3.4 DOHC Intake Gasket... GRRRRR!!!

[Guest Anonymous]

Do the fuel lines have the quick disconnect fittings? If so, you can get the tool to disconnect them at Auto Zone or Advance Auto.

[GnatGoSplat]

Yeah, that's probably what they are. They resemble the fuel lines that were on my Mercury Sable, and those needed a special tool to separate. So this is probably one of those bastards, eh? Wonderful!

[Guest Anonymous]

I wonder if they only used the quick disconnect on certain engines. My '94 cutty has the 3100 and my lines are not quick disconnects.

[GnatGoSplat]

Probably just the 3.4! They probably figure so much on it requires special tools, why not add to it.

 

Would this be the tool I need to disconnect those quick connects?

http://www.lislecorp.com/tools/catalog/general/gen1.htm#37000

[Guest Anonymous]

That would be them. Part# 37000.

[CPSMonteZ34]

Don't laugh at me for this - cause it worked. I didn't bother disconnecting the flexible lines from the steel lines that connect to the fuel rail. I unscrewed the steel holding plate from the fuel rail and yanked the steel lines off the rail.

[ZXXXIV]

I did not have to remove the fuel rail when I changed the gaskets.I just moved it out of the way.

[cutlassdude96]

I like part #57900 If you have ever remove the belt of a 91 Calais w/Quad4 not much room to get socket wrench in there this wood come in handy.

[CPSMonteZ34]

I like to take things apart in order to learn their process through...and besides, I wanted to thoroughly clean the lower manifold and inspect the injectors. With that much of the engine taken apart, sometimes one might as well cover all the bases.

[Brian P]

HEH...That's what I said about doing the head gaskets for preventive maintenance, but then I'm like FUCK it. im hungry

[GnatGoSplat]

I spent an hour taking it all apart tonight... well, probably spent half an hour on that damn throttle body hose!

 

I've noticed there are two bolt holes in the lower intake that weren't used, and threads in the head. Are there supposed to be bolts for these two holes?

[GnatGoSplat]

Oh yeah, I noticed oil seems to have leaked out of the valley cover too. Does the intake manifold kit from Felpro come with the gasket for it?

[CPSMonteZ34]

The hose, yeah, I know. LOL - That's why I recommend replacing the stock hose clamp with a more handy turn-screw hose clamp. MUCH easier to put back together again.

 

Those holes you mentioned are to tighten down the lower manifold so the angled manifold bolts can enter the heads. DON'T SHORTCUT THIS STEP! As the gasket is so tall, it doesn't allow the manifold bolts to line-up correctly...and of course, skipping the bolt-down of the manifold would mean stripping the bolt holes when trying to get them back in.

 

I forget the bolt size, but the plenum bolts with a butt-load of washers is what I used. I was pretty sure the bolt size was a match.

[GnatGoSplat]

AH, I see! So once the lower intake is properly installed, the hold-down bolts are no longer needed, correct?

 

I actually didn't have any problems with the spring hose clamps, the main problem was getting the hose unstuck from the fittings. I originally wanted to salvage the hose, but after much struggling and time wasting, I said, "f**k the hose!" and decided to slash the crap out of it. My pocket knife was too dull, and I couldn't find my box cutters. So I had to carefully slice the hose with an X-acto knife.

 

I have a strange feeling I'm going to wish I had written down a log of every single thing I removed, the order, and the screws...

[CPSMonteZ34]

You got it. Bolt down the manifold by the two holes, install the manifold bolts, then remove the two bolts from the top (I believe before you begin final torque-down steps for the manifold bolts). You're just going to LOVE the corner bolts...at one point I was using a box end wrench due to the confines.

 

I don't think you'll see a gasket for the v-cover. At least the GM kit didn't come with one, so I'm assuming the same for the other kit.

 

As for the hose, I might suggest (for future reference) that a pair of plyers gripped around the fitting can work the hose free with a few gentle turns side-to-side. With this method, I figured if I shred it, I'll replace it.

 

I had to chuckle when you mentioned writing the process down for an installation reference. I meant to do it for my site - all the little pains in the ass and such. I was about ten minutes into the project when all the troubles began and I forgot to write down anything else...the last thing recorded on my sheet was, "...remove plenum oil ventilation hose". Everything else was a blur...so the only thing left to say was, "I hope I don't have any nuts, bolts, or screws left after I'm done.". I remember staring at a nut and wondering, "Damnit! Just what in the hell is this for?" - Turned out to be the last nut of the job...for the fuel rail cover. Took ten minutes to figure that one out. I'm surprised I had the patience.

[GnatGoSplat]

A really long extension (I think mine is 12" long) does pretty good with the corner bolts. The only one that was a bit annoying is the lower left corner one. The p/s pump was in the way so I couldn't use a short extension, and the p/s hose was in the way of the long extension. My U-joint took care of that, though! I think I should have no trouble getting a torque wrench on all the bolts thanks to my vast collection of extensions, u-joints, etc.

 

Rotating the hose is a good trick that works most of the time, but didn't work for me this time. I think mainly because of my crappy 100-year old pliers... I couldn't find my channel locks. Oh well, it's just a short length of hose, I'm sure I have more somewhere!

 

One thing I noticed... I'm starting to doubt that the oil collecting in the valley is from the valley cover gasket. I looked at the sides, and it wasn't greasy. It almost looked like oil could be seeping out of the head gasket! Argh! If that's the case, I think I'll just keep the oil topped off and not worry about the head gasket until it has a serious problem. Oh yeah, I noticed a little bit of oil seepage on the #3 cylinder spark plug gasket too (middle rear). I think I'm going to get to know the 3.4 DOHC quite well, and not because I want to!

[CPSMonteZ34]

When was the timing belt last done? If it won't be for a while, you might as well wait until then to replace the head gasket (should that be your problem area). You'll have to deal with the timing belt from that point anyhow. Dunno, something to think about.

[GnatGoSplat]

I have no idea when the timing belt was last done, but it looks new (very clean) and is still pretty thick, so I think it must have been done recently. I had asked the previous owner, but he had no clue, he said to ask the Oldsmobile dealer because that's where he took it for that kind of work.

I might call the dealer just to see if they can get a service history (and not charge me for the info).

I'm thinking the belt is fairly new though... or it has just held up exceptionally well.

I may just clean the head gasket seam and run a bead of silicone over it. If it's just seepage, that might reduce it.

 

BTW, what did you clean the gasket surfaces with? Lacquer thinner works pretty well, but requires quite a bit of scrubbing. Since lacquer thinner worked on it though, I'm almost thinking to try some Citristrip paint stripper on it since that stuff is quite a bit stronger than thinner. I just have to make sure it doesn't affect aluminum.

[CPSMonteZ34]

I think I tried a couple things. Thinner comes to mind as working the best, but I also took the route of scraping with a new flat-edge razor once the gasket was soft. I know, I know, it could cut or scar the surface; but, I'm used to intricate work, so the delicate treatment was easy for me.

 

Tip: Try setting up a vacuum nozzle right up at the intake where you're working on removing the gasket surface and it should prevent anything from dropping into your cylinders.

[gtr252]

Well, replaced my intake gasket today. Only forgot to hook up 1 vaccum line (which I soon found) and had NO bolts leftover! Ran kinda rough at first, but soon smoothed out a lot sooner than it did before I ripped parts out of my poor engine. Changed out spark plugs and wires while I was at it since I had the plenum off, I had a little fun with it and did this

 

 

That's not just a red glare, that's red aluminized paint

[DOHCRagtopguy]

Finished mine up last night, man is it smooth now. Shouldn't have any more repairs now for a while unless the alternator fries or something.

 

The Fel-Pro set came with 3 gaskets and one O ring, no valley gasket. Only cost 19 bucks at the local Advanced Auto in Reading.

 

The job was really a piece of cake, took my time with numerous beers in between.

[GnatGoSplat]

Yep, I did mine too a few weeks ago. I'm concerned I might have broken the EGR tube since the engine growls louder than I remember my friend's '95 Monte Z34, but I don't notice an adverse effects so no biggie.

The only hard part was getting the plenum on - I didn't have a helper, so I had to find a way to tie the EGR out of the way to slip the plenum under it. It took a dozen tries before I managed to find a good place to tie the rope so that the EGR was sufficiently out of the way, but it's all that fussing with it that makes me think MAYBE I flexed the EGR tube a little too much (like when you bend a piece of metal back and forth too many times, it breaks).

 

The car runs great, but now the power steering system needs work. I bet once I get that fixed, the alt will go out!

[DOHCRagtopguy]

My power steering doesn't leak or anything, but it does growl just a little when making turns at low RPMs. Think I'll change the fluid and see if that helps at all. Doesn't look like the PS pump would be that big a deal to change if it goes.

[GnatGoSplat]

Nah, it looks easy, which is why I'll change it first before I mess with that hose!