whats the quickest way to..

[douellette]

hi, whats the quickest/easiest way to change the rear plugs on my 1997 3100 engine? thanks. i got those new E3 plugs and i want to try them out.

[Night Fury]

Stretch!! I've never had a problem.

[douellette]

really? cuz ive read some things about undoing the motor mounts and then tilting it foward with a ratchet strap. i just dont want to run out of time and not have time to put in the rest of the matchnig plugs

[Night Fury]

really? cuz ive read some things about undoing the motor mounts and then tilting it foward with a ratchet strap. i just dont want to run out of time and not have time to put in the rest of the matchnig plugs

 

That's referring to the 3.1 MPFI, although I suppose it *could* be done with the 3100, although I've never had to

[douellette]

really? cuz ive read some things about undoing the motor mounts and then tilting it foward with a ratchet strap. i just dont want to run out of time and not have time to put in the rest of the matchnig plugs

 

That's referring to the 3.1 MPFI, although I suppose it *could* be done with the 3100, although I've never had to

 

is it easier from the top or bottom? and do i need to take off like the coils or anything?

[cubsfan24]

You can ratchet the 3100 the same way as the 3.1. Thats how I did my 3100 from the top. It's not as bad as it seems.

 

Links to pics:

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=39670.0

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=39734.0

[douellette]

You can ratchet the 3100 the same way as the 3.1. Thats how I did my 3100 from the top. It's not as bad as it seems.

 

Links to pics:

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=39670.0

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=39734.0

 

yeah i saw both of those posts, but there more geared towards the 3.1..i cant do that bolt trick on my 3100 right?

[cubsfan24]

Edit because my explanation sucked I found a pick:

 

When you tilt the engine forward that whole will line up with that engine mount and you can stick that bolt in there to hold it forward.

 

[douellette]

what bolt in the picture are you talking about? the one that connects to the engine or the radiator end?

[BXX]

Be careful when rotating the engine. Especially on older or high mileage Ws, its super easy to tear the engine mount. Either have a new one ready to go in, or you can remove the alternator and/or coilpack/bracket and have tons of room.

[GOT2B GM]

remove the alt and coilpacks as Bob suggested

[cubsfan24]

what bolt in the picture are you talking about? the one that connects to the engine or the radiator end?

 

Ok in that pic I drew a red line through the whole were you will need to place the bolt through into the engine mount after tilting it forward. Just below that red line is the bolt you need to take out. You obviously need to take the other bolt off of the other mount also.

 

If you don't want to damage the mounts then just go buy a $10 ratchet strap. They are usefull for many things

 

Even if you take off the alt and coil pack it is still going to be real tough to change the rear plugs. Just tilt that sucka forward.

 

Edit again: Is it even possible to change the rear plugs without removing anything or tilting the engine? You would have to have some crazy small hands and some crazy flexible adapters I guess.

[BXX]

I have super fat hands and I can easily get the plugs by removing the alternator and coilpacks

 

And at that point it would be easy access and a good time to do a O2 sensor and check the EVAP solenoid(s) vacuum lines back there (they like to rot out)

 

I would rather do that and have more room and easy access to everything else than risk damaging the engine mount anyday. Even with rotating it its still gonna be a tight fit with the coilpacks/alt in the way.

[douellette]

alright i guess ill try the alt. coil pack method even tho the coil pack is a pita cuz u gotta take off each coil pack to get the aluminum bracket thing off.

[Night Fury]

I was just going to say....... 3100 isn't that hard to do without rocking the engine. Just change the plugs and don't worry about all the other bs.

 

 

[BXX]

alright i guess ill try the alt. coil pack method even tho the coil pack is a pita cuz u gotta take off each coil pack to get the aluminum bracket thing off.

 

You dont need to remove the coilpacks and ICM to get it off... 4 bolts and the entire assembly with the bracket comes right off along with the EVAP purge solenoid and vent solenoid as well. Those are on the black bracket mounted on top of the ICM/Coil assy rear bolts.

 

And I recommend putting in the stock Delco Platinum plugs. They are known to be the best for our engines.

 

I would stay away from a marketing ploy spark plug that was originally design for small engines on lawn mowers and suck.

[douellette]

alright i guess ill try the alt. coil pack method even tho the coil pack is a pita cuz u gotta take off each coil pack to get the aluminum bracket thing off.

 

You dont need to remove the coilpacks and ICM to get it off... 4 bolts and the entire assembly with the bracket comes right off along with the EVAP purge solenoid and vent solenoid as well. Those are on the black bracket mounted on top of the ICM/Coil assy rear bolts.

 

And I recommend putting in the stock Delco Platinum plugs. They are known to be the best for our engines.

 

I would stay away from a marketing ploy spark plug that was originally design for small engines on lawn mowers and suck.

 

my solenoids didnt come off with the coil pack bracket like u said last time i removed it. and as far as the plugs go, i saw them dyno test the plugs on one of the spike tv shows...i think it was Horsepower. and they said there was a gain in power and mpg.

[BXX]

alright i guess ill try the alt. coil pack method even tho the coil pack is a pita cuz u gotta take off each coil pack to get the aluminum bracket thing off.

 

You dont need to remove the coilpacks and ICM to get it off... 4 bolts and the entire assembly with the bracket comes right off along with the EVAP purge solenoid and vent solenoid as well. Those are on the black bracket mounted on top of the ICM/Coil assy rear bolts.

 

And I recommend putting in the stock Delco Platinum plugs. They are known to be the best for our engines.

 

I would stay away from a marketing ploy spark plug that was originally design for small engines on lawn mowers and suck.

 

my solenoids didnt come off with the coil pack bracket like u said last time i removed it. and as far as the plugs go' date=' i saw them dyno test the plugs on one of the spike tv shows...i think it was Horsepower. and they said there was a gain in power and mpg.

[/quote']

 

Not sure what your problem with getting the solenoid bracket assy off is. But I can picture it in my head right now.. Pretty straighforward...

 

And sure the E3s saw more hp and such on a new engine on a dyno vs a different non-stock plug..

 

Go with what GM recommends honestly. The factory plugs are good for 80000-100000 miles. The E3s arent. And if you have issues with them, you wasted money.

 

Just my 2 cents

[douellette]

okay. well im still going to try them since i already have them, plus they have a 5 year/100k mile warrenty on them so.

[Andrew]

no harm in trying them out, though i will say that i tried them in the GTP and saw no improvements.

[douellette]

no harm in trying them out, though i will say that i tried them in the GTP and saw no improvements.

 

well thats a downer :/ haha

[BXX]

You honestly expected to see an improvement??

[douellette]

You honestly expected to see an improvement??

 

not huge, but something atleast

[Night Fury]

Not only will you not see an improvement, they will die much faster and/or actually DECREASE performance

[BXX]

Its hard to improve on a tried and true Platinum stock plug..

 

Even if the engine saw a few hp change, you wouldnt notice it.

 

And if you replace worn plugs with any new plug, you might see a change since your replacing worn plugs.

 

A change you would prolly feel is a good FWI, or a nice 2.5" downpipe, or a nice catback