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Posted

I am wondering if you guys are interested in a Very very big an sturdy Front bar for these cars? I am going to be making one on my car no matter what, just wanted to know if you guys would be interested. Price would be $130 or so.

 

Ex pic:

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Mark-OEM

Posted

I think your biggest fitment issue will be clearing the 3.4 plenum while not hitting the underside of the hood.

 

Posted

that tubing has about the same OD as the ones i made for the MC and GP...

 

works fine on the MC(3100), but there isn't a lot of clearance for a 3.1, so the one on the GP just BARELY pushes up on the rear of the hood when it's closed.

Posted

Its 2" tubing. But no I will be making just a monster bar, maybe not that big but something really really big.

 

Mark

Posted

Not trying to be a jerk or anything, but what is this accomplishing that my existing cutlass one does not, or why is your bar worth $130 to me?

Posted

Your good man, no worries^^^. First off the cutlass bar is thin wall steel. Yes it works but its not the best. Our bar will be 100% aluminum, so the weight will be much lower while the strength will be higher. Fully tig welded, not like the GM bar that is half welded in some area's. Overall its just a product to put out there to offer a different option then the Junk yard Gm Vert bar. Dont get me wrong I love the bar cause its OEM looking but its not the best by a far shot.

Posted

I have a Buick F-bar under my hood, had to dent the hood in one spot to make it fit... the dent is about half an inch long. And his bar looks to be a lower profile than the F-bar anyways.

 

Your good man, no worries^^^. First off the cutlass bar is thin wall steel. Yes it works but its not the best. Our bar will be 100% aluminum, so the weight will be much lower while the strength will be higher. Fully tig welded, not like the GM bar that is half welded in some area's. Overall its just a product to put out there to offer a different option then the Junk yard Gm Vert bar. Dont get me wrong I love the bar cause its OEM looking but its not the best by a far shot.

 

So wait... its solid? If not how thick are the walls??

Tube > Solid

 

Jamie

Posted

And his bar looks to be a lower profile than the F-bar anyways.

 

 

that bar is on a j-body so it ...I am curious as to how he plans on fitting a 2" bar between the plenum and the hood :shrug: getting a new source for parts is always a good thing, I just don't see a 2" bar fitting

Posted

Its no bigger than this beast, looks like it would be lower profile to me.

 

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Jamie

Posted

Only a TINY bit. The dent is in the cross bracing, its about 1/2" long and only about 1/8" deep, now it doesn't touch.

 

Jamie

Posted

Solid or Hollow?

 

Jamie

 

a solid steel bar would weigh around 20-30 lbs at that size, that's goddamn ridiculous. my hollow ~2" bar with around 1/8-3/16" wall thickness, including the welded on strut covers, is light as hell but stands up to some nasty abuse. there would be no point in making a solid one. too much fat for no reason.

Posted

I just went back and read his second post where it says its 2" tubing :facepalm:

 

I misread one of his other posts is all. I am still interested in how thick the walls are though.

 

the F bar is plenty strong. it's actually a decent design for a stock bar.

 

Yeah it is, but I won't be using it much longer I don't think... I have a full machine shop at my disposal now, the possibilities for my car in the future are now pretty much endless, lol

 

Jamie

Posted

Im in. It would be freakin sweet if you could make it so that theres a hole in the top of the strut tower so you can adjust your camber/struts without taking the bar off. Also if it clears the dohc that would be amazing. Yeah im down.

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