Rack Problem

[Mysteriphys]

Hey, I tracked down a leak on my rack, right where the steering column connects to the rack, is there any way to ez fix this? I've tried a few leak stoppers, and it's been bled, but it keeps grinding like there's air in it still, everytime I check it, it's full.

 

if I'm just waiting to make a mess of my rack, and it's suggested that I replace asap, is there an easy way, or do I have to drop the subframe along with pulling all the suspension out of the way?

[Masterchief362]

When we replaced the rack in my Lumina a few years back all that was required I thought was just to lower the subframe, disconnect P/S lines, steering column, and outer tie rods and it was free to come out. Not the most enjoyable job in the world, but not the worst either. You shouldn't have to take all the suspension out for it though.

[BXX]

If its leaking, then it can make noise (loss of pressure) and can even get air in the system as well (cause noise too)

 

You left with replacing the rack unless you wanna be like Ken and disect another rack for an old seal to put in your current rack (dont ask me why, he did it I think because he couldnt find another 2.25 ratio rack or something)

 

 

Either way, you need to change the rack out. Not hard but not the easiest.

 

And chief is correct, not much to the job, but laying on your back on the ground makes it difficult compared to on a lift (cake walk on a lift)

[xtremerevolution]

If its leaking' date=' then it can make noise (loss of pressure) and can even get air in the system as well (cause noise too)

 

You left with replacing the rack unless you wanna be like Ken and disect another rack for an old seal to put in your current rack (dont ask me why, he did it I think because he couldnt find another 2.25 ratio rack or something)

 

 

Either way, you need to change the rack out. Not hard but not the easiest.

 

And chief is correct, not much to the job, but laying on your back on the ground makes it difficult compared to on a lift (cake walk on a lift)

[/quote']

 

You get really used to laying on your back to do all the work on your car when you don't have a lift. I don't think there's a single job I've done on my Regal that allowed me the luxury of working under a lift, including every oil change since I bought it. You keep a set of clothes just for that purpose, a bunch of spare rags, and try your best to have someone nearby to hand you tools you forgot to grab when you went under there.

 

As for the steering rack, there are two bolts and two nuts. The bolt is 15mm and the nut is 18mm.

 

You'll need 4 jackstands to keep the subframe suspended in the air as you lower it. The subframe bolts are 18mm. You'll need a GOOD 1/2" drive 18mm socket, an extension to get to the front bolts, and a good breaker bar. Make sure you use a jack to put some lift pressure on the subframe before you start undoing those bolts. If your subframe bushings have never been replaced and if you can spare the cash for new ones, you could easily replace them while you have the frame lowered.

[Crazy K]

If its leaking' date=' then it can make noise (loss of pressure) and can even get air in the system as well (cause noise too)

 

You left with replacing the rack unless you wanna be like Ken and disect another rack for an old seal to put in your current rack (dont ask me why, he did it I think because he couldnt find another 2.25 ratio rack or something)

 

 

Either way, you need to change the rack out. Not hard but not the easiest.

 

And chief is correct, not much to the job, but laying on your back on the ground makes it difficult compared to on a lift (cake walk on a lift)

[/quote']

 

it was a variable assist 2.25 turn rack, and i had another rack I was not going to use. I have since learned that the dealership has a "rebuild" kit that comes with all the seals to fully service a rack for about $25

[BXX]

If its leaking' date=' then it can make noise (loss of pressure) and can even get air in the system as well (cause noise too)

 

You left with replacing the rack unless you wanna be like Ken and disect another rack for an old seal to put in your current rack (dont ask me why, he did it I think because he couldnt find another 2.25 ratio rack or something)

 

 

Either way, you need to change the rack out. Not hard but not the easiest.

 

And chief is correct, not much to the job, but laying on your back on the ground makes it difficult compared to on a lift (cake walk on a lift)

[/quote']

 

it was a variable assist 2.25 turn rack, and i had another rack I was not going to use. I have since learned that the dealership has a "rebuild" kit that comes with all the seals to fully service a rack for about $25

 

PM me a part number. Im assuing it would work with the TGP rack I have currently sitting in my trunk?? Im gonna put that in my CS soon and if seals are available, its worth my time to redo the TGP rack.

[Crazy K]

If its leaking' date=' then it can make noise (loss of pressure) and can even get air in the system as well (cause noise too)

 

You left with replacing the rack unless you wanna be like Ken and disect another rack for an old seal to put in your current rack (dont ask me why, he did it I think because he couldnt find another 2.25 ratio rack or something)

 

 

Either way, you need to change the rack out. Not hard but not the easiest.

 

And chief is correct, not much to the job, but laying on your back on the ground makes it difficult compared to on a lift (cake walk on a lift)

[/quote']

 

it was a variable assist 2.25 turn rack, and i had another rack I was not going to use. I have since learned that the dealership has a "rebuild" kit that comes with all the seals to fully service a rack for about $25

 

PM me a part number. Im assuing it would work with the TGP rack I have currently sitting in my trunk?? Im gonna put that in my CS soon and if seals are available, its worth my time to redo the TGP rack.

don't have numbers... I think they are universal to all racks, except for magnasteer racks, which have an extra O-ring.