Addicted To Boost Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 The blue GP's trans and torque converter are starting to get tired I think... The torque converter is slow to lock sometimes, especially if I've been cruising on the highway for a long time and then go drive around town at 35 MPH. Also, I've noticed that occasionally I'll get a pretty good shudder out of it when driving with a light foot on the pedal at ~32-35 MPH in 3rd gear with the torque converter locked. It did this really badly once when I drove it a couple days ago around town. It will also do a light shuddering on the highway more noticeably if I have my foot very lightly on the pedal in OD with the torque converter locked. Giving it more throttle will make it stop shuddering in both cases. You don't need to give it enough throttle to unlock the torque converter to make it stop shuddering, but if you just give it a little more throttle, the shuddering stops. It does not shudder at all under steady throttle cruising on the highway. I'm certain that it isn't a misfire, I replaced the plugs and wires with new AC Delcos earlier this year. 90% of my driving with this car is with the cruise set at 65 MPH, ~2,050 RPM on the highway. On a side note, the transmission never slips. The fluid has lost its red color so its more of a light orange now. I did a pan drop, replaced the filter, and topped it off with 6 quarts of fresh ATF ~3k miles ago, but most of the old fluid still remains in the transmission. I'm fairly certain it was the original fluid still in the transmission when I did the pan drop. The fluid has always been clean, just lost its red color. Is there anything I can do to help my trans and stop the torque converter shuddering? The car has 225,250 miles on it right now with all original powertrain. Problem #2: I have been getting a random code 32 for my EGR lately, seems to pop on whenever I'm exiting the highway and let off the gas (high vacuum). I took off the EGR last weekend and cleaned it and its port on the plenum, but the code is still popping up occasionally. Any ideas for this? Issue #3: I just noticed this the last time I drove the car... The fuel pump has started screaming at me... its always been noisy, but I've never noticed it being this loud... This car has always been very hard to refuel at the gas station, you have to barely squeeze the trigger or gas shoots back out at you... The previous owner replaced the fuel pump on it before I bought it. Any possible connections here? Just trying to sort out a few issues before I have to drive the car cross-country in the spring. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 shuddering could be the result of a weak fuel pump. do a pressure test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted December 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 I have not tested the fuel pressure on it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Your fueling problem could be in the filler neck... And if you do find the problem, let me know as the same thing happens to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted December 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 Another thing I've been wondering- can I run the new synthetic Dexron IV in my transmission, or would that hurt it since its been run with standard ATF for its whole life? If so, would the new fluid help anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted December 19, 2009 Report Share Posted December 19, 2009 use the Dex6 if you can spring for it. EGR: my #1 solenoid the 90GP died a while ago, gave the same problems during the same times that you describe. i have a test you can do. the EGR solenoid pins are all grounds, and have just one power wire in the 4-pin connector. use the remote boost terminal to supply 12 volts to the pins and a pair of jumper wires and then connect the grounds last. if you can hear the solenoid click, it's probably good, if it just arcs and no noise, not good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted December 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 Thanks for the info, I'll have to look into testing the EGR when I get back to AZ... Actually I do have another question- I'm pretty sure the electrical part of the EGR on my car is hardwired to the wiring harness, where do I jumper it on mine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted December 22, 2009 Report Share Posted December 22, 2009 normally, just disconnect the little triangle looking connector and then jump the pins on the EGR itself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted December 23, 2009 Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 I can't stress this enough...check the top dogbone struts. I had a terrible shudder, and the bushings in those mounts were shot. Changed them out, and not a single stutter since then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted December 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 All motor mounts are brand new. This isn't stuttering, this is like a torque converter shudder. Rob, there is no connector on the electrical part of the EGR that I could see. I know on my 90 TGP there is a different EGR versus the one that is on my 91... so it may be different than you're thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted December 23, 2009 Report Share Posted December 23, 2009 with the three tower(digital) setup, that's the way the connector looks. i believe 90 was the last year that 660s got anything other than the digital setup... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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