no breaks!

[hell_raiser]

all the lines look good there is like no fluid but drivers side front seems to lock up anyone ever have this issue?

[hell_raiser]

i add fluid to the damn regal all the lines are mint bud the damn thing has no peddle i bled them and still no peddle.

[xtremerevolution]

i add fluid to the damn regal all the lines are mint bud the damn thing has no peddle i bled them and still no peddle.

 

Sounds like you aren't bleeding properly. You're 100% sure that you have absolutely no air in the system.

[Brian P]

year make and model?

[mra32]

i add fluid to the damn regal all the lines are mint bud the damn thing has no peddle i bled them and still no peddle.

 

Sounds like you aren't bleeding properly. You're 100% sure that you have absolutely no air in the system.

 

This should help you out if this is indeed the case:

 

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=84227.0

[Cutlass350]

Cool, speedibleed is selling their system again!

IMHO, it's one of the best buys out there!

 

For the OP, yes, it's not uncommon for one or more brake lines not to bleed when a person used the hand method, or the vacuum method. Both methods have huge real life problems when you start talking about all of the real life tolerances. So, it's very possible for the incorrect methods to work for some people.

 

Basically, the only proper way to bleed brakes is by pressure bleeding. For cars with ABS or TC, a Diaphragm-Type Brake Bleeder is supposed to be used to prevent any additional air from getting into the brake fluid. However, IMHO, with a new bottle of brake fluid, and for a DYI job, a speedibleed is just as good.

 

For a dealer/shop, they'll often fill up the pressure bleeder and leave the fluid in there. That's one of the main reason why auto manufactures now specify that a a Diaphragm-Type should be used. Also, many local shops don't properly dry their pressurized air, and/or they'll have oil added in all of the air lines to help lube the air tools.

 

Brake fluid purposely absorbs moisture. So, having it sit around in a pressure bleeder isn't a good idea. Or, having pressurized air that's full of moisture or air tool oil lube isn't a good idea for a pressure bleeder.

 

Also, yea, for the DYI job, without a Diaphragm-Type pressure bleeder, some moisture and air will be added to the brake fluid. But, IMHO, the amount is minor when compared to how much air and moisture brake fluid absorbs over even a typical 1 year period in a car.

 

 

Here is an old web page I did. Note that many of the links are now out of date.

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/brakes/bleeding.html

 

BTW: Here's a picture of the pressure bleeder that I now use:

KD2222 7-Qt. Diaphragm-Type Pressure Brake Bleeder

 

Good Luck!

 

[rockfangd]

lol looks lie a UFO

I like they mityvac system.

My caddy was an absolute PITA when i bled it manually.

Are you bleeding at the beeders on all 4 corners?