1990lumina Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Like the title says. The Lumina is leaking like a sive lately and I need to replace that O ring where the distributor would go on the dumby shaft for the oil pump. I thought there was a write up on here - but I can't get the search to give me any results at all. Mainly I just need to know what parts I will need, and how do you pop the plug out which you get to it. I will be doing this after work in my garage at home. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitzel Posted April 13, 2010 Report Share Posted April 13, 2010 (edited) 1990lumina: Remove power. Bleed fuel rail open air cleaner remove air filter remove air cleaner bottom assembly. remove intake breather pipe remove intake pipe from throttle body. remove pipe clamps from throttle body anti-ice circuit. remove vacuum lines from throttle body remove fuel pedal clips from throttle body unbolt throttle body unbolt fuel lines from fuel rail remove fuel pipe mounting bracket bolt. The oil pump drive unit should now be clearly visible. Just take a pair of vice grip pliars, or channel locks, grasp it, and give a good twist and tug. It'll come out. Replace with a new oil pump shaft drive o-ring. Install a chevy distributor gasket between the engine block and the shaft drive. Put some RTV on the gasket to seal it up. Replace everything, top up the coolant, follow the bleed procedure to its letter, and you should be good. One warning -- sometimes the oil leakage is caused by a combination of a failing lower intake manifold gasket *and* the o-ring on the pump shaft drive. If you're in there, you might to look into doing the LIM, since you have half the job done already through this dissassembly. Good luck! The pipe clamps on the throttle body (for anti-icing) is the most thoroughly annoying part of the job, and you might want to have a section of pipe on-hand to replace the pipe and/or the clamps. All the usual precautions apply concerning the fuel system, and make darn sure that you do not misplace the o-rings on the fuel pipes that help keep the whole thing sealed up. And you'll have to disconnect the throttle position sensor and the idle air controller as well (might not be a bad time to give the IAC a good cleaning!). Edited April 13, 2010 by pitzel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 http://www.60degreev6.com/content.php/32-Oil-Pump-Drive-Quick-Fix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted April 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 Thanks guys. I got it all apart tonight in about 30mins. I more so just wanted to make sure I had all parts on hand before taking it apart. I am 99% sure if it only this O ring leaking so I'm NOT going to take the LIM off and regasket it. The car is getting sold right after I get it back together so it can be someone else's problem later down the road. I just want the oil to stop leaking for now. Thanks again for the pointers. I should have done this last year when I did the injectors when I noticed it was starting to seep. Oh well. The gear on the shaft and the gear on the cam are both worn too lol..time to get rid of this car - I'm scared of what else is worn inside the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitzel Posted April 20, 2010 Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 (edited) Wear on that gear? Mind taking a photo or something? That's just weird. Hard to imagine such. Unless it didn't get oil changes or had seriously bad oil in it. How old is it anyways? I remember you PM'ed me when you got it at like 160,000km or so, give or take, maybe 5-6 years ago? Good luck getting anything for the car. My Cutlass Supreme (180k km's) just got totalled off by SGI, and I settled for $2100 (minus deductible, of course), so I'm sure your Lumina is probably down in the $1500 range given its age, and that, its a Lumina. Bought it back, and am just in the process of doing the bodywork on it to put it back on the road. May as well keep it and drive it into the ground unless your other cars suit you well. You had an injector problem? How'd that happen? Yeah, if you were doing injectors, basically, you had 99% of the above basically done at the same time. Lol. Edited April 20, 2010 by pitzel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted April 20, 2010 Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 I suggest double gasketing the seal, which is to use the brown silicone rubber O-ring from a dealer, and a paper gasket at the top. you can make one, or ask for one for a Chevy 6 cylinder from 1980... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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