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FINALLY! Finished HU install in my 89 Cutlass (many pics)


GnatGoSplat

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MEK is strong shit. Will put you on your ass if you get a heavy whiff of it. Did some work in a plant that manufactured pool liners. They used MEK in the manufacturing process and I swear you would get high working there off of the fumes.

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When you make a filler paste, how long do you have to work with it, and how is it to sand?

 

In my glass jar, it stays a paste for several minutes when I open the lid, but once it's applied to the part, it starts to harden within seconds if it's just a thin coat. It's definitely tougher to sand than Bondo, but not any tougher than ABS plastic since that's what it is. You have longer to work with it the more liquid you make it.

 

MEK is definitely a strong smell, but I've gotten used to it. In general, those toxic chemical fumes don't bother me much which is probably not a healthy thing. I can handle thinners, paints, etc. It's the harmless biological odors that make me feel ill... I can't hardly handle public restrooms or people with BO.

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When you make a filler paste, how long do you have to work with it, and how is it to sand?

 

In my glass jar, it stays a paste for several minutes when I open the lid, but once it's applied to the part, it starts to harden within seconds if it's just a thin coat. It's definitely tougher to sand than Bondo, but not any tougher than ABS plastic since that's what it is. You have longer to work with it the more liquid you make it.

 

MEK is definitely a strong smell, but I've gotten used to it. In general, those toxic chemical fumes don't bother me much which is probably not a healthy thing. I can handle thinners, paints, etc. It's the harmless biological odors that make me feel ill... I can't hardly handle public restrooms or people with BO.

 

 

I have a dash bezel I am working on also. Adding 2 gauge pods for oil pressure and volt. I've tryed bondo, but it keeps developing hair line cracks which is, of course, unacceptable. So the project has been on hold while I've tryed to find something else to use as a filler. Considering the excellent results you've achieved with you're ABS MEK mix, I'll definately have to give it a try. Thanks much for the info.

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Well, I can't say for sure it won't crack since I just painted and installed it last week. I sure hope it doesn't crack! Usually using the same type of plastic as a filler should prevent cracking. The double-DIN conversion in my Silverado never cracked, I did that one over 3 yrs ago and it sits outside in the hot sun and freezing winters. That bezel was made out of polycarbonate though.

 

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Wow very nice install! Especially considering that car was never meant to have a double din in it, and one with a flip down screen to boot! Now ill know how to do it if we ever get a older cutlass in my work and the customer wants a DDIN, which is highly unlikely. I would like to put a double din in my TGP, but that would take ALOT of work.

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Awesome freakin job on the install Gnat!!! Think I`ll do that to my 90 when i get it running again and start on the interior. Wanna come help????? :cool:

 

When you make a filler paste, how long do you have to work with it, and how is it to sand?

 

In my glass jar, it stays a paste for several minutes when I open the lid, but once it's applied to the part, it starts to harden within seconds if it's just a thin coat. It's definitely tougher to sand than Bondo, but not any tougher than ABS plastic since that's what it is. You have longer to work with it the more liquid you make it.

 

 

I work for an aircraft interior plastics company www.planeplastics.com **shameless plug, sorry mods** and we use MEK all the time to weld ABS.

 

Once you make your paste *we use quart size metal cans, (just like the gallon size paint cans only smaller) to mix our paste in* the stuff basically will last about a month before going bad, i.e. hardening. If it starts to gel *stiffens* before you use it all, just add alittle more MEK and mix good. We use an old egg beater in a drill press.

 

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Hope you don't mind if I pick your brain a little more. You obviously did some good research, so how did you find out GM uses this WMP in thier plastic? Since the MEK isn't compatable, how well will the MEK filler mix adhere to the GM parts? Finally, do you know what kind of glue will work on GM plastic?

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How it was installed:

 

1. I cut out the stereo floor and part of the airbox with a Dremel, then rerouted the dash harness under the stereo.

IMG_1651.jpg

 

 

Whaaaaat, wow this photo is a blast from the past to me. I did the very same thing almost six years ago to accomodate this model CD/cassette radio:

 

oldscdcassettefront2.jpeg

 

Every once in a while when i rummage through the box of car crap in my trunk i come across the original dash cutout piece i saved...same colour too.

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Hope you don't mind if I pick your brain a little more. You obviously did some good research, so how did you find out GM uses this WMP in thier plastic? Since the MEK isn't compatable, how well will the MEK filler mix adhere to the GM parts? Finally, do you know what kind of glue will work on GM plastic?

 

On the bezel itself, is stamped "ABS+WMP". :) I have no idea what WMP is, and Google isn't any help. I do know whatever it is, it makes the ABS no longer dissolve in MEK (instead, if left in MEK long enough, it turns white, crumbly and seems talc-like). However, it can still be melted at high temperature. I'm just guessing the WMP was added as a fire retardant, but it may have been added to increase stiffness and prevent heat warping.

MEK filler mix itself, if liquid enough, is very sticky, so it adhered well to sanded GM plastic.

 

4door Intl - any pics of your setup? I don't know if I would have gone to this much trouble for a CD/cassette radio, but I haven't owned a cassette for 15yrs.

 

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I'll take a photo the next time i take the beast out. I remember using a handheld wood/leather etcher(?) thing i picked up at a craft store so i could melt the plastic cutout. Also i recall not wanting to bother taking the dashboard top off again for room as i had removed it years before to silicone down the curled up dashpad, so i left it in place.

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So here's my version, note the half assedrey, lol

 

4030700270_674b518090_b.jpg

 

 

The cutout i saved just in case but it's been almost six years so i doubt it...

 

4030700278_d3080622eb_b.jpg

 

 

Oh and check out my snazzy cupholder i broke out of a wrecker '93 Supreme armrest storage bin last year.

I put screws through the ends of its arms and they catch the inside plastic lip of the seat.

I also screwed a small metal tab into side of the shifter surround for support and it works great:

 

4030700284_2f4d405ab5.jpg

 

 

Oh and one last thing, walking to my car i noticed some guy's Regal got new, even fancier script, lmao

 

4030700294_a8c957cca4.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Me? I took the upper dash pad out. I had to, in order to remove enough material to get the depth I needed.

You can see pics in the 2nd post of the dash pad out of it.

"4door Intl" mentioned he did his without removing the dash pad though.

 

The upper dash pad is super easy to remove. I've removed and reinstalled it probably 6 dozen times for different reasons.

 

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  • 2 years later...

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