ismellrealbad Posted September 27, 2003 Report Share Posted September 27, 2003 so i decided to clean my throttle body the other day for the second time because of my cone filter's lack of filtration, and in the process of putting it back on i broke the throttle body gasket and i also may have gunked up the IAC or TPS. i also decidedto bypass the TB heater with some extra hose i had. i drove it anyways regardess of the broken gasket and it had a VERY hard time starting and a rough idle. thinking it was just me being stupid driving with a broken gasket i thought nothing of it and decided i would replace the gasket tomorrow thinking it would solve the problem. it didnt. i baught a new gasket and now its fucked up even worse. i have the symptoms desribed above and when the car is not up to operating temp if i hit the gas any harder than delicate the car bucks, almost stalls then catches and is on its way. this all occurs within maybe .5 to 1 full second so to sum up i cleaned my throttle body and bypassed the heater and i now have: -a no start to very hard starting condition -erratic to slightly hi idle -major hesitation when starting off the line help? thanx. please do not hesitate to call me a fucking idiot to let me know what i may have screwed up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted September 27, 2003 Report Share Posted September 27, 2003 fucking idiot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted September 27, 2003 Report Share Posted September 27, 2003 TPS Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RedCutlassSL Posted September 27, 2003 Report Share Posted September 27, 2003 yeah, TPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted September 27, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2003 well i pulled the IAC off yesterday too to clean it (T20 bit). there was tons of black shit in there and and i got it out, but obviously to no help. would i be able to pull the TPS off too and maybe repair/clean it or is this going to be an expensive sensor to replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted September 27, 2003 Report Share Posted September 27, 2003 well i pulled the IAC off yesterday too to clean it (T20 bit). there was tons of black shit in there and and i got it out, but obviously to no help. would i be able to pull the TPS off too and maybe repair/clean it or is this going to be an expensive sensor to replace? You cant clean or repair the TPS. Its a sealed unit, so you would just have to buy a new one. The reason I said TPS was b/c you said it would stumble on take off, thats a major sign of a bad TPS. I really dont think they are too expensive. You just take the old one off and put the new one on Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 27, 2003 Report Share Posted September 27, 2003 I think you should check your tb gasket for proper mounting, and the vacuum line(s) around there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted September 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2003 Now the car wont start at all. the TPS looks brand new. it looks fine, i dont see how it can be that. what about the IAC? that on the other hand doesnt look in suck good shape. should i not be able to push that little tip in or should that be movable? i also spayed some of the shit right on it to clean it since it was covered in black shit before this pic. if not, do u know what vacuum lines are around there and where they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
per0781 Posted September 28, 2003 Report Share Posted September 28, 2003 Now the car wont start at all. should i not be able to push that little tip in or should that be movable? if not, do u know what vacuum lines are around there and where they are u should be able to move that tip in and out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted September 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2003 well that tip was almost frozen. i replaced the thing, but the car is still kinda fucked. its starts, but not without a lot of cranking/gas pedal pushing. then a bunch of smoke comes out the exhaust for a few seconds. i just dont understand what i could have fucked up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 29, 2003 Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 you cant easily move that tip. Have you checked your TB gasket? What about the vacuum lines going to the map sensor and fuel pressure regulator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted September 29, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 i will check those lines tomorrow....the gasket is *slightly* crooked but i dont see it to be inhibiting airflow in any way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted September 29, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2003 ok i checked those lines. they were fine..... ...what i did find was that my nigger rigged air inlet from my intake ran to the rear PCV. it was sticking out of the valve cover only about 1cm. so i pushed that fucker down in there and the car started right up and all those little problems went away. theres still one though, the car still doesnt start correctly, it takes about an extra second to hold the key down before it catches and starts. has me really confused also my fan turns on VERY late (like 230 235*), what do i do to correct this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bluecutlass Posted September 30, 2003 Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 These engines are very sensitive to correct vacuum and air flows, as they measure alot of things and feed it to the computer, so keep looking at all the connections, as it is hard to move anything in the engine compartment without bumping 4 others. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bluecutlass Posted September 30, 2003 Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 These engines are very sensitive to correct vacuum and air flows, as they measure alot of things and feed it to the computer, so keep looking at all the connections, as it is hard to move anything in the engine compartment without bumping 4 others. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted September 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2003 i dont understand why these things are just able to slide out like that. especially since it is so vital. maybe i should just replace the whole thing? how much do they cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted October 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 anyone? im mainly concerned about my fans...i baught the PCV valve today and am putting it in tomorrow and seeing if that fixes it. was only 5 bucks. so, again.....why are my fans turning on insanely late? what are the possible causes and where would i find whatever is causing the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted October 1, 2003 Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 The first fan is supposed to turn on at 220 and the 2nd at 227, I think. I really dont know why they are turning on late, the CTS the sensor near the T-stat controls them. Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bluecutlass Posted October 2, 2003 Report Share Posted October 2, 2003 The CTS is a resistor type sensor, so if your wires are possibly bare at some spot, and they short, it will send a cooler temp than is really happening, causing the fans to switch erratically, especially if the wires are bouncing around hitting each other. happy hunting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted October 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2003 the reason why i wouldnt think its the CTS is because we just replaced that like 2-3 weeks ago. how would i be able to test out the wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bluecutlass Posted October 4, 2003 Report Share Posted October 4, 2003 If you have ohmmeter, check to see what the resistance of the CTS is, compare it to one in another GM car, or check a manual for what it should read. if it reads in the range suggested, you could use a variable resistor to check the wires and computer, by plugging it in the connector for the cts, and adjusting the resistance until the fans switch on and off. if they switch erratically, it is in the wires or connectors. Make sure you have a good connection, use clips if you have some. If I get a chance, I will read the ohms on my cts, and post it. Good luck. ( you can go to Radio Shack for the variable resistor.) :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted October 4, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2003 a regular multimeter measures ohms if im correct right? if so i think my friend has one. can anyone tell me what the values should read on each wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffcanada Posted October 5, 2003 Report Share Posted October 5, 2003 Why not just install a manual fan switch? It should take a half hour at the most. I did that on my DOHC because the 230 degree stock switch setup is ridiculous and slightly insane. I can now keep my car between 1/4 and 1/2 on the temperature gauge all of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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