UGH OH REAR BRAKES

[thatcutteeboy]

Hey guys I just changed the rear brakes on my vert (calipers, pads, rotors) and now my brakes aren't what they used to be. I bled the system using the two man version (pump um hold um down) at every corner of the car but I can't seem to get my pedal back. I read on here somewhere that you could ruin your master cylinder if you let the pedal go too far down to the floor, something about the o ring going over the corroded part of the shaft in the cylinder itself. Well my question is how do you know for sure that it is the master cylinder. Oh and by the way my anti-lock and my brake lights were on already and is still on at the present time, so I don't know if something was already out of place or not, but everything went back together just fine. The car stops ok but not like it use to. What could've happened?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[BXX]

Ive been bored lately seemin I have no job.. You should drop by me in Medina, i can led a hand re-bleeding and the getting the calipers set. As in if the parking brake doesnt work, you have to manually actuate the calipers. Otherwise they take forever to adjust..

 

Also, the brake pedal tend to get a bit better after about 100 miles or so as everything beds in..

 

Just sounds like maybe a bit more air, but mainly the calipers arent adjusted out

 

-Bob

 

 

[thatcutteeboy]

The e brake mechanism was not working,shot some PB Blaster on the gear and tapped it with a hammer now they work. the red brake light is now off. The abs light comes on when I start the car and goes off now, but when I start to drive it comes back on. It used to stay on at all times, I took the ABS relay out and cleaned the terminals up(they were a bit corroded) and that's when the light went out, but like I stated previousily it comes back on when I start driving. I checked all plugs going to the wheels and they all appear to be fine. Could it be a dirty or rusty sensor at the wheels. I replaced the rear wheel bearings while doing the rear brake system. The car sat for a period of a year or so outside as per the guy that I got it from. Thanks for your help.

[xtremerevolution]

Out of curiosity, what pads did you use?

[thatcutteeboy]

Out of curiosity, what pads did you use?

Why do you ask? I Don't know I got everything off a car at Pull A Part but it was all brand new Calipers, Pads, and Rotors and the wheel bearings. The only reason I did that is because I had bought something from them previousily and took it back and they do not give money back only credits, so I patiently waited and got all this stuff for $63.00. It's apparent that someone had just did all of this to their car before it died or whatever. That sucks for them but not me. OH and by the way the pedal is back to normal, my concern now is the ABS light because I want everything to work like it should. Thanks for your help.

[slick]

No matter what pads or rotors (unless they are thinner), that should not affect the distance that the pedal travel's before any sort of braking is done. Pedal feel will be affected though.

 

Sounds like you need to bleed the brakes more. If you had it all apart, you most likely got air pockets up in the master cylinder, and into the ABS stuff too. Driving and rebleeding (moving the air around) seems to work the best.

 

That, or a power bleeder.

[xtremerevolution]

Slick, at one point I spent $60 for the best pads AutoZone had, the Duralast Gold Ceramics.

 

I put them in my car and there was a significant difference in how far the brake pedal had to go down before it would catch well enough to stop. You would feel some very slight braking, but it was an extremely soft pad. I replaced them with the Akebono pads I have on now and there was an immense difference. Its not even funny how horribly far I had to push that brake pedal, and this is not the first time I had done brakes.