boulevard Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 So we went to the mall tonight. When we left I turned the key to start the engine. After about a second and a half of cranking, I thought the motor started but saw that it didn't after I released the key. I cranked it once again. It took about three seconds of cranking till it started, that's when I noticed the puttering as soon as it started. I sat there for a second and the "Service engine" light was on (blinking). So a drove the family home and dropped them off and continued puttering my way down the road to a Autozone. It wasn't making any kind of strange noises, no popping, nothing. It hovered at about 900rpms solid, not jumpy at all. I finally had it scanned and this is what came up: Cylinder misfire detected Cylinder number 5 - Explanation The powertrain control module monitors the crankshaft speed and has ddetected a misfire condition. Probable cause: 1) Ignition system fault-spark plugs, ignition wires, coil 2) Vacuum leak 3) Injector fault 4) High or low fuel pressure I bought wires and plugs since they haven't been done in a long long time, I'm talking 3 years plus. This was my wifes car people. Not mine so please don't give me shit, because I wasn't ever allowed to touch that car, when it wasn't mine. Now that I have it, it decides to shit on me. Great! Please advise in what I should do. I bought the wires and plugs, thinking that is my problem. Please advise. First time working on this car. Can I reach the plugs just by popping the hood? Does the engine rock forward, if needed? Does the engine need to be at operating temperature for changing plugs? What do I gap the plugs too? Any else I should know... thanks guys and girls, sine there are a few on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 change the plugs with the motor cold. i've done it MANY times without rocking the motor, and cylinder 5 would be the one closest to the driver. and 3 years on plugs is nothing. i went 150K miles and 11 years on the stockers, getting 30+MPG the whole way there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boulevard Posted November 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 change the plugs with the motor cold. i've done it MANY times without rocking the motor, and cylinder 5 would be the one closest to the driver. and 3 years on plugs is nothing. i went 150K miles and 11 years on the stockers, getting 30+MPG the whole way there. Okay, but still change all plugs right!? I bought all 6 and wires. I mean, you're not just telling me to change out cylinder 5 right!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 yes, change everything, you bought it all already, you might as well. just pointing out chich cylinder was #5, so pay closer attention to the plug and wire that come from that cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunerlover3 Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Oh jeez do you need help lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Calm down...just look at the plug & wire for cylinder #5 before you do anything else. Pull the wire from the plug & inspect, then pull the other end from the coilpack & inspect, & then pull the plug for #5 and inspect it. If you end up just changing all the plugs & wires, you will want to rotate the 3100 engine forward to access the rear plugs more easily. 2 methods to do this (I prefer #2): #1 Using prybar http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=39734.0 #2 Using ratchet strap http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=39670.0 HOWEVER, I had a similar problem to what you described with the cutlass right after she turned 100,000 a few years ago, and I ended up having an injector die on me. If changing the plugs and wires doesn't correct the issue, and the coilpacks are ok, chances are you will need to pull the UIM to access the injectors, and then test to ensure they are within the specified operating range. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted November 11, 2009 Report Share Posted November 11, 2009 Yeah I bet plugs will help ya! Sounds like the last 2 misfire codes my car's had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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