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Brake light problem.


94 olds vert

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My break lights after using my brakes remain on, including the center one.

 

I tried to adjust the that white switch that connects to the brake.

 

It seems like to me the brake isn't returning to where it is supposed to be at, because if I pull up on the brake

with my foot the lights go off.

 

Now lets say I pull the car into the garage, shut the door and the all the brake lights pop on.

 

Any ideas?

 

I checked the fuse and its good. The turn signals still work. The lights still work.

Checked the bulbs and they are all good.

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I noticed on my 90 TGP that someone before me had taken a soft throttle return spring, and wire tied one end to the top of the brake pedal arm, and the other to the front underside of the dash. Works perfect. Pulls the pedal "up" towards you when you let off and lets the brake lights work and turn off. I can take a picture if someone wants to see it.

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if the lights go off after you pull up on the pedal, then you need to unplug the wires on the bottom of the switch and turn it in. so it cinches down closer to the top of the pad on the pedal. then plug the connectors back in

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if the lights go off after you pull up on the pedal, then you need to unplug the wires on the bottom of the switch and turn it in. so it cinches down closer to the top of the pad on the pedal. then plug the connectors back in

 

I think that is worth a try.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I started messing with this again. If I put the key in the ignition and do not start the car and pump the brakes the lights

will work fine.

 

I thought the switch was bad but after doing this the brake lights work. So the switch is probably good.

 

When you step on the brake the switch moves out turning on the brakes, you remove your foot from the brakes

and the switch is pushed back in turning off the brakes.

 

 

I was going to start the car to test the brake lights after I turned the switch, but the damn battery is dead. :damnit1:

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I noticed on my 90 TGP that someone before me had taken a soft throttle return spring, and wire tied one end to the top of the brake pedal arm, and the other to the front underside of the dash. Works perfect. Pulls the pedal "up" towards you when you let off and lets the brake lights work and turn off. I can take a picture if someone wants to see it.

bad PMIII. my 91 vert (yes, HAD pmIII) had a bumge cord doing the same thing.

 

yeah, you could have a bad vacuum booster!

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So would taking a spring and jury-rig it to the brake pedal be safe?

 

Or just replace the booster.

 

With the car off, pump the brake pedal for like a minute.

 

Then start the car with you foot on the brake pedal just slightly.

 

When you start the car, you should feel the brake pedal drop about 1/4.

 

If it drops, the booster is fine.

 

 

Should I test it first? Like stated above.

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I noticed on my 90 TGP that someone before me had taken a soft throttle return spring, and wire tied one end to the top of the brake pedal arm, and the other to the front underside of the dash. Works perfect. Pulls the pedal "up" towards you when you let off and lets the brake lights work and turn off. I can take a picture if someone wants to see it.

bad PMIII. my 91 vert (yes, HAD pmIII) had a bumge cord doing the same thing.

 

yeah, you could have a bad vacuum booster!

 

Not necessarily the pm3, my tgp with vacuum brake swap has the same problem

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I noticed on my 90 TGP that someone before me had taken a soft throttle return spring, and wire tied one end to the top of the brake pedal arm, and the other to the front underside of the dash. Works perfect. Pulls the pedal "up" towards you when you let off and lets the brake lights work and turn off. I can take a picture if someone wants to see it.

bad PMIII. my 91 vert (yes, HAD pmIII) had a bumge cord doing the same thing.

 

yeah, you could have a bad vacuum booster!

 

Not necessarily the pm3, my tgp with vacuum brake swap has the same problem

a bad brake booster can do the same thing and not return to full return position...

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older switches can be bad for it, even pulling back on the brake pedal too hard can cause them to get out of adjustment.

 

94 olds vert, can you get us a picture of the switch you are adjusting and how it sits on the brake pedal when it is not pressed in?

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older switches can be bad for it, even pulling back on the brake pedal too hard can cause them to get out of adjustment.

 

94 olds vert, can you get us a picture of the switch you are adjusting and how it sits on the brake pedal when it is not pressed in?

 

Yes, I can get a picture. It will be later today after school.

 

EDIT: I got pics.

 

Picture124.jpg

 

 

Picture125.jpg

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I just had the best Idea...I really don't know why I didn't think of this before.

 

I am going to take electrical tape and wrap it around the spot where the connector meets the metal on the brake pad.

 

And that will push that stupid thing in enough and will turn off the brakes.

 

 

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you know that the switch is threaded for a reason. just unplug the connector and twist it in towards the brake pedal and it should 100% solve your problem.

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you know that the switch is threaded for a reason. just unplug the connector and twist it in towards the brake pedal and it should 100% solve your problem.

 

I turned that switch a million never solved the problem.

 

I wrapped electrical tape around the brake pedal problem solved.

 

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