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Turn Signal Switch


pitzel

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My turn signal switch doesn't work so well, and I have to take the car through inspection as insurance declared it a total loss (they're giving me more than enough to repair it though once everything's said and done!).

 

Either I can pull the steering wheel and bend the contacts back yet again -- or I can go out and buy a new turn signal switch (~$110 from Rockauto for the D6274 part).

 

How long would a new turn switch 'last' before it has problems again?

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Buy the new switch and put it in. A bad turn signal switch can effect more than just your turn signals, it can screw with your brake lights as well. If you plan on driving the car regularly from now on, I'd say its worth the peace of mind to replace it. Look, you're gonna have to tear apart the wheel anyway, so why not just replace it? I'd say its worth whatever the cost to know that all of your lights are working properly (provided you have no other issues) and not risk someone slamming into you for not seeing a light, or a cop pulling you over for it.

 

As far as how long they last... I think that is near impossible to gauge. There are too many factors that could go into it.

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I wouldn't really worry about longevity. It'll probably only last longer than the original one. The one I put in the my old Lumina still worked great until the car's end.

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Argh! I have the thing apart, and it appears that there are some optical data receivers (from the steering-wheel-mounted radio and A/C controls!) that have a seperate harness and connector, that just plugs into a seperate system altogether :(.

 

Anyone ever seen this on a 1992 Cutlass Supreme?

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Argh! I have the thing apart, and it appears that there are some optical data receivers (from the steering-wheel-mounted radio and A/C controls!) that have a seperate harness and connector, that just plugs into a seperate system altogether :(.

 

Anyone ever seen this on a 1992 Cutlass Supreme?

 

RSWC (Redundant Steering Wheel Controls) require a special turn signal switch. It is more expensive. You can just got with a regular switch if you want, but you won't be able to use the RSWC anymore.

 

Standard part number TW60

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RSWC (Redundant Steering Wheel Controls) require a special turn signal switch. It is more expensive. You can just got with a regular switch if you want, but you won't be able to use the RSWC anymore.

 

Standard part number TW60

 

Yeah I know about the more expensive part (it has the optical receivers built-in). But it doesn't even seem to be to be right either.

 

What fails in these switches anyways?

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Yeah I know about the more expensive part (it has the optical receivers built-in). But it doesn't even seem to be to be right either.

 

What fails in these switches anyways?

 

The metal contacts are thin and wear through.

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I KNOW.

 

The area of failure it the visible contact arms that you can see bend. The issue is usually tarnish on the contact area, or a loss of tension by the contact arms. These earlier square column switches are often not bad, but rather they just need servicing to restore them to fully functional. The first step is to examine the switch. this requires column disassembly, and a close inspection of all parts. If the switch contacts are worn through, or the switch has smoked and melted the plastic around the contacts, the switch is damaged and should be discarded. If an inspection reveals that things appear to be ok, time to try fixing it: Dismantle the assembly and clean out all grease residue from both the tabs and the main switch body where the tabs move. then I take and scrub the contact area of the TSS with a pencil eraser to remove all tarnish and corrosion. Next I apply a Silicone/Dielectric Grease and coat it over the contact area. Silicone grease is stable to near 300 degrees, so it makes an excellent electrical coating. Now take the movable portion of the assembly and bend the contact arms to increase the amount of pressure they apply. grease the complete contact arm and reassemble the switch. get help from a friend or a mirror(!) and test for functionality.

You must test:

left turn signal on, only

right turn signal on, only

brake light on, only

left turn signal on AND brake on only

right turn signal on AND brake on only

REMEMBER: the signal may perform some functions, but not all. If it does not perform all functions is still does not work.

 

 

unlike the 94+ saginaw (round) column which have virtually the same switch whether on not the have SWRC(the difference is a pigtail that can be depinned and swapped to another switch), the TSS on the 88-93+94 lumina have a seriously difference configuration depending on if they have SWRC or not. This probably stems from the fact that the original switches were probably designed before SWRC was an idea.

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Okay... I'll have to get myself some silicone dielectric grease, and some electronics cleaner and give it a go. The hardware doesn't look like its worn at all.

 

The main problem is that only one of the brake lights illuminates (drivers-side), and the turn signals do not turn on unless i pull the stalk towards me.

 

Normally this wouldn't be a problem (as I can, and have been, applying a light amount of pressure on the turn stalk to get it to work), but I have to get the vehicle through a provincial (state) inspection, and they won't likely let the one-brake-light thing slide.

 

Arghh!

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yes, it sounds like increasing the spring pressure, cleaning, and lubricating may fix your problem.

 

In my car, I actually installed LED indicators in the rear 3rd brakelight housing that tell me if the circuits are getting powered.... one for the brake, left, and right signals. I can verify if and when they are working now.

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yes, it sounds like increasing the spring pressure, cleaning, and lubricating may fix your problem.

 

In my car, I actually installed LED indicators in the rear 3rd brakelight housing that tell me if the circuits are getting powered.... one for the brake, left, and right signals. I can verify if and when they are working now.

 

Awesome, I never thought about trying to adjust the spring, so thanks a ton for reminding me.... Bought some silicon grease and some electronics cleaner, so will have a shot at it just as soon as the dust storm lets up in a couple days... :(

 

Can barely even see out there, its so dark from all the dust :(.

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Woah, using the eraser really worked wonders in cleaning stuff up. The contacts, especially on the switch base side (the stationary side, not the bendable side) were very dirty. Stretching out the spring that holds the ball bearing in place also stiffened up the whole assembly. So keeping my fingers crossed that the other half of my brake lights will be back :).

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