Night Fury Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 I don't know a whole lot about manual transmissions. When at operating temps, the clutch won't fully 'engage' when pressed in. I am of the understanding that it is the slave cylinder or something? Is this something I can fix/replace? Cost? Thanks, -Buck Quote
RobertISaar Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 when the pedal is pressed in, the clutch is disengaged. i'm guessing shifting becomes more of a guessing game including grinding and not getting the shifter to move? Quote
Night Fury Posted December 24, 2009 Author Report Posted December 24, 2009 when the pedal is pressed in, the clutch is disengaged. i'm guessing shifting becomes more of a guessing game including grinding and not getting the shifter to move? Yes, sometimes double pumping the clutch will help. And if you have the clutch pressed in while in gear for an extended time, it will start engaging the gear, its scary! Quote
RobertISaar Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 kind of sounds like pressure is getting lost if it starts engaging if left in a gear with the clutch in. that would explain why it would grind/not go into a gear. Quote
Night Fury Posted December 24, 2009 Author Report Posted December 24, 2009 Which means.......... Quote
RobertISaar Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 leakage, internally or externally. external should be easy enough to see. if you don't see that, internal seals could be bad, letting the pressure from the actuating side of a cylinder leak into the other side, which would explain the "leakdown" effect of engaging a gear with the clutch pressed in. Quote
19Cutlass94 Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 If pressure is bleeding off like that its normally the clutch master clyinder. Quote
Addicted to eaton Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 buck... i never noticed that?... but i only drove it 30 miles after the clutch (loaned it to a friend... he put a few hundred miles on it) Quote
Night Fury Posted December 24, 2009 Author Report Posted December 24, 2009 buck... i never noticed that?... but i only drove it 30 miles after the clutch (loaned it to a friend... he put a few hundred miles on it) It was like this before as well Quote
AL Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 You will most likely have to bleed the clutch Quote
AL Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 If there is air in the system, It might do what your describing... Its really hard to explain tho... And the bleeding procedure is a pain in the ass also... If you decide on getting the front end from my yard (which is closed for weather right now) then I will bleed it when you get here if you can wait... If not, Ill write up the procedure tonight Quote
Night Fury Posted December 24, 2009 Author Report Posted December 24, 2009 As if I had the money to go up there yet anyways Quote
White93z34 Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 text me in the am, and I'll dig out the FSM and find the procedure for you. Quote
White93z34 Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 Well bad news, according to the 1990 GP service manual the clutch hydraulics need to be replaced as an entire unit and it does not list any bleeding procedures. I know others have done it, such as Gutless Supreme. Maybe drop him a PM. Quote
RobertISaar Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 no surprise, alldata is saying the same thing for 90... and 89.... 88 however Quote
AL Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 I have done it also but thats only if the hydraulics are the same between the 282 and 284... You have to use a special quick disconnect tool to separate the clutch fluid line from the tranny... It connects right under the airbox I believe... Then once it is disconnected, you need two people... One to sit in the car and one to push a little pin in... When you disconnect it, you will see a little check ball on the side of the clutch pedal... The person inside must put some but not alot of pressure on the pedal and then you push that ball in and the clutch pedal should fall to the floor... When it does, you need to release that ball (so it will seal again) and then they can remove there foot off of the clutch pedal... Now, If something doesnt do 100% in any of the above, you have to start over... Which is a pain and can even get more air in the system if its not done right the first time... Especially the last part, the person inside must leave the clutch pedal all the way to the floor untill you release that ball (or pin, whatever it is in there)... Good luck Buck and make sure you pick up some DOT3 Brake fluid Quote
White93z34 Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 No dice Al, The 284 and 282 setups are different. the 282 does not have that quick disconnect. Quote
RobertISaar Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 two different methods are listed: pressure and manual. i didn't look too closely at them, but there they are. Quote
AL Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 Wheres that one guy that goes FFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU Quote
RobertISaar Posted December 24, 2009 Report Posted December 24, 2009 Wheres that one guy that goes FFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU on 4chan, where he belongs and will stay GODDAMINT! Quote
Night Fury Posted December 24, 2009 Author Report Posted December 24, 2009 So it sounds like I'm fucked! This is all greek! Quote
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