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struts


jake91

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okay my car needs struts bad. what is a good replacement for my car

 

 

if possible id like the suspension a bit stiffer

i want something that will work with a 2-3in lowering (for when in the future i do that)

and something that isnt a billion dollars

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KYB KYB KYB. Did I mention KYB? Everyone on here will say the same. I just put them on and the ride is sooo nice. http://www.summitracing.com around 36 bucks ea. Then go get the Monroe mounts at Advanced.

 

As for the lowering side, couldn't tell you there.

 

x2

 

KYB GR2's.

 

You could use KYB mounts or Monroe mounts; it probably won't make a difference. They'll do fine on lowered cars. Mine have been on my Regal for a pretty long time (60k+ miles) and they're in great shape.

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Get a new mount if the old one is failed, but I'm going to go against the grain and say that fronts dont really need replacing and the rear sometimes get messed up, so if you want to be certain, get new rear ones.

 

The KYBs might also go by the name of Excel G's instead of GR2's.

 

The poly control arm mod doesnt really involve the same parts you would be removing for replacing struts, but theres no reason not to do a mod if thats what you want. Especially if you are already planning on your car being down anyway

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Ive seen one failed one on the the coilovers i bought. The car had around 100K on it but I dunno if the mounts were replaced when the coilovers were installed at around 90k. Thats the extent of my experience with broken strut mounts

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my 92 cutty's mounts were shot on the rear. piston shaft almost went through one. 75k mi too. IMO, just replace them to be safe and 2, so you won't have to do it later. trust me, the less headaches the better off you'll be

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I'd say you will definitely notice the difference the poly control arm bushing mod would make, but its nowhere near the same area as the shocks are going to be. You'll be replacing the shock cartridges under the hood and won't even be taking the wheels off. They'll come out from the strut tower plates, and you'll need to rent a special tool kit in order to do it. Its impossible to do the job without that kit. The poly control arm mod will obviously require you to remove the wheel, disconnect the ball joint (possibly also requiring you to get new balljoints, depending on if you damage them or not during removal from the control arm), and then take the control arm off.

 

It would make sense to do this mod now as you'll need a 4 wheel alignment after all this is done anyway, but it will take half a day to complete from start to finish. Myself and the other two members who have done the mod agree that its well worth the time and you will instantly notice a very big difference even if your car isn't lowered.

 

If you are considering it, read my write-up and my project thread at least 2 times over. You need to be well prepared and know exactly what you're getting yourself into. I was the first to do the mod, and my car was under jackstands for 4 days. The mod can be done in a couple of hours if you make the necessary preparations.

 

You would be the 4th person to do this mod, and I'll gladly answer any questions you have and walk you through the process over the phone if you want me to just so the whole process goes smoothly.

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Obviously I would go with the KYBs as everyone else has mentioned. As far as the mounts go, any brand should suffice. I have KYBs with off brand mounts with my coil overs (same setup on my old car) and the car is lowered with no problems.

 

As far as the mileage goes shocks/struts should be replaced every 50k, depending on road conditions and driving habits.

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While the KYB GR2/Excel G is a stiffer strut than stock, and is about the only option that is decent, keep in mind, it is NOT a performance strut. GR2/Excel G's are designed to be OEM replacement style.

 

 

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I'd say you will definitely notice the difference the poly control arm bushing mod would make, but its nowhere near the same area as the shocks are going to be. You'll be replacing the shock cartridges under the hood and won't even be taking the wheels off. They'll come out from the strut tower plates, and you'll need to rent a special tool kit in order to do it. Its impossible to do the job without that kit. The poly control arm mod will obviously require you to remove the wheel, disconnect the ball joint (possibly also requiring you to get new balljoints, depending on if you damage them or not during removal from the control arm), and then take the control arm off.

 

It would make sense to do this mod now as you'll need a 4 wheel alignment after all this is done anyway, but it will take half a day to complete from start to finish. Myself and the other two members who have done the mod agree that its well worth the time and you will instantly notice a very big difference even if your car isn't lowered.

 

If you are considering it, read my write-up and my project thread at least 2 times over. You need to be well prepared and know exactly what you're getting yourself into. I was the first to do the mod, and my car was under jackstands for 4 days. The mod can be done in a couple of hours if you make the necessary preparations.

 

You would be the 4th person to do this mod, and I'll gladly answer any questions you have and walk you through the process over the phone if you want me to just so the whole process goes smoothly.

i will probably hold off on this mod for a bit untill i lower it

 

 

and why does the car have to be aligned after struts?

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The rear struts control the camber on the rear of the car. Once you have removed the old struts and put in new ones you have changed the suspension geometry and therefor need an alignment. Most aftermarket struts (including KYBs) are slotted to allow for camber adjustment.

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I'm not a fan of the gr2s to be honest, although the options are limited. They don't like lowering that much. If ur going to do coilovers in the rear use kyb agx's for a second gen, if ur going birchmount then anything work as the birchmount is nice and stiff.

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I'm not a fan of the gr2s to be honest, although the options are limited. They don't like lowering that much. If ur going to do coilovers in the rear use kyb agx's for a second gen, if ur going birchmount then anything work as the birchmount is nice and stiff.

 

IIRC this is for a 1st gen. I'm not sure if there is a performance shock for a 1st gen. The KYB's for the 2nd gens are much more prone to failure than on the 1st gens, proven by the number of members here who use them without any problems.

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GR2's are fine for lowered cars, I bought my GR2's used with 15,000 miles on them from a member here, I proceeded to drive on them for 2 years problem free. I now have one (rear) GR2 blown, but that's only because I put the car sideways in a round-about and hopped a curb.

 

All this talk about GR2s not being good for a lowered cars is BS, I had to hit a curb doing 70kmh an hour to bottom one out. (Yeah, round-about at 70km an hour, its fun!)

 

Jamie

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damn you hit 70kph in a roundabout my record is only 35mph but im sure the one you were on was larger mine was single lane

 

Ours are double lanes and on this particular occasion I put the car sideways, apparently 70 was beyond the limit of the suspension/tires I was running, lol.

 

Jamie

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