jesterx888 Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 I searched and searched but was not able to come up with anything so here we go... When I start the car and get on the freeway (less than 5 min of driving) I hit 70 mph and the rpms are at about 2000. I hold at 70 mph for another minute or so then its like it downshifts and then it hangs out at about 3000 the rest of the time driving. I just changed the filter and fluid last weekend and it still does the same thing. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 30, 2010 Report Share Posted April 30, 2010 try gently pulling up on the brake pedal with your foot while you are at highway speed. your brake/torque converter switch may need adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 Yup, I think I had a thread aboot a month or so ago explaining the situation.. Mine still does this intermittenly. I gotta address it sometime cause its very annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 Yup, I think I had a thread aboot a month or so ago explaining the situation.. Mine still does this intermittenly. I gotta address it sometime cause its very annoying. couple of thin layers of tape on the pedal worked for me... i still can't figure out how to adjust the damn switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 Here's another trying to figure out the problem. Mine does the same thing, although it takes about a 45 minutes of driving before mine will act up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 got a trans cooler? if not, get one...(we almost need a Mr. Bean w/trans cooler smiley...) because i don't know why, but everyone seems to have overheating trans issues lately... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 .(we almost need a Mr. Bean w/trans cooler smiley...) YES!!! I 100% endorse this statement!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 got a trans cooler? if not, get one...(we almost need a Mr. Bean w/trans cooler smiley...) because i don't know why, but everyone seems to have overheating trans issues lately... A good idea, but this isn't our problem here. Jester's transmission is still cold when his issues begin, I have a cooler and never run over 200 degrees even in summer, and I doubt Bob has overheating issues either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterx888 Posted May 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 A good idea, but this isn't our problem here. Jester's transmission is still cold when his issues begin, I have a cooler and never run over 200 degrees even in summer, and I doubt Bob has overheating issues either. I will probably end up getting a cooler sometime but I have other issues that need to be fixed first. I havent really had any reason to suspect my trans overheating yet. I will look into the torque converter switch as well. Thanks everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted May 1, 2010 Report Share Posted May 1, 2010 Jexter, while this problem may be unrelated, don't say that you don't have a reason to suspect your transmission is overheating. Its like the people who figure they don't have a reason to change their fluid until something starts acting up. Preventative maintenance. Don't wait for your transmission to give you a reason to install a cooler. I'm also going to point to the switch being the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterx888 Posted May 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 Jexter, while this problem may be unrelated, don't say that you don't have a reason to suspect your transmission is overheating. Its like the people who figure they don't have a reason to change their fluid until something starts acting up. Preventative maintenance. Don't wait for your transmission to give you a reason to install a cooler. I'm also going to point to the switch being the problem. I dont know what temp the trans is running, I dont have a gauge. I will have to look into a cooler anyway though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterx888 Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Well my trans already has a cooler so I should be good there. Tried lifting up on the brake pedal and it didnt change anything....Any other thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4door Intl Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Fluid level is confirmed as ok? Both incidents of my tranny cooler line slipping off the metal casing were on the highway, and after about two litres pumped out overdrive was gone and the tach climbed to 3000 rpm...it's how I knew to pull over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterx888 Posted May 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Fluid level is confirmed as ok? Both incidents of my tranny cooler line slipping off the metal casing were on the highway, and after about two litres pumped out overdrive was gone and the tach climbed to 3000 rpm...it's how I knew to pull over. Fluid level is definitely good. It was good when I first got the car and noticed the problem, Then I replaced the filter and fluid and added Lucas and it still does the same thing. Fluid is still good also. I dont have any trans leaks. It just seems like after a minute or 2 of driving it shifts out of overdrive and wont shift back into it and i dont know enough about auto trans to know what would cause this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocketman Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Had an issue with my TCC lockup...clipped the PWM wire for the pwm solenoid...details in this thread here: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/45252-Lockup-Issues-once-warm? 1995 transmissions seem to have an issue with that particular solenoid? Make sure its not in limp mode, manual downshift to third would result in a downshift, if its already in 3rd then this isn't your issue. Hope it helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Had an issue with my TCC lockup...clipped the PWM wire for the pwm solenoid...details in this thread here: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/45252-Lockup-Issues-once-warm? 1995 transmissions seem to have an issue with that particular solenoid? Make sure its not in limp mode, manual downshift to third would result in a downshift, if its already in 3rd then this isn't your issue. Hope it helps I ENDORSE THE PWM WIRE CLIP METHOD. that + cooler and your tranny might work fine... past that come back and detail the issue for further diagnoses. My 95 apparently had a bad solenoid that would quit when hot(another member documented this too). And yet another member(Buick bob??) had a bad or maladjusted Neutral safety switch that kept O/D from working. The brake switch, if it in the simple: can usually just be pushed in and out as the tangs that hold it allow it to be forced. If necessary, you can unhook the wires and screw it in or out if it does not budge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterx888 Posted May 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 Does anyone have any pics of the pwm harness and which wire to clip for sure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 the brown wire in position C of the round 7 position trans connector is for PWM operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterx888 Posted May 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 the brown wire in position C of the round 7 position trans connector is for PWM operation. Sweet thank you. Is this on the back side of the trans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 8, 2010 Report Share Posted May 8, 2010 should be roughly under your airbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted May 9, 2010 Report Share Posted May 9, 2010 Just remove the wire from the trans connector, there's no need to actually cut it. It literally takes a few seconds to unplug the connector, take it apart, and remove a wire from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterx888 Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Well, I disconnected the brown wire at pin C and now my check engine light is on.... I didnt have time to see if it fixed my trans issue so I will see how it acts when I go to work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 I was considering doing this. What advantage is there to clipping this wire if your trans is working fine? I'd rather not have an SES light though. That's flat out annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 instead of having the TCC apply smoothly, it just instantly grabs. the older, non-PWM trannies had an accumulator to try and soften the engagement... didn't always work too well.:laugh: i've found that with the right lock/unlock settings, it can be AS smooth as PWM operation, you just have to have less throttle into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 instead of having the TCC apply smoothly, it just instantly grabs. the older, non-PWM trannies had an accumulator to try and soften the engagement... didn't always work too well.:laugh: i've found that with the right lock/unlock settings, it can be AS smooth as PWM operation, you just have to have less throttle into it. Isn't that bad for the transmission? I thought you wouldn't want it to just grab instantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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