98layinframe Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 First off, ill start by saying hello... yes im a noob to this site but no where near a noob to the custom car / truck world. Anyways my question is, what are the weak links for suspensions of these cars? I recently picked up a Monte and me being me... i know i wont be able to leave it stock for long. Ive been lurking around here for awhile before i signed up and noticed things like you guys use strut bars alot and then also the one guy boxed in the rear link bars. Are the factory bars that weak? Will it make a noticable difference at all in handling of the car? I have no problem with welding and will probably end up making some new link bars if nothing else for looks. Any ideas on what are the cheaper and most effective mods suspension wise to improve handling? Sorry in advance if theres allready a bunch of threads like this.. ohh and incase anyone cares this is my truck. Built it from stock. http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/107/l_0eac38193e3571a871fdf4724d06d5eb.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunerlover3 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 What do you end up wanting to do to the car? Most people do poly bushings, bigger sway bars, strut tower bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98layinframe Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 is there a larger factory bar or do the monte's allready have it? Wheres the best place to purchase the poly bushings from? Strut bars im just going to make. This will be my daily driver, so the plan is to simply stiffen and improve the handling as much as possible without spending alot of money. Most of my extra money is going towards the truck im building now, and especially when i build a new frame for the 98 s10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunerlover3 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 I think there are some other W bodies that have bigger sway bars stock that fit but im not too sure. I would look into a good set of tires too. You could also lower it, but I hear the ride comfort thats a major drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98layinframe Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Dumb question.. but is there a gallery around here i missed? Interested in seeing what these things look like lowered. In your sig it sayes flipped mounts? whats that accomplish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 i believe the 95 MC Z34 got a larger bar than any other gen1.5 car... and for an idea of how ridiculous we can get with the strut bars... that's my baby, coming in at around 2" OD... MAJOR improvement in cornering capability, even with shitty tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 ^^That looks RIDICULOUS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98layinframe Posted November 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 sorry.. but what in the hell is that! are those welds or did you JB weld it together? I dont think ill be getting that extreme with my strut bars. Probably just plazma cut out some rings to mount on the strut towers, then bend up a litle 1 x 1" tubing for the bar. Does that bar clear your hood? this is more what a few welds should look like. This is my current project truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 oh it's fully welded all right, then some body filler over them to smooth it out, then primer/paint/clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 now THOSE are some good looking welds, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 Does that bar clear your hood? yes, but not by much. i wish i could say the same for the GP... and those are some damn good welds... if mine looked like that, i'd just brush them and spray some clear on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98layinframe Posted November 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 i asked earlier.. but noone answered. Does boxing in the rear trailing arms actually help stiffen the handling? or is it just more for good looks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 i asked earlier.. but noone answered. Does boxing in the rear trailing arms actually help stiffen the handling? or is it just more for good looks? the factory ones are kinda weak since they are U-shaped. boxing them, or getting the tubular ones will help, but it's not a gigantic difference, more of a preventative thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venom Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 The GM Performance Parts rear tubular trailing arms are the best deal at like $45 for the pair. they are listed for second gen GP but fit 1st and 1.5gen just fine. The biggest rear sway bar is one from a 95 Z34 or LS with the 3.4, which is 22mm. Im currently running the GMPP rear trailing arms, Second Gen lateral arms, 22mm rear bar, custom rear strut tower bar, and custom DIY coil overs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunerlover3 Posted November 14, 2009 Report Share Posted November 14, 2009 Dumb question.. but is there a gallery around here i missed? Interested in seeing what these things look like lowered. In your sig it sayes flipped mounts? whats that accomplish? Theres no gallery, but you can always look online. The flipped mounts in my sig are about the rubber bushings in the dog bone motor mounts. You flip them, and the engine doesnt rock back anymore when accelerating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98layinframe Posted November 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 ok thanks. i found the flipped mounts how thread, very simple thing to do. for some reason i was expecting this to be a finding a different mount from another car kinda deal. I'll pull mine out, then fill the spaces with polyurthane to make my own "inserts" which will also help stiffen the stock mounts a little better. The to do list is allready growing and i havent even owned the car for 2 weeks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunerlover3 Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 top swap it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98layinframe Posted November 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 explain..? Is there a better intake for the 3.8? or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 top-swap, in 3.8 speak, means the L67 top end... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 top-swap, in 3.8 speak, means the L67 top end... Which is supercharged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98layinframe Posted November 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 as much as id love to supercharge this thing... unless a free motor and harness were to fall from the sky, its not in the plans. Need to keep this car as something i can just hop in and go, i allready have 3 project vehicles that are undriveable right now. Gotta finish the first gen S10, and then build a new frame for my 98 s10.. too much draggin is kinda a bad thing once your frame starts to dissapear. yes i know.. im a pic whore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunerlover3 Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 explain..? Is there a better intake for the 3.8? or what? Yeah its called an M90 supercharger lol And its easy to do. A whole saturday or the weekend and bam you got a daily driver sleeper. Its mostly just switching hard parts. No wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 18, 2009 Report Share Posted November 18, 2009 AFAIK: the biggest restriction you 3.8 guys have is the heads... seriously, the Gen 2 aluminum headed 2.8/3.1 motors flow almost equal to them... i have the flowchart around here somewhere... EDIT: here we go, courtesy of 3800pro.com .100 58 47 .200 118 102 .300 162 134 .400 184 155 .500 193 160 and the Gen 2 60V6 heads .100 54 51 .200 91 96 .300 142 125 .400 174 128 .500 187 131 and just for fun: the small port 3x00 heads .100 56 52 .200 101 105 .300 145 138 .400 181 155 .500 202 162 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnsmash Posted November 21, 2009 Report Share Posted November 21, 2009 i believe the 95 MC Z34 got a larger bar than any other gen1.5 car... and for an idea of how ridiculous we can get with the strut bars... that's my baby, coming in at around 2" OD... MAJOR improvement in cornering capability, even with shitty tires. Its a damn bazooka! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98layinframe Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2010 well not that anyone cares really... but figured id drop in here again for a few more questions! First off after driving the car for awhile now couple of things i realize is i desperately need a set of new motor mounts! - where can ya get poly ones? And where the hell is the lower mount? The headlights SUCK.. cant see shit half the time with them. Not sure what to do there other then see if theres a way to do the quad light mod? (all 4 lights stay on for high beams) And last problem is the car never seems to warm up. The motor itself is getting up to temp since the brand new T stat i put in is working and opening like normal... but the temp gauge on the dash never reaches normal temp range, and the heater doesnt put out much more then luke warm air. Flushed the system and has brand new coolent in there, it just sucks since its a car im driving in the winter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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