RobertISaar Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 well, at least i receive some good news today.... that revision has a perfectly functioning RPM X 50 value, so now you could spin it up to 8400 RPM if you wanted to, not that i recommend it. as i expected, it's running a bit lean(not very much either from the looks of it, about 4%, unless the conversion is off for the ADX, you have a link to the manual or anything like that to double check?), i'm definitely going to turn down the prop steps to get the AFR swings a little less violent as well, at least for tuning, after that, they can be brought back to normal, if desired, for emissions reasons. PENGLII_TGP_26lb_nAst1 1.00.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Ahhh good, I am glad to hear that is finally working! I will load up v1.00 tomorrow, throw in like 7 gallons of fresh gas, and see how she goes around the block again. unless the conversion is off for the ADX, you have a link to the manual or anything like that to double check? I haz factory service manual if that's what you ask... what should I check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 no, the manual for whatever WB controller you're running. i wouldn't expect a HUGE difference, i richened up the fueling a little bit via the injector table(BTW, when you got the 26 pounders, did they come with any transfer sheet showing injector response time vs battery voltage or anything like that?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Oh duh! Yeah... Innovate LC-1 Wideband manual says that 0V=.5λ (AFR of 7.35 for gasoline) and 5.0V=1.523λ (AFR of 22.39 for gasoline). If that's helpful. No, the injectors did not come with such a sheet... nor could I find such helpful data anywhere on the interwebz. All I know about the injectors is they are GM#12561462, that they presumably come from a Corvette Z06 and that they are ~26lb flow at our fuel pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 that little A symbol represents Lambda.... and it looks like the conversion is already correct... i keep thinking the injectors are aftermarket ones, they usually come with a transfer sheet like that... i think i would need to get ahold of someone with a factory LSx BIN and have them read them that way to be 100% certain on those values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 just looked at one of the datalogs. hittin deep into the 14's. looks like the voltage is right on track. good work so far. wideband looked good so far. I will look over the other ones later when I have more time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 i think i would need to get ahold of someone with a factory LSx BIN and have them read them that way to be 100% certain on those values. If it helps, it looks like the injectors I have were the stock injectors in the 2002-2004 Corvette Z06 and the 2001-2002 LS1 F-bodys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 Ahhhhh... well... I suppose I found part of the reason the drivablity was so poor going around the block yesterday... looks like rear brake calipers are seized. How fix? Luck has been on my side up until now, so I have not personally done a brake job on a car in like 13 years and so I don't remember squat... do I gotta learn how to replace the rear calipers now? Or is there something I can just pry on until it releases and be on my merry way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 seized? time for some later rear brakes! ugh.... you probably already have it, but service procedure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 ugh.... you probably already have it, but service procedure? Reading up on that right now... just had to vent first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 (edited) Come to think of it I really should have checked the rear brakes a lot earlier... I have a sneeking suspicion they have been seized since slightly before I parked the car in October. It just has not moved since so I did not give it any thought, somehow the raw fuel dumping out the back distracted me at the time. Sometimes I'm such a dumb-ass...Robert, you are totally right to "ugh" at me for this one!!! Edited April 18, 2011 by Penglii I'm a dumb-ass today... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 18, 2011 Report Share Posted April 18, 2011 my "ugh" is refering to the awful Delco-Moraine rear brake setup for the early Ws... i like my drums, don't ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Fair enough But I still probably deserve an UGH or at least a solid *facepalm* for knowing how awful the rear brakes are on these cars and still not thinking to check if they were seized. I suppose I blamed most of the challanging drive home from work back in October on the busted stock fuel injectors, but the brakes being seized really fills in the blanks now! *facepalm* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Service manual makes changing the rear calipers seem confusing and no fun. I just cannot quite picture what needs to be done and how and using what... I know it's supposed to be reasonably easy-ish... BRAIN FAIL! Maybe it will make more sense later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 its easy, you go over to a 94+ w-body, take the calipers and put them on your car. just got mine done that way. dimpled and grooved rotors too off a scrapped out 95 cutty. direct swap besides the e-brake, but the calipers are huge in comparison. I say just do yourself a huge favor and just do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 i don't remember thinking them being huge in comparison.... at least not by itself. when throwing the caliper bracket into the picture, yeah, it does seem quite large. slightly larger rotors as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 I didn't do it personally, I brought the whole strut assembly from the olds over to him, he swapped over the caliper and the rotor. maybe not huge in comparison, but compared to import front brakes big Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 Yeah..... I thought about doing the 94+ brake upgrade, but I think I will wait. I really just want to get the car finally drivable again. I understand that the upgrade is not difficult... but I is a brakes newb and kinda just want some "normal" brake experience before I dive into modifications. Once the Raybestos Loaded Calipers I picked up eventually (inevitably) fail then I will go 94+. Hopefully I will be spending my Sunday doing the rear brakes and replacing the accumulator. Sucks to be me I haz the PMIII... so I figure this is already gonna take all day to do right... what with the learning curve and all. Question though.. with the rear brakes I know I have to manually bleed the crap out of those (too bad I have no pressure bleeder kit, or pressure source, so the Tech-1 is useless with this part), and thankfully the Tech-1 will assist me with the otherwise PITA solenoid bleed for the accumulator... ... but should I bleed the front calipers too? I know they still work since the car actually came to a stop during my short test drive... but would it be worth the trouble to bleed the old brake fluid from them? Or is it OK to save myself the trouble and flush those another day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 GRRRRRRR... freaking 22 year old accumulator is seized onto the PMIII. Seems like MOAR TORQUE cannot be the answer without totally destroying things. Sprayed some PB Blaster back there as best as I could, gonna let it sit like an hour and try again... hopefully it helps. I guess if it's still stuck then MOAR PB Blaster and let it sit until tomorrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 GRRRRRRR... freaking 22 year old accumulator is seized onto the PMIII. Seems like MOAR TORQUE cannot be the answer without totally destroying things. Sprayed some PB Blaster back there as best as I could, gonna let it sit like an hour and try again... hopefully it helps. I guess if it's still stuck then MOAR PB Blaster and let it sit until tomorrow... What are you using to remove it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
virtuetovice Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 PB Blaster+24 hours= no such thing as seized Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted April 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 What are you using to remove it? Socket, U-joint, extention, 3/8" ratchet. I quit with the muscling when I see the pressure switch start to move... I feel that any more force would be WAY too much and risks damage to the PMIII housing. PB Blaster+24 hours= no such thing as seized I just hope that some of it actually got down by the threads... it's not exactly easy to reach that spot with a can of PB Blaster. I just hosed the crap out of the area (and wiped off as much pooling and overspray as I could reach) and am crossing my fingers that capillary action is my friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 PB Blaster is officially the best thing EVER! Somehow bruised both of my elbows pretty good when the accumulator finally broke loose... but I so don't even care, I'm just so happy to have that 22 year old accumulator out of there and the brand new one is in place. Now I just gotta tackle the rear calipers... here's hoping that goes well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 New rear calipers are in place, so that's good. It was a PITA but not as bad as I feared.... nobody around today to help me bleed them though, so I gotta do that another day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penglii Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Alright... not quite a year since my last post here... but close. Hooray for this unseasonably warm weather! Gonna take another crack at getting the TGP running this year. Pulled the plenum today and installed a set of 26lb Accel injectors. Newer silver bodied style, used but only for ~1000 miles, basically just long enough to guarantee me that they all work correctly... scored 8 of them for just $50! Also found a major clue... when I upgraded to the allegedly 26lb corvette injectors, I apparently epic failed at seating the injectors into the LIM. They were seated in the rail perfectly, but basically just barely pushed into the LIM... I'm sure they were getting crap for a seal. This explains a lot. So I probably did not need to upgrade the injectors, just actually seat them properly... but new Accel injectors... you cannot go wrong. Broke the Coolant Temp Sender beneath the Thermostat housing... so a new one of those is coming from Rockauto. Hopefully a new Vacuum Spider is in the mail as well... assuming this order is not cancelled like my gmpartsdirect order was. Sorry Robert... but I'm also getting a new tune from Adam (flybynite on TGPforums)... so that should be gravy. Once all that comes together I just gotta finally do a full PMIII bleed... ugh, I've been putting that job off for so long... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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