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Control Arm Discussion -- Gen 1 W-body


CSI_MuNkY

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Good point. longer bolts=more leverage=more bending forces.

 

Is the entire point of the replacement a-arms to ease lowering of the car?

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Good point. longer bolts=more leverage=more bending forces.

 

Is the entire point of the replacement a-arms to ease lowering of the car?

 

Nope. We can lower our cars without any problem, but apparently the suspension geometry while turning has changed because of the balljoint angle. By how much, I have yet to find out.

 

Tell you what guys. I have a 95 regal which is lowered, and my fiance's sister has a 96 regal which is not. Quite the contrary, it has the mile high dynaride suspension, so I'll take some pictures of the wheel angle while the tire is turned and post them up here.

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if the only reason people are talking tubular a arms or balljoint spacers is to fix camber issues, then the only way to go, is camber plates.

 

they would help both lowered and non lowered cars. camber gets out of whack on both types in a hard turn.

 

Sure tubular a arms might only be a tad bit lighter, albeit any bit helps, but is it worth the cost of them if camber plates are really the only thing that will fix the camber problem?

 

My $.02.

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its not the fact that the wheel is turned...its the the fact that you are CORNERING and have lots of weight on the outside wheel, thus compressing the strut.

 

Longer control arms would probably eliminate any bad camber issues. What you want is the increase in angle of the line between the balljoint and the control arm mounts to be as small as possible in hard cornering which can be achieved with a longer link between them. You begin to run into axle issues and shit.

 

Another thing for the adventurous to do that would mess around with camber curves is to reduce the thickness of the subframe mounts. You'd probably run into a whole slew of problems and the first of which would probably be the inability to run a strut tower bar. Even more adventurous than this would be removing the control arm mounts from the subframe and getting them welded higher. This would probably yield the highest gains in trying to change your camber curves

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if the only reason people are talking tubular a arms or balljoint spacers is to fix camber issues, then the only way to go, is camber plates.

 

they would help both lowered and non lowered cars. camber gets out of whack on both types in a hard turn.

 

Sure tubular a arms might only be a tad bit lighter, albeit any bit helps, but is it worth the cost of them if camber plates are really the only thing that will fix the camber problem?

 

My $.02.

 

Where would such camber plates be installed and how?

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top of the strut in the engine bay. google image camber plates and You'll see.

 

 

I should see what I can do....but adding something to the top of the strut inbetween the strut tower w/o raising the car would be hard.

 

 

 

mini-r53-v-camber-plate-full1.jpg

 

 

IMG_0351.JPG

 

 

default_1183010353_1.jpg

 

 

 

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