Suspension, steering & brake overhaul on my 91 Int'l (94+ rear brake q's pg 2)

[GOT2B GM]

Both knuckle assembly's, upper bearing seats and lower spring seats was $60 CDN cash

[CSI_MuNkY]

How much does it cost to have something sandblasted like that?

 

I sand blasted the parts at school with the intention of Matt painting them, but then when I got them home he opted to go with powder coating instead. If the powder coater had to sand blast them as well it would of been around $100 I would think.

He charged me $80 each to sand blast and powder coat my wheels.

 

I think in all honesty if I was going to do a lot of parts I would buy a sand blaster for cheap and blast them all myself. It would probably pay for itself pretty quick when you consider how much it knocks down the price.

 

Jamie

[xtremerevolution]

How much does it cost to have something sandblasted like that?

 

I sand blasted the parts at school with the intention of Matt painting them, but then when I got them home he opted to go with powder coating instead. If the powder coater had to sand blast them as well it would of been around $100 I would think.

He charged me $80 each to sand blast and powder coat my wheels.

 

I think in all honesty if I was going to do a lot of parts I would buy a sand blaster for cheap and blast them all myself. It would probably pay for itself pretty quick when you consider how much it knocks down the price.

 

Jamie

 

Is this something you can snap onto an air compressor?

[CSI_MuNkY]

Yup, dunno what they go for though... I'm sure I could find a cheap one

 

yeah I just found a gun and hose on kijiji for $40, then you need the box to do it in, I have seen them at princess auto for less than $200...

 

Jamie

[xtremerevolution]

Yup, dunno what they go for though... I'm sure I could find a cheap one

 

yeah I just found a gun and hose on kijiji for $40, then you need the box to do it in, I have seen them at princess auto for less than $200...

 

Jamie

 

Well I have the air compressor. Do you need a special room to do it all in?

[CSI_MuNkY]

All depends on what you want to blast...

 

If you want to soda blast a car, yeah you need a room.

If your just doing parts like these, then a booth will do just fine

 

There is a grate inside that the parts sit on, the sand that comes out of the gun goes down into the bottom to be put back through the gun (notice how its tapered to the bottom like a funnel).

It has a pair of gloves so your not blasting your skin off inside there.

 

Jamie

[GOT2B GM]

 

Doh! I read "sandblasted", but thought "powdercoated" haha

 

Yeah Jamie sandblasted them for free for me. PC'ing was $60.

 

How much does it cost to have something sandblasted like that?

 

I sand blasted the parts at school with the intention of Matt painting them, but then when I got them home he opted to go with powder coating instead. If the powder coater had to sand blast them as well it would of been around $100 I would think.

He charged me $80 each to sand blast and powder coat my wheels.

 

I think in all honesty if I was going to do a lot of parts I would buy a sand blaster for cheap and blast them all myself. It would probably pay for itself pretty quick when you consider how much it knocks down the price.

 

Jamie

[intern8tion9l]

i'll be watching this thread. i have all the parts to swap the whole ebrake system from the pedal back, but no idea how it all goes together

[GutlessSupreme]

Yea I still have to set up my e-brake cables too on my car... my welder is coming this week so I can actually get to work on those brackets.

 

As for getting a sandblaster, no, for a cabinet it doesn't need it's own room, but frankly, it is going to make a mess anyway and there will be sand/powder all over everything. And don't cheap out on the gun and tips, you'll regret it. But it is a great thing to have.

[Garrett Powered]

I would just do it out in a gravely area or out in the yard. I always just use the cheapest media I can find. beach sand even. and sift it with a window screen.

 

then use a harbor freight cheap ass gun that doesn't work very well because the siphon hose gets kinks.

 

oh well, it takes twice as long but I don't want a cabinet like that taking up space. a nice blast cabinet would be handy to have but I wouldn't use it very often.

[mra32]

I have a homebrew solution for the E-Brake cables. Hairdo12 also made a post about his homebrew solution. If you are interested, i can snap some pics and show you.

[GOT2B GM]

well I pulled the complete 94+ rear setup off of my friend Ryan's 96 GP he's scrapping out.

 

the rear two cables (keeping my ratcheting pedal and front cable), both rear calipers & brackets, both rear brake hoses and the cable holder that was spot welded just in front of the rear suspension. Used a unibit in a cordless drill to remove that.

 

Please post pictures of your own solutions.

[White93z34]

Hopefully I'll be installing park brake cables tonight, if i do i'll take pictures.

[mra32]

No pics yesterday, I was busy getting my bike running right. I'll see what I can do today or tomorrow

[White93z34]

I got all the way out the the garage and remembered I left the camera by the door so I would not forget it.

 

but anyhow. here is the procedure as best I can describe it.

 

1. remove all the old cables except for the little cable that goes to the park brake pedal

2. drill out the spot welds holding the bracket closest to the trailing arm in place on the drivers side

 

with all that removed, remove and relocate the hook thing to right behind the pass side rear strut, and route the cables through that.

 

at this time do not re attach the bracket from the donor car

 

route the cables to their respective calipers, and park brake lever cable

 

try to route it through the holes left from the factory park brake cable to minimize sagging

 

then once those are in take the bracket it should line up fairly close to where the old one did, pull it just far enough forward that it takes out excess slack so the cable does not drop down.

 

4. use some self tapping sheet metal screws to affix it to the frame through the holes from the spot welds.

 

5. the cable that runs parallel to the monoleaf has one lone bolt hole to secure it to the car, drill a small hole in the back of the rear subframe, take one of the bolts that held the old cable to the car and use a socket and make it tap its own threads, then remove it and use a small 10mm ratchet wrench to affix it to the top of the monoleaf

[GOT2B GM]

thanks chris! I'll try to take pics when I do mine.

[White93z34]

I still have one more car to do shortly (shauns TGP), so maybe i'll remember then!

[GOT2B GM]

Can I reuse my old brake hoses?

[White93z34]

yep.

[GOT2B GM]

sweet. Are the caliper to knuckle bolts the same?

[White93z34]

no. you'll need those from the parts car.

[GOT2B GM]

kk good to know.

[mra32]

I've got pictures. I stopped at my parents house and used my mom's camera.

 

What I did was use the trailing arm bolt to mount a bracket on my car. The bracket had the perfect size holes to do this easily. I found the bracket at my shop, but you can buy them at mcmaster for under $5. They are called strut channel brackets.

 

I did have to cut the washer off of the trailing arm bolt, but thats about as involved as I got. The way that the bracket fit up against the body of the car assured me that there should be no was that the bracket should move when you apply the parking brake. I still do check the tightness of the bolt on there periodically, though and everything has been fine

 

Pics:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[GOT2B GM]

Ahhh that works too. Looks like it may hang a little low?

 

 

[mra32]

it does. I was thinking a differently shaped bracket (like one that is inline with the trailing arm bolt) would work better. I'm just happy that this car has a working parking brake for the first time in over 8 years.