PCGUY112887 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 If that transmission has a built in temp guage (as many do and even my 4T60E does) you can just read it via a simple scanner plugged into the OBD port. I have a heavy duty RV transmission cooler hooked up, goes through the radiator and then through the RV cooler, temps stay down great on my tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloDude Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 That is awsome chris, I have been wanting a trans temp gauge for a while now. Seeing how easy and cheap this is, I may just do it now. If that transmission has a built in temp guage (as many do and even my 4T60E does) you can just read it via a simple scanner plugged into the OBD port. This man speaks the turth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Pretty much what I was doing. A laptop, free software, and a $60 ALDL cable, and you can read every bit of information your PCM outputs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Pretty much what I was doing. A laptop, free software, and a $60 ALDL cable, and you can read every bit of information your PCM outputs. it's amazing what you can do when you smash your head against the keyboard enough times... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Running the cooling lines straight to an aftermarket cooler would be more efficient than running it through the radiator first. Heat transfer is more efficient when the temperature difference is larger, in this case, between the tranny fluid and ambient. So that'd be good for the summer, but for the winter, if it gets really cold where you live, it will make a significant impact on how long it takes the tranny to warm up to operating temp. I wouldn't go below ~180*F, either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I plan on bypassing the radiator cooler in the comp G because A) It needs it, and I'll only be driving it in the summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBH Posted August 4, 2019 Report Share Posted August 4, 2019 Does anyone know the line pressure in the 4t65e cooler? Or is this just a bypass low/no pressure and dump back into the pan?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted August 5, 2019 Report Share Posted August 5, 2019 I don't know about 4T65E specifically, but typical trans cooler pressure is 30 psi to 80 psi. High pressure in the cooling circuit means high pressure in the torque converter--which means the crankshaft thrust bearing is in danger. The cooler return flow doesn't get dumped into the pan, that's what lubricates the geartrain. JBH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBH Posted August 6, 2019 Report Share Posted August 6, 2019 Would regular barb fittings and hose clamps be fine for this? I see a lot of cooler kits like this that attach to the upper cooler hose and just clamp on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted August 6, 2019 Report Share Posted August 6, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, JBH said: Would regular barb fittings and hose clamps be fine for this? I see a lot of cooler kits like this that attach to the upper cooler hose and just clamp on. It's not what I'd prefer to use, but lots of folks do, and clearly the cooler manufacturers use those fittings so they clearly have confidence in them. Given any choice, I'd stay the hell away from typical worm-drive clamps due to the damaged hoses they promote . "Fuel Injection" clamps work much better--if you can get them large enough. Be careful of the hose you use. Typical "fuel" hose is NOT appropriate. PS return hose works well if the pressure rating is high enough. Best bet is the push-lock style hose from the hot-roddy aftermarket like Aeroquip, Russell, etc. Done properly, you wouldn't need clamps at all. Edited August 6, 2019 by Schurkey JBH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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