Just bought a TGP-New Guy

[Pontiac6KSTEAWD]

Hey DEF, I have a write up on how to remove a ignition lock. This might help you... Let me see if I can find it. No damage, and you can start it.

 

Found it..

 

http://www.tgpforums.com/index.php/topic,3379.0.html

[DefEddie]

Go4,you would be surprised how unremarkable my vehicles are.

The ones I do have,will be pretty cool when finished but it's taking me a long time to save.

I've got a few grand worth of topend and electronics for my AWD truck,but the body/suspension has barely been touched other than some creative hacking.

My place is a mess,and my projects usually long term.

This swap won't be a project,it will just be a quick swap cause I need an engine/trans.

Doesn't mean I can't throw a grand into it to freshen it up though.

 

I ended up simply drilling out the ignition cylinder.

Had I had my steering wheel puller at home I would have gone that route.

I suspected,and that great writeup confirms-that it's just like any chevy steering column.

 

I should have waited,but no I drilled as carefully as possible and still managed to hit the rod actuator.

I can,however reach up and behind (column is only partially installed) and manually trip the rod.

I hadn't realized that at first,i'm not used to these older style ignitions and their inner workings.

 

So I hooked my wife's car to jumper cables and then on to the car's cables direct(no battery) and got a half crank and click,click,click.

Starter still isn't getting enough voltage.

Looked at work for a side post battery,and realized most all fords are top post (i'm pretty sure all,referring to newer vehicles).

No battery.

I will stop by autozone and see if I can find a good core that's useable,usually there is one saveable.

Probably no time for working on it tonight,take a class fridays.

 

Did get the car to power up though,climate control/blower motor came on and dash lit up.

I'm really contemplating useing the dash/hud unit and cutting it down to fit my fiero.

Didn't have time for much else,it started raining on me.

Trying to get a plan together to get it into my shop as easily as possible.

My shop is a mess thanks to my brother in law,and I mean a mess.

 

 

 

[Crazy K]

I thought about that for about a split second at first.

Honestly I didn't really weigh the odds though.

At work when we have a locked up ign/no key then the last thing we want to do is drill it out.

Then again,that is because we have to reinstall another.

 

I'll take my cordless drill and titanium bits out there and just do that.

Thanks for making me give it a second thought-I forget that it doesn't need to go back together.

I generally have a severe allergy for destroying things/hackjobs.

I agree... but the cylinder can be replaced... and it is often easier to do the replacement than to get new keys cut for it, though the lock cylinder may have a code that a dealer could cut.

 

 

Did I mention that I bought my 91 international without keys? And I had to drill it to drive it home? and while I was drilling I was stopped for trying to steal the car by the son of the previous owner? I had the title.

 

him: "WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO MY MOM'S CAR???"

me: "What? I just bought this car."

him: "WHY ARE DRILLING OUT THE IGNITION?"

me: "keys are missing"

him: "WHY WOULD YOU BUY A CAR WITH NO KEYS???"

me: "If it came with keys I wouldn't have to drill it out." (DUH!)

 

 

 

 

[DefEddie]

Well,she starts and runs.

Turned right over and started.

Well actually it wouldn't start at first,fire but no fuel.

Finally heard the pump come on,check the shrader valve and just got pressurized air.

Poured a little bit in the tank and cycled the key...

 

Fired right off!!

 

Intercooler to TB pipe is disconnected for the moment.

Tach is not ready correctly nor is the oil pressure it seems.

That's all wiring,and I can work on that later (i'm contemplating using the dash cluster)

[Pontiac6KSTEAWD]

LOL, tach doesnt work, but the boost guage does.. WTF!

 

Sounds like a very good runner thou. I dont even hear any X-Over or EGR leaks. Wonder if it has a rebuilt X-over system on it.

[DefEddie]

No leaks anywhere,but I doubt the boost gauge works.

Unless it uses something like a boost sensor on the turbo (other than MAP) because as I mentioned the intake pipe was disconnected,so no boost to the engine.

 

Turbo looks to be gone,not much air pushing through at idle and when I put the pipe back on it won't rev for chit.

Also blowing oil through the pipe,so centersection probably needs rebuilt.

No biggie,planned on throwing some bigger injectors and bigger turbo on anyway if I can swing it cost wise-I consider that freshening anyway.

 

I've read about the T28 upgrade,and i've not done the math yet but pretty sure i'll just go to a T3 flange.

 

Would really love to know if the 3.1 upper will match with the 3400 lower,and if the headers will bolt right up to the 3400 heads.

I know that doesn't make sense,but regardless of flow I want the 3.1 upper and considering a 3400 head swap instead of the trouble of porting the 3.1's.

(please don't bombard me with too many suggestion's-i'm still reading my options and this is where i'm heading. just want confirmation that my info is correct.)

Lot's of great info here,tgpforums and 60*V6.

[Garrett Powered]

my sig says I got a T-28 but its actually a T-25 with a polished aftermarket compressor housing, bored out exhaust side, bigger turbine and compressor wheel on a rebuilt and modified center cartridge. similar to a "disco potato".

 

I almost have everything for a 3400 swapped 88 turbo 5 speed gp. using a GT2871R turbo. building a 3" dp and port matching LG5 exhaust manis to 3400 gaskets before I start. found a bad ass t-28 flange on e-bay.

[DefEddie]

I wanted to do the 3400 top end,with the 3.1 upper for coolness factor.

I've since been informed the 3.1 won't fit.

Always hated the 31/3400 upper intake's,would rather have something that looked better.

Might just have to build something.

 

So at the moment plan is for 2000+ heads/top swap,freshen up the bottom end and swap to a T3 flange-turbo to be announced.

 

I'm not really looking to upgrade the hp,200hp from my factory 2.8/135hp is plenty.

But I already have a set of LS1 injectors and plugs laying around,and the turbo needs new seals anyway.

Like I always say,why pay to replace when you can upgrade at twice the price.

I know a few other tricks I can play with while the engine is out anyway.

Probably also have the trans beefed up by my trans guy,and see about getting some kind of LSD.

 

Haven't got far thinking about the trans though,know nothing of 4T60/440T4 transmissions.

This one might have a desireable final drive ratio or LSD in it?

Need to research better the final and differential drive ratio's available to me.

 

 

You guy's feel free to post up any links to build pages etc.. that you think I might be interested in.

Thanks for all your help in this

 

[Garrett Powered]

I forgot you got a fiero though. not sure about exhaust.

 

I got the plastic engine cover on my 3400 so it looks good.

[Jonpro03]

Always hated the 31/3400 upper intake's,would rather have something that looked better.

 

 

 

<----- :cry: :cry:

 

[DefEddie]

Jon,don't feel bad brother.

All my experiences previously with these engines are because family members had one and brought them to me to fix stuff.

And my family only brings it to me when it's bad enough it will hardly drive,not immediatly when a problem is realized like I preach them to do.

 

So basically till now anytime I looked at one of this engine's it was to do some not so fun R&R on it.

And honestly because when I pop the hood on the fiero I don't want it to look like a base model impala.

(I didn't really like the 3.1 top either,just like the "3.1 Intercooled" on it.)

 

Garret, I'm not worried about the exhaust really.

Crossover will be reworked for a T3 flange and exhaust will be the biggest pipe I can go with from the turbo to a split taking it into twin Z28 tips.

No cat,No muffler,No frill's

 

[intern8tion9l]

hey home come i got burned by like everyone for parting my tgp and he only got it like once? wtf mates?

[DefEddie]

 

I said I was sorry?

 

 

[DefEddie]

Well,didn't get to work on the TGP today but I did get to yank my wifes rear interior.

 

Put the speakers from the TGP in her 04 impala and sprayed some sound deadner,also rerouted the factory harness to be accessable from the trunk instead of pulling the rear deck carpet.

Should make future diagnosis much easier.

 

I mention this because her stock speakers (6x9") are perfectly fine and still sound great.

If anybody wants them simply come by and pick them up or send some money for shipping you can have em free.

Should drop right in the back deck.

[Go4DaMo]

 

Yes, I'm keeping a record of VIN's, options, and build dates for these cars and will eventually put what I have online. I have a lot more cars listed than Jeff M.(turbograndprix.com owner) has on his site. Jeff hasn't been around in a long time, so I wouldn't expect a response from him. I emailed him 2-3 years ago to ask a question and never got a response. He disappeared from the boards back a few years ago for some unknown reason. The turbograndprix.com domain name has been renewed recently because the site wasn't there a couple of weeks ago...

 

From your pictures, I already have info on the options on your car and the VIN. All I need now is the build date if your still have the "ASC" sticker on the driver's door(located below the door latch area).

 

 

That is seriously SO cool you do all that. I'd like to see what you have sometime!

[DefEddie]

Well,i've been fighting at the seats every chance I get.

Damn inverted torx.

Front came out easy,rear I can't even fit my ratchet on with the bit without possibly damaging the seat.

Somebody is asking about the seats,so I don't wanna ruin them.

 

If my buddy comes by today like he said,we'll get it in my shop and really start tearing down finally probrably.

 

[94GPGTP]

Well,i've been fighting at the seats every chance I get.

Damn inverted torx.

Front came out easy,rear I can't even fit my ratchet on with the bit without possibly damaging the seat.

Somebody is asking about the seats,so I don't wanna ruin them.

 

If my buddy comes by today like he said,we'll get it in my shop and really start tearing down finally probrably.

 

 

8mm socket will remove them seat bolts

[5speedz34]

Well,i've been fighting at the seats every chance I get.

Damn inverted torx.

Front came out easy,rear I can't even fit my ratchet on with the bit without possibly damaging the seat.

Somebody is asking about the seats,so I don't wanna ruin them.

 

If my buddy comes by today like he said,we'll get it in my shop and really start tearing down finally probrably.

 

 

The seat isn't going far enough ahead. Non-power seats will not move all the way forward to access the bolts because no one sits that far forward.

 

Have someone lift the bar up while you sit in the back seat and push it forward. With that force it should got all the way forward.

[Garrett Powered]

Well,i've been fighting at the seats every chance I get.

Damn inverted torx.

Front came out easy,rear I can't even fit my ratchet on with the bit without possibly damaging the seat.

Somebody is asking about the seats,so I don't wanna ruin them.

 

If my buddy comes by today like he said,we'll get it in my shop and really start tearing down finally probrably.

 

 

The seat isn't going far enough ahead. Non-power seats will not move all the way forward to access the bolts because no one sits that far forward.

 

Have someone lift the bar up while you sit in the back seat and push it forward. With that force it should got all the way forward.

 

 

he cant get the back seats out.

[DefEddie]

Actually,it's the front driver seat and it is power.

I brought it all the way up on the track using the button.

 

I've got the front bolts and the door side rear bolt out.

I've spent very little time actually fighting with it as something pulls me away (gladly) each time.

 

I've not yet tried to use an 8mm,but this evening will bring my ratchet wrenches and my low profile matco ratchet.

Should have time to get both yanked today.

 

Never had this much trouble with seats-at work I can pull an entire interior in an hour or so usually not counting headliner-Lincolns take a bit longer.

Generally I just slide forward/impact/slide rear/impact-done.

 

I've yet to even start looking for the rear seat bolts or latches.

Got a space cleared out in my shop though finally,so I just need to drive it up in there.

Don't want to drive on the flat tire (which is completely blown out).

I have plenty of nice replacement tires,so I will take the wheel off today and mount a good tire on it for the person that is buying the wheels/tires.----FREEBIE----

I'll go ahead and mount the spare wheel up so I can get it in the shop for now.

Still need to find 3 more steel wheels to mount up also.

 

I would really really love if someone nearby would come and pick this thing over,not because I want/need money but because I want some of this crap out of my way. (hassle to sell it,and nobody wants it really).

If you live nearby,PM me-you'll get a heck of a deal and more than likely a free chassis/body etc.. pretty soon.

[White93z34]

If I was closer to you I'd be there in no time flat to strip all sorts of stuff off it.

[DefEddie]

Well,got the wheel taken off and spare put on.

Took it to work to get the tire off and see if I could find a suitable temp tire.

It hitched a ride with my new spare front and rear wheel,those are getting tires taken off so I can refinish and put some new tires on.

Then I will be able to rotate a set out instead of side to side.

 

 

 

The wheel looks pretty good,I was afraid I damaged it in our haste to get it home.

We drove/pulled it approx. half a mile with a blow out flat.

Couldn't find anything but 205/50/16's. It had a 245/50/16 on it.

Dug around and found this gem though,brand new tire with a nail stuck somewhere easily repaired.

215/55/16 IIRC is what it is.

[Addicted To Boost]

The factory tire size for TGPs is 245/50/16. I'd be a little leery of trying to put such a skinny tire on those wheels.

[DefEddie]

Not really,only 4.25mm difference in sidewall from my calculations.

Biggest difference is in the width,the 245 being 30mm difference.

I wasn't worried so much about width.

 

Actually,this car being the abs monster it is I wouldnt put ANY different brand or size tire on it.

Cause's too many issues,though I don't believe these have traction control-which really complicates stuff like that.

 

I believe these are already sold,just not paid for. I wanted to put a nice useable tire on it just because the rest look so nice.

For the price they are going for,just buy the right tire and don't be cheap

But this tire would make that person a good full size spare if they wanted.

 

I'll just be driving the car into the shop with the spare anyway,then wheels are coming off.

Rear frame will be supported by 4 cinderblocks stacked 2 high,then i'm unbolting the subframe and lifting the front end with my engine hoist.

That wheel/tire won't ever be mounted on the car again more than likely.

[Twenty]

A 30mm difference between the wheel and tire is nothing serious. Plus it lets you be more agressive with spacers and wider wheels/lower offset wheels if you wish.