no heat, running hot after LIM gasket install...HELP

[douellette]

i just finished installing my LIM gasket set. i followed what the haynes manual told me to do. Now i have no heat in the car and it seems like its going to overheat. i didn't touch the bleeder screws at all. i need to drive the car tomorrow, so someone please help meee.

 

and also the coolant tube that goes to the heater core is leaking. it leaks where the aluminum piece connects to the black pipe.

[Drummer]

First I'd loosen the bleeder screws up a little till fluid starts coming out of them, just so the system is bled.

[douellette]

you think that will help? i didnt know whether or not to do anything with them since it didnt mention using them in the haynes manual.

[Drummer]

well they were designed to bleed air out of the cooling system so it's worth a shot. And no heat would indicate lack of coolant or a bad heater core.

[carkhz316]

Leave the radiator cap off for awhile (while it's running) otherwise drive it til it "burps" but while watching the temp gauge of course. You mention it seems like it's going to overheat. Just watch the gauge, and of course common sense would be to pop the hood if you are suspicious of it.

[tunerlover3]

X2 on leaving the cap off. Just let it idle for a while.

 

The use the bleeder afterwords.

 

 

[douellette]

okay ill try that, but does anyone have any suggestions or anything about the leaking heater core line?

[douellette]

heres a picture of whats leaking, its the tube right in the center of the pic.

 

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu65/douellette/CIMG3146.jpg

[tunerlover3]

There should have been a o ring in the kit that you need to change on that black tube.

[douellette]

There should have been a o ring in the kit that you need to change on that black tube.

 

there was 3 medium sized o rings left over. i think one was for the distributor plug. couldnt get that out so i didnt change it. the oring that your talking about that goes in the tube, i couldnt get that disconnected either. whats the trick?

[tunerlover3]

Oh man you should have done that distributor o ring. Thats popular for leaking.

 

That tube just takes a while to get out.

[Crazy K]

YOU CANNOT DRIVE THE CAR UNTIL IT IS FIXED. YOU WILL OVERHEAT IT.

 

This is what you need. it will cost from $10-$13 from any autoparts store (Carquest was cheapest)

"Cooling System Connector" Dorman Quick Disconnect 800-401 Stronger version of the cooling system connector that screws into the lower intake and in the output to the heater core.

 

replace it and be done. BUT take the end of the metal pipe and wirebrush it clean too, and then liberally coat the pipe and the internals of the new cooling system connector with silcone/dielectric grease so no further corrosion occurs there.

[douellette]

Oh man you should have done that distributor o ring. Thats popular for leaking.

 

That tube just takes a while to get out.

 

the distributor plug would not come out of the block. i could spin it, but couldnt pull or pry it out so i said F*** it. and no matter how hard i tried, i couldnt get the coolant line out of the metal part, plus i dont have a wrench big enough to fit the part that screws into the thermostat housing. are you supposed to just be able to squeeze the black plastic piece and the metal pipe is supposed to slide out?

[douellette]

YOU CANNOT DRIVE THE CAR UNTIL IT IS FIXED. YOU WILL OVERHEAT IT.

 

This is what you need. it will cost from $10-$13 from any autoparts store (Carquest was cheapest)

"Cooling System Connector" Dorman Quick Disconnect 800-401 Stronger version of the cooling system connector that screws into the lower intake and in the output to the heater core.

 

replace it and be done. BUT take the end of the metal pipe and wirebrush it clean too, and then liberally coat the pipe and the internals of the new cooling system connector with silcone/dielectric grease so no further corrosion occurs there.

 

damn it. so how do i replace that connector? is it regular thread or reverse threaded? any special tricks/tips. thanks.

[Crazy K]

buy the part, and you will have an answer. but... here goes: the metal line snaps in with the plastic snap clip, and often it must be forced out. by using SILICONE grease you prevent the corrosion that usually binds it up. the silver part is what you would be buying and it just screws in, though it needs teflon to seal it up. (new part is precoated)

 

 

as for the oil drive gear... you should use a vice grip on it and pull up on it. Once out, replace the O-ring, but also get a cardboard distributor gasket for a 80's chevy v6 motor. double gasket = double protection.

[carkhz316]

Think of the little plastic piece going into the Cooling System Connector like this: it's similar to a fuel or AC line where you have to push in on the black metal coolant pipe while you squeeze the "tangs" of the plastic clip thing together, than pull back on the black metal pipe. Hope that helps.

[douellette]

alright got the part changed...got the system bled, now its got nice heat, temp needle stays right where its supposed to (halfway between the 2 lower lines) and runs good.

[carkhz316]

There ye be!!!!

[douellette]

another problem the little coolant tubes that connect to the throttle body are leaking...everytime i stop moving the car after running it, steam comes out from under the hood haha.

[buickman091]

It could be spilled antifreeze on the TB or coolant pipe... try wiping it down and check for a leak. commonly, the hose clamps that attach the TB cooling lines to the metal pipe lose strength too.

[douellette]

It could be spilled antifreeze on the TB or coolant pipe... try wiping it down and check for a leak. commonly, the hose clamps that attach the TB cooling lines to the metal pipe lose strength too.

 

yeah i got it fixed now, put the screw on clamps instead, no longer leaking haha..but smells hot or something after driving a long distance.

[GP1138]

I had a BITCH of a time with that coolant pipe and fitting.

[tornado_735]

It could be spilled antifreeze on the TB or coolant pipe... try wiping it down and check for a leak. commonly, the hose clamps that attach the TB cooling lines to the metal pipe lose strength too.

 

yeah i got it fixed now, put the screw on clamps instead, no longer leaking haha..but smells hot or something after driving a long distance.

 

It's gonna take a while for that coolant to burn off of the hot parts of the engine. When I bled the system after I changed my transmission lines, I got coolant everywhere and it took it a couple of days for the smell to go away.