RZB1992 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 So when I first bought my car, the original owners had used standard prestone coolant and for a short period, I used that. Over the summer when I needed coolant again, I bought the GM dexcool approved version at advance auto and ever since my engine has been running hotter than it used to. (always used to run below middle line, and the past few months it's either right on the middle line, or slightly above). Could this be a coincidence and maybe my thermostat is going, or has anyone else had this same experience?? My coolant is topped off so that rules that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 are you talking the "mix with any makes" prestone or the Prestone dexcool. If you are mixing standard coolant with dexcool, flush your cooling system when you get the chance the coolants do not like each other. as for what to run, I just run what the car came with, so in your case it should be dexcool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZB1992 Posted January 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 the original owner was just running the standard any make prestone, and I added the prestone dexcool version when my coolant got low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 16, 2010 Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 flush it and start with a good mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZB1992 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 I completely drained the coolant, and did the 50/50 water dexcool mix, and it's still running a little hotter than it was... Sometimes the temp gauge will be right on the middle line, and sometimes only a second later it will be halfway between the midline, and the 3/4 line. Changing the coolant did seem to help at first, but then after taking an hour trip today, it didn't seem to make any difference I also noticed after I shut the car, when my fans turned on that there was a sort of squeeking noise (sounds like a maybe a metal plate or something spinning and squeeking on and off) - car has been making this squeeking noise when driving for the past year or so and you can hear it loud and clear whenever hitting any kind of bump. Could either of these have any relation at all? Engine thermostat and water pump only have 72k or some odd miles on them - could there be problems with those this soon? I was thinking maybe coolant temp sensors? but that doesn't explain the squeeking noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted February 7, 2010 Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 I would start with the thermostat.... It's only like a $5 part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 Did you burp the system? I don't know about 01 Intrigues, but my 94 has at least 3 different bleeder screws. Even then, I find they don't work very well. I end up having to squeeze the air out of the upper radiator hose. What I do is open bleeder, squeeze hose, close bleeder, release hose. That seems to work a lot better than the standard procedure of opening the bleeder at operating temp. Some of these cars can be a real pain to bleed which is probably why they seemed to keep adding more and more bleeder screws (my 89 only has 1). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 I would start with the thermostat.... It's only like a $5 part Not with an LX-5 it isnt! Thermostat, aurora, 3.5l, includes water outlet. 01-02 $78.80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 There is a special coolant fill procedure with the northstars its more than just bleeding it, are you following it? Notice: Do not add cold water to the cooling system with the engine at or above operating temperature. Adding cold water causes rapid cooling, resulting in possible engine damage. NOTICE: When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL® or HAVOLINE® DEX-COOL® coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOL® or HAVOLINE® DEX-COOL® is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner; at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months. Notice: Do not use a solution stronger than 70 percent antifreeze. Pure antifreeze can freeze at -22°C (-8°F). Important: This engine is not equipped with block drains, 2.5 L (2 Qt) of residual coolant remains in the engine block. Refill the cooling system. In order to ensure sufficient engine cooling, freezing and corrosion protection, maintain the protection level at -37°C (-34°F) or lower. Start the engine. Place the heater and A/C control in any A/C mode except Max and the temperature in the highest setting. Allow the engine to continue idling until the lower radiator to water pump hose is hot. Turn OFF the engine. Allow the engine to cool to outside temperature. Ensure the coolant level in the surge tank is at the proper level. Shit dicks out !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 If that doesnt work, its a head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 I would start with the thermostat.... It's only like a $5 part Not with an LX-5 it isnt! Thermostat, aurora, 3.5l, includes water outlet. 01-02 $78.80 Holy mother of god!!!! My bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 Its because the water neck housing is part of thermostat, its actually a very well designed part. I have large doubts it has failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZB1992 Posted February 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 I followed my service manual to change it, and it didn't make any change in how hot the indicator read. I'm going to try a coolant temp sensor first since it's only $14, then I'll try the thermostat - $38 at advance auto parts. Hopefully it's just one of those. I'm guessing maybe the sensor since only a second or two changes the temperature enough for me to notice that the needle has moved up or down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 Remember, gauge clusters are only so accurate. You need to verify operating temperature with a scan tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisflstf Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Doesnt the Scan Tool gets its reading from the Coolant Temp sensor? If so, and the sensor is defective, you will get a false reading from the scan tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZB1992 Posted February 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Well, went and bought a temp sensor, looked at where it was and tried for an hour to fit my hands and a tool in the small area without taking everything apart - not successful, however, I pulled the old thermostat from my original engine and put it on this one... seems like problem solved. Temp isn't changing in a matter of seconds, and it's staying below the middle line like it always used to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 You should put it in a pot on your stove, along with a thermometer, and see exactly when it opens with the stove-top on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZB1992 Posted February 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 maybe after this "massive snow storm" were supposed to get I'll try... I got it done quick tonight and only took it for a 20 minute ride with some wot runs, but I want to take it on a good trip to see how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisflstf Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 Dont know if its relevant to your problem, but my 96 Regal GS starting doing the same thing with the temp gauge a couple months ago. The temp would climb rapidly (10 seconds) from 1/4 to 3/4, then drop to 1/4 again within about 3 seconds, and then stabilize there, like normal. Only happens during the first 10 minutes after startup. After that, its normal - between 1/4 and 1/2 on the dash gauge. I replaced the thermostat, but didnt change the symptoms. I too have a coolant temp sensor to change. Looks like a deep 19mm socket with a 1/4 swivel and short ext should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZB1992 Posted February 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 yeah, I tried the 1/4 swivel and short ext, but there's just no room in my engine compartment unless I take my brake booster out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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