot socket scheduled to be in my mailbox on Friday... until then the oil pressure sensor has won.

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OMG I want to cause bodily harm to whomever designed the oil pressure sensor that is on this car.

 

It does not look like the oil pressure sensors they sell as replacements for our cars.

I mean it's obviously still an oil pressure sensor, but it is way badly designed... but it must be the original that was on the car... or something.

 

I'd take a picture, but I cannot wedge my camera down there to get a picture.

 

I cannot get an oil pressure switch socket on it... whoever designed the body made it a larger diameter than the wrench fitting part. :cussing:

I was able to get it most of the way out with a vice grip... maybe 1/10th of a turn at a time.

Then it came apart internally... the metal barrel that I was gripping just spins on it's own now.

 

OMG there has to be only like 3 threads left too.

But no way to turn it.

 

Holy crap it is not fun to reach into that spot to do things.

 

Got a 1-1/16" crowsfoot socket scheduled to be in my mailbox on Friday... until then the oil pressure sensor has won.

 

Can you get at it from underneath the car?

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Can you get at it from underneath the car?

 

Negative... I can see the threads nicely from underneath the car, that's how I know I'm painfully close to having it removed.

I could also use a oil pressure socket from below... but I can't use the socket.

 

In order to have any useful reach from above I had to drain the rad and remove the lower rad hose.

But that allowed me to use the vice grips until that stopped working.

 

I think the crowfoot socket is the ticket... I just have to wait until it gets here.

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Some brands what don't fit?

 

I think I bought a socket that didn't fit the sender one time... well maybe it was the O2, I can't remember. crows foot are the way to go I bet. that's what I use for the O2 sensor anyway. what I did for the oil sender I think is just return it and then borrow one from my friend's shop.

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Yeah, oil filter is off.

 

The oil pressure wrench I have is a perfect fit for the new oil pressure sensor I have, so no issues there.

 

I think this sensor I am having issues with must have been designed for a crowsfoot... since the barrel end is obviously a little larger than the hex nut.

 

I'm sure I'll get it... but I absolutely did not expect this amount of trouble!

Nothing more fun than spinning a sensor for a half hour at least before realizing it's not moving. :lol:

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Wow dude you are one patient MOFO, i just read through all 24 pages of this thread, it was a fun little story, it felt like reading a book :)

Good luck on the oil pressure sender, I changed one once, but the engine was out of the car so it was pretty easy :P

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Thanks man! It's been quite the adventure so far.

Not over yet either. LOL

 

Got the crowsfoot, cant get it on the sensor. WTF?

It's hacksaw time... I think I can reach in there well enough to cut off the big end and slide a wrench on that way.

This will be the third time I've had to use a hacksaw in this engine bay. :lol:

If that does not work then I'll have to modify the crowsfoot somehow.

 

When I finally get this damn sensor off the car, I will take some pictures and then promptly throw the pieces into the wisconsin river. :flamingdevil:

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