HOW TO - Front Adjustable Coilovers w/ Camber-Caster Adjustable Mounts - Pics!!

[BXX]

Ok, this will be a 2-part how to. The 1st part here will be what you need, and how to do it with what is currently available. 2nd part will be the removal of the stock strut assy and install of the coilover assy. The removal and install will follow in a week or 2 when I get around to installing them. It will have pictures and step by step with what tools you need and exactly how to do it.

 

Here goes.

 

For front coilovers there isnt any option anymore such as Held or whatnot. Luckily, Mark aka dohcv6 makes custom solid mounts with camber/caster adjustment for coilovers. However, currently he had wrong measurements for the stock strut so I was sent wrong mounts. However, they can easily be made to work and will work better as in the future swapping over to Koni strut inserts wont involve getting different mounts (they will use what I currently have which is what he currently can make and ship to you in no time)

 

BTW, the VW strut insert im using will work fine!! However being lowered its lifespan will be decreased like any stock strut that is lowered. Luckily, Koni makes a univeral insert that has the same dimensions!!

 

I will also update all the part numbers and where to get them prolly tomorrow evening.

 

Parts-

 

 

 

2- modified stock strut housings. Lower spring bearing perch and the shield thingy ground off

2- Overkill Engineering Motorsports mounts (Mark's company)

2- Struts (not OE!) these are from older VWs Gabriel part number G44763

2- 14mm strut thin strut nuts (hardware store, take strut to match thread)

2- 2.5" diameter 12" long coilover springs. I use QA1 300lb. Hyperco is the best though

2- Adjuster sleeves from A1Racing

2- Adjuster nuts from A1racing

2- Coilspring Tophats from A1Racing

2- 2.5" diameter Torrington bearings

2- washers. 3/4" diameter inner hole. The outside as big as possible so it still fits in the strut tube (hardware store)

1- Energy Suspension kit - PN 9.9106r (You want these just for the sleeve! Hardware stores wont have anything close)

1- Locktite (for the strut nuts)

 

Now that we got all the parts. You do need to modify a few things first. The mounts come with a lower bearing spacer. Goes between the strut mount and the top hat. It has a 1/2" center hole. Drill this out to 9/16". Yes, the top part that goes into the bearing will be drilled away in the process. That is perfect.

 

You need to take the tophats and drill them out to 3/4" and the waller them out a bit so it goes on the strut rod itself and fits snug.

 

Take the ES bushing kit. Highjack a sleeve. Cut off 2 peices about 1/4" long. Grind them flat (square off the cut) and take them down to about .200". And if you want, file the outside a bit to bring the O.D. down a bit (adds about another 1 degree of bearing travel. I did this just because) That sleeve will act as a spacer between the bearing and strut nut.

 

Also, throw away the existing strut nuts (or save them) and get 2 new nuts that are much thinner. they are 14mm (not sure of thread pitch) you can get them from a hardware store. Take the strut with to match up the thread. I actually used nuts from outer tie rods ive put on cars at work (They come with jam nuts but I never replace them unless the old one is trashed)

 

Next, the assembly begins!!

[BXX]

And the assembly of the coilover.

 

Insert large washer into strut tube. It spaces the strut up enough and also helps center it as well.

 

 

Slide on adjuster sleeve and nut

 

 

Take centering ring that comes with new struts and put it on the new strut. Throw away the other hardware, its not needed.

 

 

 

Slide strut in.

 

 

Put on stock strut retaining nut.

 

 

Tighten the bejesus out of it!! Mmmm, Knipex Cobra-Grip pliers!!

 

 

Take torrington bearing and slide on lower adjuster nut

 

 

 

Slide spring on.

 

 

Slide on tophat. Should fit snug. Just a little bit of the strut rod showing through

 

 

Take the lower spacer you drilled out to 9/16" and put on.

 

 

 

Take coilover mount and slide on.

 

 

 

Next followed by the upper spacer you cut from the ES bushing sleeve

 

 

 

Apply a bit of loctite. I used the red stuff (yeah, it wont come loose!!) and thread on nut.

 

 

 

Using backup wrench on the top stud, tighten the hell outta the top nut!

 

 

And your done with this part. Sit back, enjoy the fruits of your labor and fap some if you want to as well

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More to come!!!

 

 

 

 

[Addicted to eaton]

i am VERY intersted in this. how much is this going to cost in the end? How much drop would this be? Yes i am STUPID when it comes to struts/suspension. But im learning.

[BXX]

I will tally the cost up maybe tomorrow. Depends on how I feel (work 10 hour days, and drive and hour to get there and an hour back makes for long workdays )

 

 

Not sure on the drop yet. I have a feeling I may need 10inch springs instread of the 12inch. Wont know until I get them on and see how much adjustment there is. 12inch may work for most, but I will be tucking the tires So I may have to get 10 inch springs.

[BXX]

Ok, Prices and Parts. Take into account im listing the spring I used. You will or may use a different one. Rate is up to you and Hyperco is the best but is twice the price of QA1. I personally have no issues with my QA1 springs

 

www.a1racing.com

 

-Coilover Sleeves PN# COK12452-H $18.80/each

-Coilover Adjuster Nuts PN# COK12460 $12.87/each

-Coilover Top Hats PN# COK12470 $12.54/each

 

www.summitracing.com

 

-QA1 Coilover Spring PN# HAL-12-325 $37.88/each

-QA1 Torrington Bearings PN# HAL-7888-109 $25.95/kit

 

www.overkillengineeringmotorsports.com

 

-OEM Adjustable Strut Mounts PN# CandCPlate $229.99/set

 

www.autozone.com

 

-VW Strut Insert PN# G44763 $35.99/each

-ES Flange Bushing PN# 9.9106r $8.99/kit

 

www.pullapart.com

 

-Stock Strut Housings/Modified PN# pullemyourselfslacker $32.08/each

 

miscellaneous hardware

 

-14mm Strut Nuts PN# unknown $0.00/each

-3/4" ID hole, thick fender washer PN# unknown $1.09/each

-Loctite, Red or Blue PN# unknown $0.00

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Total Cost $567.43 + tax on some items

[Venom]

mmmmmmmm sounds like so much fun and money!!! At least I save a few bucks on front housings and one coil over hat LOL. Waiting to hear back from Mark on the mounts.

[BXX]

mmmmmmmm sounds like so much fun and money!!! At least I save a few bucks on front housings and one coil over hat LOL. Waiting to hear back from Mark on the mounts.

 

Yeah, I got ya man!! Once I do the swap, I can test out that sweet new compressor with my air hammer and die grinder and get the housings ready for ya.

 

And I dont wanna hear about the money mister $600 in ps3 stuff!

[BXX]

And for the love of god mods, please sticky this thread

 

And dig up my last one for the rears or should I just make one huge front and rear coilover thread that will be stickied??

[3.1cutlass]

I want to do front an rear coilovers maybe this year if not next. Though if i go any lower i think the front tire would hit the front fender.

[mra32]

I want to do front an rear coilovers maybe this year if not next. Though if i go any lower i think the front tire would hit the front fender.

 

Somehow I'm good in that department and I've got some awesome mexi-poke going on with my wheels and tires

[Robby1870]

And for the love of god mods, please sticky this thread

 

And dig up my last one for the rears or should I just make one huge front and rear coilover thread that will be stickied??

 

Thanks for doing this, it looks very thorough. I think it would be best to keep a front thread separate from a rear thread. Otherwise there would be too much to sift through to find what you wanted. I'll try and find your rear thread.

 

EDIT: I looked for it, couldn't find anything I thought was what you were talking about. I did move your OBD1.5 to OBD2 swap thread to the FAQ.

[BXX]

And for the love of god mods, please sticky this thread

 

And dig up my last one for the rears or should I just make one huge front and rear coilover thread that will be stickied??

 

Thanks for doing this, it looks very thorough. I think it would be best to keep a front thread separate from a rear thread. Otherwise there would be too much to sift through to find what you wanted. I'll try and find your rear thread.

 

EDIT: I looked for it, couldn't find anything I thought was what you were talking about. I did move your OBD1.5 to OBD2 swap thread to the FAQ.

 

Thanks Robby. Ill dig up my rear coilover thread, just for reference and then make a new one with everything not scattered over several pages.

 

 

And for those who may not realize, the actual mount goes on top of the strut tower from my understanding which requires it to me installed with the knuckle assy in the car.

[GTP091]

I used the same A1 racing parts for my rear coilovers. The rear upper OEM mounts allowed for movement of the strut assembly on my rear setup. I can`t see how this setup allows for slight camber movement from the control arm. I`m sure it will work but it looks like fatigue cracks could show up in the camber plate as the little lower spacer rocks back and forth on it. Or is this built right into the camber plate mount and I just can`t see it.

[BXX]

I used the same A1 racing parts for my rear coilovers. The rear upper OEM mounts allowed for movement of the strut assembly on my rear setup. I can`t see how this setup allows for slight camber movement from the control arm. I`m sure it will work but it looks like fatigue cracks could show up in the camber plate as the little lower spacer rocks back and forth on it. Or is this built right into the camber plate mount and I just can`t see it.

 

Im using stock mounts in the rear too. My rear coilover how to thread shows that stocks ones can be used. almost 2 years with them with no issues.

 

However, the front plate does allow for movement, hence why there is a spherical bearing there.

[BXX]

Oh, and these are going on the car tomorrow night!!!

 

I will include pics and step by step install

[GTP091]

 

Im using stock mounts in the rear too. My rear coilover how to thread shows that stocks ones can be used. almost 2 years with them with no issues.

 

However, the front plate does allow for movement, hence why there is a spherical bearing there.

 

The torrington bearing allows for the steering movement on the bottom adjuster nut. This spherical bearing you mention is located in the camber plate itself then?? Are you able to show a close up of the bearing before you mount the assembly in the car?? Im looking at doing front coil overs to match my rear very soon but want to make sure there is enough movement at the top to allow for camber changes as the arm moves up and down otherwise crack, snap, crash...

[BXX]

The spherical bearings pictured here in a pic I already posted.

 

[BXX]

The bearing has enough movement, it allows for 9*. Your suspension isnt gonna move near that much under jounce and rebound.

[dohc v6]

Looks good. Putting mine on very soon.

 

Mark

[dohc v6]

This is our factory 5 speed on Koni coilovers all the way around. Sits nice.

 

[white4d96]

I like that stance

[BXX]

lol Mark just recently put his on, I took mine off:lol: