Radnsmash Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 Solid SES light. First time Ive ever seen it. So i pull into an empty parking lot, put it in park, and notice that the RPMS are bouncing up and down. Either way, I had to drive it home with that dreadful orange light. I also noticed a loss of power after the light came on. What do you guys think? AND IF IT MATTERS... I recently(Monday) filled my tank and threw some STP Fuel injector Cleaner in. A little over a week ago(Thursday I think), I threw in some Gunk ValveMedic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 Scan for codes. No use guessing what the problem could be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnsmash Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 Alright I'll do that tomorrow. fucking car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloick Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 i guess maf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnsmash Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 i guess maf Good guess! that was the code. Gonna try cleaning it with that CRC stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloick Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 i guess maf Good guess! that was the code. Gonna try cleaning it with that CRC stuff. its never worked for me. more like a band-aid. buy a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 I have a good MAF from a 3.4L sitting in my shed. Are they interchangeable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sloick Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloChick Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 i guess maf Good guess! that was the code. Gonna try cleaning it with that CRC stuff. Clean out the TB tubing area and see if that helps. I had the same code a couple years ago and that did the trick. I used a can of compressed air to blow the gunk out with pipe cleaners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnsmash Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 i guess maf Good guess! that was the code. Gonna try cleaning it with that CRC stuff. Clean out the TB tubing area and see if that helps. I had the same code a couple years ago and that did the trick. I used a can of compressed air to blow the gunk out with pipe cleaners. Do you mean like the rubber tubing going from the air box to the TB? or the TB itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 i guess maf Good guess! that was the code. Gonna try cleaning it with that CRC stuff. Clean out the TB tubing area and see if that helps. I had the same code a couple years ago and that did the trick. I used a can of compressed air to blow the gunk out with pipe cleaners. Do you mean like the rubber tubing going from the air box to the TB? or the TB itself? I'm sure both could use cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloChick Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 i guess maf Good guess! that was the code. Gonna try cleaning it with that CRC stuff. Clean out the TB tubing area and see if that helps. I had the same code a couple years ago and that did the trick. I used a can of compressed air to blow the gunk out with pipe cleaners. Do you mean like the rubber tubing going from the air box to the TB? or the TB itself? Take the intake tubing out and get right in the TB itself. Weird, yes.. since it's the MAF code but it worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnsmash Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 Yeah @ 119K I'm sure both could use cleaning too. I'll get around to that, since I don't have the right torx for the MAF sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 12, 2009 Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 I've cleaned my MAF sensor every time, and its worked, every time. Who the hell wants to pay $150 for a new one anyway? I used q-tips, alcohol, and a VERY steady hand. Worked every time. Regal now has 203k miles on it with the original MAF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnsmash Posted July 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 After cleaning the MAF with CRC's product, it ran steady(no light and minimal hesitations) for a day or 2, but today was the worst. Was driving home from playing some basketball when I started noticing hesitations, and sure enough the light came back on. I stalled twice getting to my friends house, and on the way home, I stalled 3 times(not even a 5 mile distance to get home). So the decision to replace my MAF was made. A Cardone factory refurbished with a 1 year warranty, along with a new Purolator PureONE Air Filter. $175 or so altogether. Before making the decision, I took MonteCarloChick's advice and checked the TB+Intake tubing to find that they were both damn near spotless. Well you figure for an 11 year old car, these things happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 After cleaning the MAF with CRC's product, it ran steady(no light and minimal hesitations) for a day or 2, but today was the worst. Was driving home from playing some basketball when I started noticing hesitations, and sure enough the light came back on. I stalled twice getting to my friends house, and on the way home, I stalled 3 times(not even a 5 mile distance to get home). So the decision to replace my MAF was made. A Cardone factory refurbished with a 1 year warranty, along with a new Purolator PureONE Air Filter. $175 or so altogether. Before making the decision, I took MonteCarloChick's advice and checked the TB+Intake tubing to find that they were both damn near spotless. Well you figure for an 11 year old car, these things happen. Did you clean the MAF with rubbing alcohol and q-tips? Did you actually rubanything off of the sensors? Or did you just spray something on it and hope for the best? I've cleaned a MAF sensor on my 95 Regal 3.8, a 96 Altima, a 98 Windstar 3.8, a 01 Dakota 4.7, and a 02 Camry 4 cyl, and NONE of those people have had a problem with their MAF since then. I did the exact same thing with all of them; rubbing alcohol and q-tips. I've never touched a MAF that couldn't be fixed using this method, and I've never had a MAF that I cleaned fail on anyone or have problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnsmash Posted July 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 I sprayed that CRC stuff on it, but when I took it out, it looked pretty damn clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 15, 2009 Report Share Posted July 15, 2009 spraying won't do a thing. you need to rub off the particles that are causing the incorrect reading. these things are extremely sensitive. when you rub it off, you'll notice at least a bit of dirt, and that's all it takes. sometimes you don't even see any dirt coming off, but it fixes the poblem just the same. those sprays and cleaners are meant to be used as preventative maintenance every few thousand miles to prevent this problem, not to solve the problem after 100k of not doing anything. I highly advise that you take it off again and clean it using q tips and alcohol, rubbing it lightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnsmash Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 I already have a new MAF, But I'll be sure to use the CRC MAF Cleaner every 10K or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 I just used our throttlebody cleaner that we have at work made by 3M Professional Products.. No rubbing needed... Just keep spraying it.. You should NEVER touch the MAF hotwires with anything... They are extremely fragile... Any REAL mechanic will tell you that. All that is needed is good cleaning spray.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 I just used our throttlebody cleaner that we have at work made by 3M Professional Products.. No rubbing needed... Just keep spraying it.. You should NEVER touch the MAF hotwires with anything... They are extremely fragile... Any REAL mechanic will tell you that. All that is needed is good cleaning spray.. Apparently, you need more than a good cleaning spray, given the existence of this thread. As for them being fragile, I agree they are fragile, but they're not THAT fragile. I've cleaned mine 3 times so far and haven't broken a thing, nor have I broken one from any other car, nor have I met anyone who's broken one while cleaning it. These things are made of metal, not medieval glass. I already have a new MAF, But I'll be sure to use the CRC MAF Cleaner every 10K or so. And you can't return it if this fixes the problem? IMO 2 q-tips and a few drops of rubbing alcohol will cost you a lot less than $175, even if you do incur restocking fees. I would highly suggest giving it a try. You really have nothing to lose. If it works, you can get some of that $175 back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShockTherapy Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 doubt he can return it dude, sensors and electrical anything are usually sold with no refunds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 I've gotta agree with xtreme on this one... I've never been able to fully clean an extremely dirty MAF without some form of contact with the sensors. You'd think it "looks" clean after spraying it down with the solvent, but rubbing (LIGHTLY) with a Q tip or cloth will reveal more buildup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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