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Posted

Ok ive been having a problem with my Monte Carlo for a while now.

 

Ive owned the car over 2 and half years now and im on my 5th maybe set of rear rotors and pads because they keep warping!

 

Ive replaced the calipers and hardware. Im using synthetic high temp brake lube, yet they keep rusting up and sticking.

 

What have you guys done to get rid of this problem? Is it just something I gotta maintain more often?

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Posted

make sure you torque the wheels correctly....

 

it sounds totally unrelated, but trust me it isn't. i've had that somewhat *fix* warped rotors just by retorquing and driving around again...

Posted

What kind of pads and rotors are you using? I've only replaced my rear rotors twice because of warping in the 145k+ miles I've had it.

 

Rotor warping as far as I can tell is a result of poor manufacturing, aka every OEM/GM/ACDELCO rotor I've ever used.

Posted

Ive used duralast pads and rotors, raybestos pads on duralast rotors, most recent set was napa premium rotors and ceramic pads.

Posted

Ive used duralast pads and rotors, raybestos pads on duralast rotors, most recent set was napa premium rotors and ceramic pads.

 

I refuse to use anything duralast after my experiences with two of their brake pads back to back.

 

Raybestos rotors have been good, but you mentioned you used duralast when you used raybestos pads.

 

Napa is overpriced IMO and not worth it. Want a great rotor for a cheap price that won't warp after you put it on?

 

R1 Concepts. I've bought and installed well into 8 pairs of their rotors (on multiple cars) and not a single one of them has warped yet. I even baked my brakes to a crisp with ceramic pads and drilled/slotted R1 concepts rotors with some very spirited windy mountain road driving in the Bonneville, and they still didn't warp. My regal's rear calipers siezed up one time and you could see the smoke coming out of the brakes every time you came to a red light or stop sign, and they're not warped, and those are the plain blank R1 concepts rotors, not even drilled/slotted.

Posted

i put a set of R1 concept rotors on the 95, but i got them without the cross-drilling, but i did pay extra for zinc coating... and it is worth it.

Posted

I get a discount at Napa so the price wasnt bad at all.

 

The only reason I kept going with autozone rotors was because of the warranty :lol:

 

But I dont think its just the company im getting parts from. My caliper keeps sticking no matter how much I clean and lube the slides.

Posted

i put a set of R1 concept rotors on the 95, but i got them without the cross-drilling, but i did pay extra for zinc coating... and it is worth it.

 

All R1 rotors are zinc coated Ken. :lol: And they're all dirt cheap at that. Under $50 shipped for the pair for the rears (10.5")

 

I get a discount at Napa so the price wasnt bad at all.

 

The only reason I kept going with autozone rotors was because of the warranty :lol:

 

But I dont think its just the company im getting parts from. My caliper keeps sticking no matter how much I clean and lube the slides.

 

Autozone is very convenient for me since they're nearby, and they always stock my engine torque mounts for the regal, which is very good since I go through a duralast engine torque mount every 6 months. The warranty is nice, and the job only takes 5 minutes, but I definitely wouldn't want to be using that crap of a quality product on my brakes, which take considerably longer to change.

 

How many miles do you have? Have you considered rebuilding the rear calipers? Have you changed out the brake hardware yet? By brake hardware, I'm referring to shims, bolts, sleeves, and grease boots.

 

If that still doesn't work, consider rebuilding the calipers. It shouldn't be too hard to do, and the parts are cheap. Essentially the piston rings and rubber boot that goes around it.

Posted

according to the site, the blank rotors don't come with the plating..... standard anyways.

Posted

according to the site, the blank rotors don't come with the plating..... standard anyways.

I contacted them and asked, and they said they would do it. iirc, it was $20 extra.

 

my goal? CLEVELAND RESISTANT ROTORS. I've had to replace a few because of the rust belt...

Posted

my goal? CLEVELAND RESISTANT ROTORS. I've had to replace a few because of the rust belt...

 

i know this issue all too well...

 

rust belt is FTL...

Posted

162,000.

 

I already replaced the calipers last fall and did the hardware kit this last winter.

 

 

Posted

162,000.

 

I already replaced the calipers last fall and did the hardware kit this last winter.

 

 

 

Did you replace them with rebuilt calipers or brand new ones? I ask because the rebuilt calipers I bought once from napa were nothing more than painted calipers with new boots on one end. They thought it was normal for the caliper bracket to be permanently attached to the caliper. I told them they were idiots and proceeded to hammer the bracket out to show the rusted sleeve inside. Idiots.

 

All of the rotors I've ever purchased from R1 were zinc coated. I didn't even know they made non-zinc coated rotors.

Posted

Brand new calipers not rebuilt.

 

R1's prices are actually pretty cheap. So I might be getting a set soon.

Posted

I will take a picture of myself wearing tighty whities on my head and post it on w-body if you can warp a set of zinc coated R1 rotors in under a year.

Posted

I will take a picture of myself wearing tighty whities on my head and post it on w-body if you can warp a set of zinc coated R1 rotors in under a year.

 

they have to be skidmarked...

Posted

So make it better then, clean tidy whiteys, but worn on your head, nothing else on and full body shot! :mrgreen:

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