Mach 5 Posted August 14, 2010 Author Report Posted August 14, 2010 dyno run from today 1st running tune @10psi 315tq 279hp video coming soon! Quote
RobertISaar Posted August 14, 2010 Report Posted August 14, 2010 for 10PSI, those are some great numbers. the wildly flucuating AFRs hurt it in places, but those are some damn good numbers. Quote
intern8tion9l Posted August 14, 2010 Report Posted August 14, 2010 where did you go? i need to get some pulls in myself Quote
Euro Posted August 14, 2010 Report Posted August 14, 2010 Those are some good numbers for the first run. Quote
mra32 Posted August 14, 2010 Report Posted August 14, 2010 I'm not a tuner, but for a boosted engine...those AFR's seem about right...on the RICH side. And the fluctuations are like 1 on the AFR scale, not including the beginning and the end where it goes closer to soich and pretty dang rich respectively. Does 1 point of fluctuation make a huge difference? Car is dope...any suspension modddzzz? Quote
AL Posted August 14, 2010 Report Posted August 14, 2010 on the RICH side Oh yah, I am not sure what I was thinking Quote
RobertISaar Posted August 14, 2010 Report Posted August 14, 2010 well, let's take a look and analyze: see where it leaned out a LOT at ~3500RPM and you see a very obvious dip on the torque? going lean not only cost power, but it is also more likely to cause detonation as well, which when in boost can be total devastation. if you look at every other lean peak, you can see the drop, with the exception of the last two, but they were also very mild compared to the rest. hell, look at the first peak/drop, there's a subtle change, but it is still there, and there's a good chance that was with very little/no boost. contrasting: the first huge dip, where it dropped to ~11.4:1? you can also see the HP/TQ drop slightly because of it. it looks like ~11.6:1(according to whatever specific wideband read this) would be the sweet spot with this engine. richer wastes fuel and drops power, leaner can cause detonation, drops power, heats up everything and can make your block shit a rod or two. that being said: TQ peaks at 4300 and HP peaks at 5000 or 5100, with some damn good numbers for 10PSI compared to GM's official ratings at 8.5PSI(205HP)..... and this is at the wheels too, no? Quote
Turbo v-sick Posted August 15, 2010 Report Posted August 15, 2010 Not bad for a mail order tune, Just needs some small fuel corrections. The tune is set up for safety and break in of the new engine, It's far from wicked.... :burnout: Quote
Mach 5 Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Posted August 16, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the comments guys!! Adam yeah especially since we're at diff alt.. the tune is very good considering we didnt know what to expect. Im very pleased! Well I guess Im gonna try datalogging it this week and see how it goes from there. video- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKFgRlcchyw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvkqS4JNa90&feature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=namP2urQ5Z4 Edited August 16, 2010 by Mach 5 Quote
Night Fury Posted August 16, 2010 Report Posted August 16, 2010 Holy fuck. I love how you can get 270 hp @10psi out of a old 3.1 but the L32s at 10psi crank out less than that with over half a liter more of displacement! FAIL! Quote
Addicted to eaton Posted August 16, 2010 Report Posted August 16, 2010 Holy fuck. I love how you can get 270 hp @10psi out of a old 3.1 but the L32s at 10psi crank out less than that with over half a liter more of displacement! FAIL! Compression ratio my friend. Quote
RobertISaar Posted August 16, 2010 Report Posted August 16, 2010 Compression ratio my friend. the LH0 and LG5 work at like 8.8:1, IDK what the 3800s run at.... the biggest factor here is turbo vs roots. Quote
Mach 5 Posted September 9, 2010 Author Report Posted September 9, 2010 ok well after several attempts I gave up. I cannot get this freaking laptop to connect to my car. Im using Tunerpro RT w/ a moates datalogger box. Ive tried messing w/ the COM ports and everything. Now my driver wont reload. I had one time where it did connect to my car but it only showed 25rpm and you could see all the graphs perfectly fine. wierd... any ideas?? -Jarek Quote
slick Posted September 10, 2010 Report Posted September 10, 2010 USB or Serial? Need a null modem adapter if Serial? I've also ran into a lot of cheap Serial cables are not reliable. The ones we use at work, that work reliably, are in the $40 range. The one I recently tested was $90, but worked amazing. Quote
RobertISaar Posted September 10, 2010 Report Posted September 10, 2010 i can probably walk you through the process.... the moates Xtreme ALDL is USB IIRC, and should work well in most situations. Quote
Mach 5 Posted September 11, 2010 Author Report Posted September 11, 2010 yes the moates Xtreme ALDL is what I have. Im going to try again w/ a diff computer and see if that helps. If you can please help walk me through this that would be great!! -Jarek Quote
RobertISaar Posted September 12, 2010 Report Posted September 12, 2010 ok, i'll start from the very beginning of how to setup a cable.... http://support.moates.net/2009/02/10/usb-drivers-ftclean/#comments grab that and remove any traces of previous drivers. now grab tunerpro V4(for testing, V5 later if you desire it's added functionality): http://tunerpro.net/download/SetupTunerProRT_v414.exe and the $8F ADS: http://tunerpro.net/download/datastreams/89-90%20LG5%203100%20Turbo.ads now before you go installing TP, you need fresh drivers for the ALDL cable(actually it's just for the serial-USB convertor in the box, but still): http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm grab the correct one for your OS. now it lists the applicable chips next to the OS, just grab the most current one that supports the FT232R, since that is what is inside the box. now, go through that installation process for the FTDI driver. at this point, you should have the cable plugged in and you'll be able to see which COM port it created in the windows device manager. in all of the recent versions of windows, i believe you'll just need to get to where you can see your "my computer" icon, right-click, select properties and then be able to select the device manager. now, you should see a "ports" catagory, and if you have no actual serial ports, you should only see one, that's the one you'll need to select in tunerpro later. right-click and let's confirm the properties. all of the default settings SHOULD be correct, but the first thing to confirm is that the baud is set to 9600. ok, the cable is now setup for use, let's move on to tunerpro. install tunerpro to it's default directory(i really wouldn't see any reason to place it elsewhere), and then we're going to copy the 8F.ADS file to the tunerpro "datastreams" directory. browsing through C:/program files/tunerpro rt/datastreams should be simple enough, so now that it's pasted there, fire up tunerpro itself. wait for the 10 second nag timer to expire, click continue then click tools->preferences in the aldl/emulation tab, make sure the selected interface is MAX232/2-trans/AP Passthrough, then select the COM port that you saw earlier when you went into the device manager. you should have a 10Hz target sample rate from default settings, now click OK, then press F4. now, browse for the 8F ADS file, and open it. now, you should be ready to start scanning at this point. press the Connect to ECM button and see if it connects. it normally takes less than half of a second, but in some noisy streams, i've seen it take longer. i'm not sure if the one on the TP site has a mode 8 quick command, but if you see the packet error count climb rapidly(it's in the top-right corner), then press Stop Monitoring and select the mode 8 command, then Send Command. if you have an LED on your cable, you can watch it to determine when whatever module is making chatter finally STFU, but it's not necessary. now, reconnect and you should have a very SLOWLY or not at all rising packet-error counter. if you've gotten this far, you're scanning correctly. if you want to log to a file, then in the same F4 screen, on the right side, press Select Log File for Rec/Play, choose a location to store the logs, give it a name, tell tunerpro to create the file, and now you're ready to log. press the record button anytime after you've connected to the ECM and the log will start. when you're finished, press the stop button in either the F4 menu or the main screen and TP will ask for comments on the log, fill it if you feel it's necessary, then click save. ok, now you have a log file. if you wanted to watch values, flags, monitors, ETC real time, you could have closed the F4 screen at any time and pressed the D/V/F/M buttons at the top of the screen to bring them up. that's enough for one post. Quote
Mach 5 Posted September 13, 2010 Author Report Posted September 13, 2010 thanks I just got the program to work and I have one run in for datalogging. surprised at how smoothly it went using your instructions very good write up. Only thing I did differently was use my Moates cd for the install of the drivers. as for datalogging whats the best type of driving to use?? Quote
RobertISaar Posted September 13, 2010 Report Posted September 13, 2010 after helping at least 10+ people get it going before, it's second nature. the moates disk MAY have outdated drivers, but if it's working correctly, don't fix what isn't broken. as for what you should be doing: SMOOTH, steady driving, meaning try not to make quick throttle transitions, otherwise AE and DE can mess with fuel trims. that's not saying no WOT, but if you go up there, roll into it slowly. Quote
Mach 5 Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Posted September 27, 2010 ok well I got a couple more videos of the car this time its Auto X at Nassua Colliseum 9-26-2010 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1chhntti7aY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCkOMSmVCag Quote
GOT2B GM Posted September 27, 2010 Report Posted September 27, 2010 How do you like those tires? Quote
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