Jump to content

Lateral link bushings


xtremerevolution

Recommended Posts

I ordered a set, but quickly realized I need another, since there are only 4 bushings in the first set.

 

Is it possible for me to press out the old bushings and press in the new ones by hand? Or do I absolutely need to find someone to press them out with an arbor/hydraulic press? Does anyone know of a method that would work?

 

I question the need for tubular lateral links, as the lateral forces against those isn't enough to actually flex the metal into itself, which is why I decided to go with new bushings instead of new lateral links.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For as cheap as it is, it's worth a shot.

 

If not, most every shop I know uses a hydraulic press.

 

Yeah, but they also charge a lot for the work, enough to where it would be cheaper for me to buy one of those. I just want to make sure I would have enough clearance for lateral link bushings and control arm bushings with that press.

 

Same exact press sells at harbor freight for $50...

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3552

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Physically, the ends of the control arms will fit, which should be your biggest concernt. However, keep in mind, they are like gigantic U's, so whatever you have that mounted to (preferably bolted down to a solid work bench), there cannot be anything underneath where you have it mounted, or you may not be able to "sit" the ends of the control arms down nice and flat. You don't want to do it at any angle, as you stand a high chance of bending it all up.

 

For another $40, I'd just buy this and be done with it: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4711

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Physically, the ends of the control arms will fit, which should be your biggest concernt. However, keep in mind, they are like gigantic U's, so whatever you have that mounted to (preferably bolted down to a solid work bench), there cannot be anything underneath where you have it mounted, or you may not be able to "sit" the ends of the control arms down nice and flat. You don't want to do it at any angle, as you stand a high chance of bending it all up.

 

For another $40, I'd just buy this and be done with it: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4711

 

I don't want something quite that big, as I don't have anywhere to keep it. At least the smaller ones would work alright. If I bolted it to a workbench, I would have some room underneath it to work. I would also be taking it with me to Chicago when I go.

 

So you're saying I should be able to work on the trailing arms and control arms with the cheaper one?

 

Do I need any other special plates or accessories to get the job done? I'm assuming I do...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll have to see if they have any of the adapters, but otherwise, you may have to shop around for those.

 

I would hope 1000lbs would be enough, but you'd be suprised. During aggressive/rough driving, they may get a stronger force than that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll have to see if they have any of the adapters, but otherwise, you may have to shop around for those.

 

I would hope 1000lbs would be enough, but you'd be suprised. During aggressive/rough driving, they may get a stronger force than that.

 

True, but certainly not laterally, otherwise my arms would be broken, lol.

 

What would those adapters look like? I'm assuming you can't just press right into the rubber bushing as that simply won't hold, so you need something that will press right against the outer sleeve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if it can be done with a vice, I think that's what i'll do. i'd rather spend $50 on a vice anyway. I'll try the ones we have at the garage first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

If it's a tapered bushing how did you fit it through the bore? Or is the rubber that flexible?

 

Also how did you get the front bushings in since you need to drop the gas tank to remove the bolts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's a tapered bushing how did you fit it through the bore? Or is the rubber that flexible?

 

Also how did you get the front bushings in since you need to drop the gas tank to remove the bolts?

 

You don't need to drop the gas tank to remove the bolts. It can be done. Its not easy, but it can be done. Takes a lot of persuasion. I ended up dropping the subframe a bit to get to them, which was stupidly easy. You should expect to have an alignment done after this.

 

The bushings aren't tapered. They plateau after a short distance when inserting, then they go in straight. The bushings themselves come with a sleeve, so you're only hammering that in. Put the bar on top of a large socket, then get a hammer and bash that thing in. Takes all of 5 minutes to remove one and hammer in the other, with absolutely no damage to the arms.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, dropping the subframe takes under 45 minutes including removing the lateral links. I did mine to swap over my Gen 2 arms, and Venoms when he did the Gen 2 arms and ES bushings for them.

 

An alignment is a definate thing. Unbolting any suspension component will require and alignment afterwards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...