Danspeed1 Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 Well, its in, but it was a pain to get it in. I do have a couple of "issues" that were created as a result, and I was hoping someone could give me some advice. First off, the tie rod was frozen. I got it out with a fork but I destroyed the boot. I am upset because the car was not due for a wheel alignment and I know if I remove the tie rod and replace it, i am going to need one. Is there anyway i can replace the boot or do I need a new tie rod. Also how tight do the cradle/carrier bolts need to be? I had to lower the engine cradle; I'm not sure hot tight to re tighten it. Finally, I put that stupid air tube back on the alternator, but its basically shot/torn up, is it that intricate that it matters? Thanks, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 tie rod boot? you mean CV boot? that air tube is to get more airflow to the alt, something it definitely needs.... i'd try to patch it up/replace it/improve it somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danspeed1 Posted May 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 tie rod boot? you mean CV boot? that air tube is to get more airflow to the alt, something it definitely needs.... i'd try to patch it up/replace it/improve it somehow. Nope, I mean Tie-rod. DG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swift13 Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 you can change a tie rod and get it very close to same without getting an alignment. there is a nut on the inner rod that works as a return point just try and keep that in the same spot but you cant replace it then. and make sure the outers are the same size (should be) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 Just make a note or mark where the tie-rod was before on the inner tie rod threads and you should be fine. As for the cradle bolts, iirc 110 ft-lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 I've been driving 3.4s for 6 years now with that dumb alternator duct removed, you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 just buy a new dust boot for the tie rod if the tie rod socket is still tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danspeed1 Posted May 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 Just make a note or mark where the tie-rod was before on the inner tie rod threads and you should be fine. As for the cradle bolts, iirc 110 ft-lbs. Will do, Thanks! I've been driving 3.4s for 6 years now with that dumb alternator duct removed, you should be fine. Well I actually put it back on but its got holes in part of it and it looks like its a little pinched up in a couple places. I was considering not putting it back on but I figured if I didn't everybody would tell me I should of. just buy a new dust boot for the tie rod if the tie rod socket is still tight. For 215K it seems pretty tight, I wish I could find just the boot but I have no idea where to get it. Also, the new Autozone Tie Rod looks different than the original. Anyone know who sells a boot. Even If I have to order it I can get away with it for a couple days i am sure. Thanks for the replies guys, DG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danspeed1 Posted May 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 Got a new boot from energy suspension. Packed it with grease and put the tie rod back in. Looks like it will hold up alright. I can never tell if these things are bad. They always seem smooth. Sometimes they will feel a little gritty, but never loose as often described. While I had the car apart I also changed the pads, rotors, and oil and I repaired the wheel speed sensor wire, which was next to impossible. Hopefully now i will have my ABS back. DG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted May 15, 2010 Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 Why did you take the tie rod off and lower the cradle? I hope you didn't do this just to change the alternator, cause man it wasn't necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted May 15, 2010 Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 Why did you take the tie rod off and lower the cradle? I hope you didn't do this just to change the alternator, cause man it wasn't necessary. Probably following this- http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/14457-My-45-minute-3.4-DOHC-alternator-repair-Write-Up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted May 16, 2010 Report Share Posted May 16, 2010 Ah!!! now I see. Poor bastard, did it the hard way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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