96oldsmobubble Posted March 25, 2010 Report Posted March 25, 2010 I have the backend of my Cutlass apart to do some repairs. While I am back here, I took my rear pads in to be replaced (LT warranty) for some new ceramic Wagners and thought I might want to replace or rebuild the old calipers. How feasible is it to rebuild these calipers compared to just buying the rebuilt ones? Any tips on rebuilding these? The old ones worked great, I had replaced the pads and replaced boots, sliders etc. in these last around 30,000 miles ago and wear is pretty even on both sides of the rotor. Is removing the piston and reinstalling a painless operation? In the long run it would end up costing around $50 to buy everything needed to rebuild the rear caliper pair compared to $140 for a pair of remans with new hardware. Does anyone have tips on rebuilding these rear calipers? thank you, Tim Quote
BXX Posted March 25, 2010 Report Posted March 25, 2010 I have the backend of my Cutlass apart to do some repairs. While I am back here, I took my rear pads in to be replaced (LT warranty) for some new ceramic Wagners and thought I might want to replace or rebuild the old calipers. How feasible is it to rebuild these calipers compared to just buying the rebuilt ones? Any tips on rebuilding these? The old ones worked great, I had replaced the pads and replaced boots, sliders etc. in these last around 30,000 miles ago and wear is pretty even on both sides of the rotor. Is removing the piston and reinstalling a painless operation? In the long run it would end up costing around $50 to buy everything needed to rebuild the rear caliper pair compared to $140 for a pair of remans with new hardware. Does anyone have tips on rebuilding these rear calipers? thank you, Tim If your wear is pretty even, then I wouldnt mess with a full rebuild. Just replace the boots and sliders if that makes you feel more comfortable. Even though a good slide cleaning and lube should work., Theres not much to rebuilding the calipers, just remember the pistons screw in, which means they screw out. Just make sure not to knick the piston or the piston bore. I have a spare set of calipers in my garage, I was gonna tear them down and make a how to thread on rebuilding them. I just dont feel like doing it right now (just got off work) Quote
96oldsmobubble Posted March 26, 2010 Author Report Posted March 26, 2010 Scooter that would be awesome if u could do a writeup on the r and r of these calipers. I went ahead and purchased the bolts and sliders, boots and clips and the piston rebuild kit this morning. When I looked in my Haynes manual to see what the deal is, they don't cover the 96 and up rear caliper tear down and rebuild. They recommend buying new or remans. I have the box tool used with a 3/8 ratchet to screw the pistons out, do they come completely out this way? Any special tools I will need otherwise? Also why do the new brake hoses have metal line in them and my old ones are solid rubber? Is this a new revised version or all the parts stores smokin crack? Thanks again Tim Quote
96oldsmobubble Posted March 26, 2010 Author Report Posted March 26, 2010 Just as I suspected on the crack smokin, part stores list 95 and down brake hoses for 1996, I looked up a 1997 Cutlass Supreme and BAM! there is my hoses! Makes you wonder Quote
Crazy K Posted March 26, 2010 Report Posted March 26, 2010 Just as I suspected on the crack smokin, part stores list 95 and down brake hoses for 1996, I looked up a 1997 Cutlass Supreme and BAM! there is my hoses! Makes you wonder ???for gen 1 rears it should be: 88 only 89-93 interchange only. 94-97 interchange only Quote
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