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HALP! Something is fuxored with my brakes!


tornado_735

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Well, I disassembled my rear passenger caliper to grease up the slides. They need it.

 

The problem is that out of curiosity, I stepped on the brake pedal (with the rear brake line disconnected) to see what the fluid looks like, and I got nothing. No fluid, not even a drop.

 

I now know why I have non-working brakes in the rear.

 

What would cause this?!? Why am I getting no brake pressure to the rear lines?

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Is my master cylinder dead? FUUUUUUUUUUUUU

 

possibly... or there's something stuck in your brakeline that won't allow fluid to pass through... but that would cause bulging/exploding brakelines....

 

how many times did you hit the brake pedal?

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possibly... or there's something stuck in your brakeline that won't allow fluid to pass through... but that would cause bulging/exploding brakelines....

 

how many times did you hit the brake pedal?

 

Well I went back out, and tried it with the engine running. I am still getting no fluid whatsoever. I pumped the shit out of them, and nothing. No exploding lines either, at least that I could see. :uhaul:

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try the other side... i wonder if the proportioning valve is sending all the fluid to the front...

 

you know what, check every corner. get that out of the way now and we might have a clearer picture of WTF is happening...

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It's the same as it was when I did the brakes last May. The driver side rear is getting no fluid either.

 

The fronts have to be getting fluid just fine, because I am able to stop, and I have brake dust all over both of the front wheels.

 

Where is the proportioning valve? Inside the master cylinder? :think:

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(with the rear brake line disconnected)

That's a very important piece of info.

Summary: You should get a pressure bleeder. You might or might not be able to bleed a rear line without one.

With an open brake line, you are very likely not to get any brake fluid out. You'd likely get one shot of brake fluid. After that, it's very unlikely that you'd get any brake fluid out again.

 

 

What happens is that after the first pump, air is then sucked into the brake line. So, after that, you always "pushing/pulling" air.

 

Also, it can be very hard/impossible to do the initial bleed of a rear brake line with just the "one man/bleeder screw method". And, the vacuum bleeders, speedi bleeders, one man container solutions are ~70% snake oil. Yea, they work for some people. And, some people win millions in the lottery. So, why aren't you putting all of your paycheck towards buying lottery tickets? ;) Well, for the same reason that professionals don't use those snake oil solutions. :)

 

You may or may not be able to bleed the rear brake line now with the bleeder screw method, or one of the snake oil methods. There are many variables! In the past, I had an ~80% chance of being to to bleed a rear brake line without a pressure bleeder. So, it's not hopeless. But, no guarantees.

 

 

BTW: The links are old in the following tech article.

coed_runners.gif For information on Bleeding Brakes, see:

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/brakes/bleeding.html

 

 

You can now get the speedibleed system at:

http://www.speedibleed.com/

 

I've had and used my KD Pressure Bleeder Model# 2222 for ~7+ years now

.K&D_PressureBleeder-Pic01.jpg

 

 

 

Good Luck!

Edited by Cutlass350
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i bought a $15 vacuum pump from autozone that worked damn good until i broke the face of the vacuum guage and started losing the adapters... that was a damn good investment.

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Unless you car is PM3 equipped (89-91 with ABS) then you have a proportioning valve under the car mounted on the drivers side rear seat floorboard.

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Unless you car is PM3 equipped (89-91 with ABS) then you have a proportioning valve under the car mounted on the drivers side rear seat floorboard.

 

 

Got a pic???

 

Im yet to see one on any of my ABS Ws

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Well, I need to grease up the slides on the driver side rear caliper. Weird thing is that the parking brake works a whole lot better now.

 

I think I am going to stick a new, non abs master cylinder on there. Then we'll see where I stand.

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I believe Matt is saying that ONLY PMIII cars have a external prop valve for rear brakes.

 

disconnect the brake hoses from the lines and see if you get anything out of them. if not I would suspect something in your mater is screwed up.

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I believe Matt is saying that ONLY PMIII cars have a external prop valve for rear brakes.

 

disconnect the brake hoses from the lines and see if you get anything out of them. if not I would suspect something in your master is screwed up.

 

Thanks for reminding me, I forgot to mention I was going to do that before replacing the master.

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  • 2 months later...

Update!

 

Well, I know I need new rear calipers. That's a fact.

 

But, tonight I decided to pull the lines going to the rear brakes off at the ABS pump, and see if I could get any fluid out of the pump.

 

I had my girlfriend step on the pedal with the line to the right rear off. She got the pedal almost all the way down before I got any fluid out of it. I replaced the line, and had her repeat with the left rear line disconnected. Not a drop.

 

So it would appear that something inside either my master or the ABS pump is screwed. :mad:

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