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swapping a front sway bar


Guest TurboSedan

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Guest TurboSedan

do i just undo the 4 bar clamps and pull it out one side or is there more to it? i pulled my 34mm bar out of a car that had no engine/axles or anything in the way. any details i should know? is reinstallation basically the reverse of removal?

joshua

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You have to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack, loosen the front subframe bolts, remove the rear subframe bolts and lower the rear of the subframe. Then undo all the bar clamps and pull it out the back. Installation is the reverse.

I don't think you can get it out without lowering the rear of the subframe.

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Guest TurboSedan

really? i can't even remember if the donor car had the sub frame or not....it must not have because i undid the 4 bar clamps and i could easily pull the bar out thru the passenger side wheel well. i know the steering rack was there tho....crap maybe i should just leave the stock bar in and get a front STB instead...do you think the 34mm bar would make a big difference over my stock bar (mm?). the rear Addco bar i put in seems to make the car understeer more, so i think a bigger front bar (and/or STB) might help with this.

 

btw, i LOVE the Addco rear bar! WOW! it's been in the car almost a week and i am HAPPY. totally stiffened everything up in the back :) i previously had NO bar, so it's no wonder it made such a big difference. i wonder if a rear STB would be overkill? thanks,

joshua

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I don't really think STB's do THAT much, I think it's most a placebo effect. I put 'em in my cars just because I know having them is better than not having them, whether it makes much difference or not.

 

As for the 34mm front sway... I noticed a little difference, but not even 1/4 as much as the Addco! The Addco really made my car understeer much more too, I can swing the ass end around if it's rainy out!

 

It's really not that big of a deal to swap out the bar in the front. An hour maybe, tops.

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Guest TurboSedan

yeah i tested the Addco out shortly after i installed it. i gunned it around a tight corner in 2nd at roughly 27mph (lots of torque here) and the car just got shoved forward to the outside of the turn. i let off immediatly and overcorrected just a bit too much, which made the rear start to slide out :) fun fun! i wish i could solo2 with this car. anway, i'll keep the 34mm front bar and install it, but i've never messed with the steering rack or the subframe at all and it sounds pretty involved. are any special tools required? do i have to worry about alignment after i lower the subframe? i'm sure i'll have plenty of questions on the forum when i get around to putting the thing in...i just want to get a better idea of what's involved for now. thanks, :)

joshua

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No special tools are required to lower the rear of the subframe. All you need is a jack, flathead screwdriver or prybar, and a torque wrench.

You pretty much just jack up the car, pull the wheels, and set a jack under the rear crossmember of the subframe. Then lift up the vinyl boot on the steering column (underhood) and remove the stub shaft bolt. Use the screwdriver of prybar to separate the intermediate shaft from the rack. Then loosen the front subframe bolts a few turns and remove the rear subframe bolts. After that, just lower the jack which will lower the engine. The service manual says not to let the subframe drop more than 5". Anyway, now you should be able to unbolt the sway bar and pull it out. The new one should go in pretty easy. Once you get it in, jack the rear of the subframe back up while guiding the intermediate shaft onto the stub shaft. Then reinstall the rear bolts and tighten them all to 103ft-lbs. The stub shaft bolt needs torqued to 35ft-lbs.

I'm not sure if it needs aligned or not, as my car's alignment was off to begin with!

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really? i can't even remember if the donor car had the sub frame or not....it must not have because i undid the 4 bar clamps and i could easily pull the bar out thru the passenger side wheel well. i know the steering rack was there tho....crap maybe i should just leave the stock bar in and get a front STB instead...do you think the 34mm bar would make a big difference over my stock bar (mm?). the rear Addco bar i put in seems to make the car understeer more, so i think a bigger front bar (and/or STB) might help with this.

 

btw, i LOVE the Addco rear bar! WOW! it's been in the car almost a week and i am HAPPY. totally stiffened everything up in the back :) i previously had NO bar, so it's no wonder it made such a big difference. i wonder if a rear STB would be overkill? thanks,

joshua

Do the front sway bar and Front and rear STB's. All of them make a noticeable difference. the Swaybar should make a larger difference then the STB's but again the STB's still make a very noticeable difference! I also recomend doing Energy Suspention Swaybar bushings on both bars. might as well do the best as possible.

 

RedZ

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Wow you people really don't give a damn about the suspension balance at all...swinging out the rear end....All that Front Chassis Brace did for me was make it damn near impossible to do a tune-up, also if you don't watch your mounts, the engine may rock funny when you are "sliding" and the alternator may whack the bar causing all of your blades to shear, flying out so fast as to dent metal not to mention to crack the front houseing....bad experiance.

 

FUX Springs, ODK spring, Stabilizer bars @ 34 and 24mm, 225 55 16 tires, and Reflex or Reactek Struts, Standard V6(preferably Overhauled and Refitted) Auto drivetrain(Preferably one that shifts reasonably quick without chirping tires). Drive that.

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Wanting to plow straight ahead in turns doesn't make for good suspension balance either. :read:

 

I definitely prefer the handling with the Addco. The oversteer is not nearly as bad as a RWD car.

 

BTW, what did you mean by "Stabilizer bars @ 34 and 24mm"? 24mm? :?:

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Wow you people really don't give a damn about the suspension balance at all...swinging out the rear end....All that Front Chassis Brace did for me was make it damn near impossible to do a tune-up, also if you don't watch your mounts, the engine may rock funny when you are "sliding" and the alternator may whack the bar causing all of your blades to shear, flying out so fast as to dent metal not to mention to crack the front houseing....bad experiance.

 

FUX Springs, ODK spring, Stabilizer bars @ 34 and 24mm, 225 55 16 tires, and Reflex or Reactek Struts, Standard V6(preferably Overhauled and Refitted) Auto drivetrain(Preferably one that shifts reasonably quick without chirping tires). Drive that.

 

WTF are you talking about? my cars handle like Slopy Sh*t before my suspention mods. after doing all my mods it is infanintly greater. allot has to do with the driver. So if you did suspention work and your car still doesn't handle well then i think your doing somthing wrong. adding the firmer suspention increases handling on the car.. you wouldn't upgrade it other wise. Ask anyone who autocrosses, every little mod helps. i got my car sideways a few times running Auto-X. after doing my suspention mods i would have to say it is a hell of allot easier to go through the course and not under/over steer in corners.

 

RedZ

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