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Posted

My car is going through rear tires very fast. They are wearing on the inside and I am getting only about 7000 miles before they are showing cords. I have changed struts and hub bearings and need to do the trailing arms next. I suspect maybe just a 4 wheel alignment will do the trick? The car has the tranverse mounted leaf spring. does anyone have experience with this? I am on a tight budget and would like to do as much of it myself as I can. I am stumped on this one though.

Posted

Mileage? My guess bad bushings.. When's the last time it has had an alignment?

Posted

My car is going through rear tires very fast. They are wearing on the inside and I am getting only about 7000 miles before they are showing cords. I have changed struts and hub bearings and need to do the trailing arms next. I suspect maybe just a 4 wheel alignment will do the trick? The car has the tranverse mounted leaf spring. does anyone have experience with this? I am on a tight budget and would like to do as much of it myself as I can. I am stumped on this one though.

 

What kind of struts are you using? Is your rear monoleaf still holding up alright? These tend to sag sometimes, and when they do sag and the rear of the car sits too low, your camber changes and your wheels wear unevenly. Worn shocks can also cause premature tire wear. How old are they? Depending on the shock, you might have ovaled out strut mounts that would allow you to adjust the camber yourself with some trial and error. Worked for me perfectly.

 

Bad trailing arm bushings can also cause similar issues.

Posted

170,000 miles. Struts are stock replacements from napa. It definetly is sagging. Haven't had it aligned because I new it needed parts and i didn't want to get peeled by the alignment shop.

Posted

170,000 miles. Struts are stock replacements from napa. It definetly is sagging. Haven't had it aligned because I new it needed parts and i didn't want to get peeled by the alignment shop.

 

Yeah, a sagging leaf will definitely cause a serious camber change and cause your uneven wear. You won't be able to get it aligned without ovaling out the strut mounts if its sagging. I would honestly get a replacement leaf spring.

Posted

Replacement struts typically have slotted knuckle bolt holes to allow for camber adjustment.

 

If you didnt get an alignment after installing the new struts, I recommend you do so.

Posted

Dumb question, but how is toe adjusted on monoleaf first gens?

Posted

Dumb question, but how is toe adjusted on monoleaf first gens?

 

88 and some 89 actually had cambolts equipped in the rearward mount lateral arm at the subframe from the factory. After that, its just a bolt through there, but the subframe is slotted to allow for toe adjustment..

 

Toe will wear out tires faster than camber

Posted

this may be off topic, but ever since I replaced my monoleaf I've noticed my rear tires sit sorta like this \ / is there any adjustment for that. I've put about 3k on the car like this and the tires seem to be wearing pretty normal.

Posted

this may be off topic, but ever since I replaced my monoleaf I've noticed my rear tires sit sorta like this \ / is there any adjustment for that. I've put about 3k on the car like this and the tires seem to be wearing pretty normal.

 

As in a camber or toe issue??

 

 

Camber is adjusted by the strut being slotted (either aftermarkets already are or you need to slot them) or installing cambolts in non-slotted struts. If your struts are slotted and they were obviously removed or the bolts have been loosened, you will easily screw up camber. It should always be re-aligned

 

Tie is adjusted by the rearward mount lateral link, the subframe is slotted.

Posted

i'm not willing to slot my struts. that is totally off the table.

 

Like i've said before I know jack about alignments, but i just know on my old car if i looked at it from the rear the rear tires sorta looked like this / \ but now with this TGP leaf in mine the rear sits a bit different like that \ / my old leaf was totally shot and the factory struts were not slotted at any point.

Posted

i'm not willing to slot my struts. that is totally off the table.

 

Like i've said before I know jack about alignments, but i just know on my old car if i looked at it from the rear the rear tires sorta looked like this / \ but now with this TGP leaf in mine the rear sits a bit different like that \ / my old leaf was totally shot and the factory struts were not slotted at any point.

 

Then purchase cambolts... Napa carries them, about $20 per kit, you need 2 of them (1 per side)

 

Should allow for up to +/- 1.5 or 2* of adjustment

 

Wacky camber settings screw up handling :wink:

 

I dont know why you wont slot the struts, but ok.. its an approved method. Cambolts are easier to use though and set everything, and its more likely to hold the alignment (hit something hard enough and a slotted unit can slip a bit)

Posted

Slot just the bottom holes. Or use longer 2nd gen lateral links.

Posted

Slot just the bottom holes. Or use longer 2nd gen lateral links.

 

Still gonna need to be able to adjust camber with Gen 2 links :wink:

 

Sooo, lets make it simple with these 3 options

 

-Slot lower strut holes

-Purchase and install cambolt kits

-Dont do anything and deal with subpar handling and abnormal tire wear

 

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Posted

Right now I have a ax to grind with the guy who has done my alignments in the past, so I need to find someone else who knows their ass from a hole in the ground.

 

I don't even know if what my car is doing is wrong, I suppose getting it checked would go far.

 

Posted

Right now I have a ax to grind with the guy who has done my alignments in the past, so I need to find someone else who knows their ass from a hole in the ground.

 

I don't even know if what my car is doing is wrong, I suppose getting it checked would go far.

 

 

Well I would do it correctly for ya for nothing, but I dont work in a shop anymore :lol:

 

GM calls for ZERO degrees of camber in the rear, so if they arent 100% straight up and down, it needs adjusted (I run about .5* negative camber for handling though)

Posted

I just don't get what would throw it off from a leafspring change... only differece is I am using those stupid white puck things cause the spring I put in didn't have any rubber ones on it anymore.

Posted

I just don't get what would throw it off from a leafspring change... only differece is I am using those stupid white puck things cause the spring I put in didn't have any rubber ones on it anymore.

 

Slight ride height change will change camber..

 

just use the info i gave you, make a desicion on what you want to do, and go get it adjusted properly

Posted

I may pull the spring back out and get new rubber pads and glue them on, and see what it does, hopefully bring the back end down a little.

 

thanks, I'll probably not worry about it this year as I barely drive the car, next season I'll most likely get it checked out.

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