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TGP Vids FIXED!!


PhatMpk

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Replaced the 02 sensor back to AcDelco it doesnt want to shift unless i let off the gas, seems to lose power at WOT but gains more speed if i ease off the gas, or if i slowy ease into the gas it runs but still struggles to gain speed

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Replaced the 02 sensor back to AcDelco it doesnt want to shift unless i let off the gas, seems to lose power at WOT but gains more speed if i ease off the gas, or if i slowy ease into the gas it runs but still struggles to gain speed

I was having the exact same issue with mine... hopefully you find the issue!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Purple wire from the 02, reset the computer, now my boost guage is more accurate than it was when it wants to work, engine runs fine at low speeds, when im in forth gear on the freeway the engine is really knocking real bad, 1-2-3 gears still wants to really struggle to gain power after 3,000 rpms, when let it idle, my lights get kinda dim at night especially when the fan kicks on, the lights brighten up when i gain some speed, it seems to want to run a little better after i unhooked my 4,000 watt stero

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Installed that check valve on the vac modulator today, also found that maybe one of my spark plug wires came loose from one of the coils, but it was caked with die electric grease , runs perfect now on top end, shifts better than it ever has 5,500 rpms, engine still wobbles when i ease on the throttle in 4th gear thinking this must just be my upper motor mounts goin bad again :rolleyes:

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  • 2 weeks later...

ok symptoms are coming back a little bit, the spark seems to break up at high rpms again, especially when im in forth gear just ideling down the freeway, seems to get worse the lower the tank is on gas, I reused the old fuel pump pulsator when i replaced my fuel pump and used the new larger O-ring for the fuel tank lid that came with the pump, seems to hold presssure ok whenever i go to fill it up pressure does release only after running it for while, I have one new coil pack that im going to try and doctor tranny instant shudder fix

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I don't know much about TGP, but I was going to suggest the coilpacks.

 

What about the ECM? Possibility of it taking a shit, or possibly a bad ground to it?

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doctor tranny instant shudder fix? I should have used that to instantly fix the broken band in my transmission! :lol:

 

scammers. I would not support that brand by buying it. knowing they bank on false hope.

 

 

and yeah, the coil packs. all three and a new ICM. all AC Delco if possible.

 

you may look into getting a smaller starter to make thing easier when doing the ICM. take off the big stock starter and there is the lower bolt wide open. just make sure and torque all three back down with copper antiseize and you will have a good ground and no more worries. two of them vibrated loose on my red tgp (or someone did not know how to remove it all the way). also the starter power wire nut had wiggled loose. AND the CKS bolt was loose. which a good signal is only produced correctly at proper clearances to the crank.

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doctor tranny instant shudder fix? I should have used that to instantly fix the broken band in my transmission! :lol:

 

scammers. I would not support that brand by buying it. knowing they bank on false hope.

 

 

That stuff is intended to help with torque converter shudder and it does actually help somewhat. I know people that have had vehicles w/ converters that would slip + shudder pretty bad and it stopped them from doing so for a period of time. They used that stuff until they could afford to replace the converters...

 

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Thanks thats what I was thinking since i did that with those bosch plugs and it run much better but spark still breaks up at low throttle in forth gear, I unhooked my stereo, and if I ease on the throttle it will take off, If I put it to the floor seems to flood imediately, would a low battery cause this as well? My battery dies ike twice a year when im running my audiobahn set up, if all else fails then coil packs then ICM

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Can any1 please walk me through changing the coil packs and ICM It looks as if there is a pack of wire running in front of the bottom bolts for the coils cant seems to get a socket in there

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That wire pack, is your main hot cable from your starter!! Make sure you disconnect your battery befor going any further!

 

Once you get the battery disconnected, you could force the socket in there (its what I do cause I am lazy), or you could remove the wire from the starter, do your work, and reconnect your wire.

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That wire pack, is your main hot cable from your starter!! Make sure you disconnect your battery befor going any further!

 

God ya disconnect the battery. Last time I swapped icm I grounded the starter wire on oil or coolant line from turbo, cant remember which. Sucked...

 

Each coil has two bolts top and bottom. Once you get all 6 out the ICM will come right off.

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Can any1 please walk me through changing the coil packs and ICM It looks as if there is a pack of wire running in front of the bottom bolts for the coils cant seems to get a socket in there

 

 

 

 

 

you may look into getting a smaller starter to make thing easier when doing the ICM.

 

 

this and taking the radiator fan out will help you out a ton. also take the turbo oil pressure line and disconnect it. the ICM will come out with the coil packs still attached.

 

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Thanks all goin to work on it soon, put my rockford fosgate capacitor back on all the cars lights instantly brighten up a lil bit pick up speed is much better, still shudder in fourth gear, prolly still weak enough spark to make it half crappy on the freeway, goin to try to gap the plugs to .30, then work on the coils

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Yes they are 0.030

seemed to run better with bosch goldplus gapped to .030 would start good, idle, good and would run all the way to fourth gear then would seem to lose power while accelerating at about 50-55

 

put acdelco plugs in at .045, ran like in the video, hooked my stereo up with capacitor, can symtpoms seemed to disappear, took in on 1 hour trip , the next day ran just like in the video

 

regapped the acdelco plugs to .030 with no improvement stripped one of the threads on the front left plug on the head chased the thread seems to hold :mad: :frown:

now starts good idles good, runs good only up to 3,000 rpms

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killinprixs:

 

7mm ? if so they burn right up, may work for 2-3 months but the misfiring will come back eventually, get like accel 8mm or MSD wires.

 

also like i said if your positive its not the plugs/wires/coils/sensors/fuel pump/regulator/filter the only thing left is the injectors, seeing how you already replaced 2 others might be bad. I just replaced a set of injectors that were brand new only put on 2000 miles with them, had bad missfiring and boost problems, all injectors TESTED good but as soon as i changed them, all problems went away and car ran perfectly normal again. Even tho the injectors were new, one prematurely malfunctioned and the car ran like ass. I was chasing everything on that dam car until i had no other choice than to replace them ALL. Just goes to show when you ohm injectors it doesnt mean that they are physically working. Everythig else checked out like , compression perfect, fuel pressure 40#+, brand new ignition components, all sensors new, swaped ECM/ chips, fuel regulator.

 

 

 

just took a look everything is dark as can be, no sparks jumping anywhere I can see, 7mm wires, maybe injectors are going bad as there are four original ones, 1 yellowtop, and 1 gp sorensen, I have the front three injectors stock, and the back three are 1 stock 1 yellowtop, n 1 gp, boost guauge seems to show +13 now but struggles above 3k, all the sensors seem to be working correctly except my oil pressure sending unit doesnt seem to be working as the guauge on the dash shows the pressure needle all the way up

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