dodgethis Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Hey I am so close in getting this factory OEM Keyless entry to work. I have used Cubsfan write up on installing the keyless into the lumina. http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=79508.0 The RKE brain does work and the FObs do work but the problem I run into is when i get into the car and press the unlock/lock switch on the drivers side door I loose the RKE, the Door lock switch and drivers and passengers side, and dome light when you enter the vehicle. I can scroll the intermitten light wheel and I can get the dome light to come on so I don't think I have blown a fuse. I have actually checked all fuses and everything is fine and not blown. I have disconnected the battery and waited and then reconnected it and the RKE brain will work and will accept my FOB's as normal. I just run into the problem where I loose the Keyless when I interact with the drivers side door. I am curious as to what all of you think on what I could have done wrong. I have tapped into the orange wire from the drivers side door that runs down to the carpet. All of the wires I have hooked up are consistent to the writeup however I did not tap in from the Lock relay. I had issues trying to get my hands around the wiring on the passengers side so I ran it from the drivers side. I wonder if i might be putting too much load on that one side and that's why its freaking out when i press the door lock switch. I am not sure however. Can you guys help me out, or give me your thoughts on this? I swear If I can just figure out whats going on it with a couple wires I would be set with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Hey just found out some more information about the car. I know I said I lost power locks, Dome light, and keyless. Well I did check the fuses again and I blew a 10 Amp fuse on the power locks. I went ahead and replaced it and the power locks came back like normal. I kept unlocking and locking the door and them pop the fuse went. I have the fuse out and wont be replacing until what im going to do now. Because I am blowing the fuse to the power door locks. I guess it would be smart to say that I am putting too much load on the drivers side where I had tapped in the orange wire for the power to the lock acutators. So I need to find another spot to get my power for the locks. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Definitely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubsfan24 Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 If you look at the wiring diagram, if you tied your orange wire into the drivers side and not into the lock relay like I did then you tied it into the 10A Fuse #19. The lock relay orange wire is #32 and is 20A. Tie your orange wire into right before the lock relay. Here is the wiring diagram if you are to lazy to look in my original post: http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7569/1998lumina.jpg As far as the Pink wire, I can't tell you if you have the right one but I don't think you need to connect that up if you don't care if the dome light comes on when you unlock the car with the remote. Maybe someone else can comment on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 If you look at the wiring diagram, if you tied your orange wire into the drivers side and not into the lock relay like I did then you tied it into the 10A Fuse #19. The lock relay orange wire is #32 and is 20A. Tie your orange wire into right before the lock relay. Here is the wiring diagram if you are to lazy to look in my original post: http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7569/1998lumina.jpg As far as the Pink wire, I can't tell you if you have the right one but I don't think you need to connect that up if you don't care if the dome light comes on when you unlock the car with the remote. Maybe someone else can comment on this. Posted on: June 24, 2009, 07:01:14 PM Cubs your right. My ignorant's never ceases to amaze me. I hope who ever decided to wire up the car with rke that they don't make my mistake. I guess i'll be changing to the 20 amp wire. I can't believe I didn't see that, there are two orange wires and I didnt take the time to look closely to see they had different currents ratings runing through them. That explains why I am blowing 10amps, and should be hooking into the 20 amp fuse or throught the orange wire from the lock relay. Damn, thats all I can say is damn..... :dunce: :dunce: PHAIL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Damn I thought I had this thing taken care of. I had disconnected the wire I originally had (The Orange wire going to the 10A fuse) and hooked up a new wire running from the lock relay with the 20 amp wire (2nd Orange Wire). When I had did that I went to buy a 10 Amp fuse to replace the one that blew in the slot 19 point. It blew as soon as i pressed the unlock button. I am at a loss now because I don't know what would make it blow so quickly. I made sure that the wire I cut (The 10amp orange wire) was taking care of (meaning it has been taken out of circuit, so don't need to worry about it) The only thing I can possibly thing of is cutting the pink wire from what I thought it is to be connect i.e. Pink to Pink. I will try that and cut it sense I really don't care if I don't get the Illuminated entry when I unlock the car with the fob. I did check the schematic about the white, and lt blue would be ok from tapping it from the drivers side. I mean come on it was working fine, just kept blowing fuses, shit it should be working even after moving the orange wire to the 20 amp fuse and I should be good to go. What the hell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubsfan24 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Sorry to hear about your issues. So you switched the orange over to the orange wire right before the lock relay like in the picture of mine? Hmmm I wouldn't think that the placement of the light blue/white wires would matter by looking at the diagram but mabey it does. Also, does the fuse only pop when unlocking the car? Can you hit the lock button 100 times and not have the fuse blow? Are you sure you have all the wires secured well with no open wire that could cause a short? Does the fuse only blow when you unlock the car with the remote or does the fuse blow when you hit the switch on the door also? Sorry this must be 101 questions day. There must be a logical explanation to why the fuses are blowing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted June 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Yes I have the orange wires hooked right into the orange wire from the lock relay harness. I dont think the lock and unlock wires really matter on what side just by how the digram reads. The fuse does not blow as soon as I put it in, it does blow if I press the lock or unlock button (up or down) and It will blow. It also will do it whether its on the driver side switch or passenger side switch. I am going to go back and look through the wiring again and make sure that everything is cool and hope that nothing some how touching and causing an issue. I know one thing I will do is cut that pink wire that I tapped since I know I wont be using the illuminated entry. I know the grounds are fine since it all worked before when I would press the fob and it would work but until I pressed a lock switch it blew. I am not to worry about because I am sure its something simple and stupid that causing the issue. I can't wait to get this thing fixed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 Hey guys, aside from the RKE install I got it fixed everything is fixed. I wanted to ask everyone who had a 95-2001 lumina, or monte if they ever had an issue with the FUSE #19. I noticed when I unlock/lock the door switch more than once I blow the 10amp fuse. I have had issues with this before I even attempted to install RKE. The cool part about the 19 point fuse is it only takes care about the unlock/lock door switch in the car and the light inside the trunk compartment. I can still unlock/lock doors with the fob with no problems but the the fuse 19 has got me wondering about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubsfan24 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 When you removed your after market keyless entry did you remove all the wires and make sure you taped them up real good so non of them could short out? I am thinking whoever installed the aftermarket unit scrued something up. There is probably a short somewhere. So when you bought your car the fuse 19 would blow every once in a while? I can hit my lock or unlock buttons (on door or remote) several times without the fuse blowing. I guess I have never tried to press it like 10 times in a row but I have presses it several times before without issues. Mabey someone else can help you out since car electrical wiring isn't my expertise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 Well dang, I guess whoever who had wired up the car with aftermarket rke had some how put more load onto it for some reason. Thats great your car is not affected. I havent taken any wiring out from whoever wired the car up last I just got the brain out. I would think when i took the brain out that it wouldn't put any load on the 19 fuse. Damn I guess I will have to take a step back and think about it. I guess its cool in a way because I can control who can get out before someone can think about pulling the manual unlock lock from the door while they are first think of pushing the button Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubsfan24 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 Well this is interesting. I went out to my car today to test to see if I could hit the unlock or lock button enough times to pop my #19 fuse. I hit my lock button on my door 5 or 6 times and it was fine. Then I pressed the unlock button 4 times and I heard the fuse pop. I replaced the fuse and the lock works but the unlock doesn't work at all. If you press the unlock button enough the fuse will blow. Oh my keyless entry still works great. dodgethis: is this similar to your issue? I am thinking we blew out our lock relays. Next time I go to the junkyard I am going to get another lock relay. I don't know what else it could be. Does anyone else have any suggestions to what went bad? Thanks a lot dodgethis, now I have to do more work on my car (and another excuse to go to the junkyard ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted June 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 Oops, Well see I thought somewhere along the lines that maybe the aftermarket wiring is pulling from the orange wire (the 10Amp) but I don't see how cuz i pulled out the brain and so I just have wiring stashed up there. They are taped up pretty good so that don't touch each other or ground each other out. About the locks acting weird. I can say that when I press the lock button on the door it will last longer than the unlock button. The weird thing is I can replace the fuse i remember looking at one time while putting it in and it arced a little when i put it in. It didn't blow luckly but I keep thinking that something is just pulling too much amps from that (10 amp orange wire). I will say that my keyless does work. I also need to hook up my trunk because of lack of time but I will do that soon. Personally I mean I thought about just putting the 10 amp fuse on #19 and "DO NOT TOUCH THE SWITCH" and just leave it alone, so that I still have the trunk light compartment light on inside. Cubs what gives you the thought we might have blown the lock relay? I mean if we did we wouldnt be able to lock/unlock the doors with the fobs right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 OT a bit...but the Suzuki Swift+ had a TSB in 2004 for power locks fuse blowing. Guess what the appropriate repair was lol?? Put in a higher amp fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubsfan24 Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 OT a bit...but the Suzuki Swift+ had a TSB in 2004 for power locks fuse blowing. Guess what the appropriate repair was lol?? Put in a higher amp fuse. I thought about that but my unlock doesn't work at all from the door now. I press it a few times and it blows the fuse. I had to have blown the unlock relay in the lock relay box by pressing it really fast The lock still works fine and wont blow the fuse. Going to go to the j/y tomorrow to get another lock relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted June 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 OT a bit...but the Suzuki Swift+ had a TSB in 2004 for power locks fuse blowing. Guess what the appropriate repair was lol?? Put in a higher amp fuse. I thought about that but my unlock doesn't work at all from the door now. I press it a few times and it blows the fuse. I had to have blown the unlock relay in the lock relay box by pressing it really fast The lock still works fine and wont blow the fuse. Going to go to the j/y tomorrow to get another lock relay. Well regardless I think getting a relay would be a better deal. I thought about putting in a higher fuse say a 15 amp but I swear theres a reason why GM thought it be smart to use a 10 AMp when straight down the row in the fuse box there are 15 AMP fuses stacked on top of each other. I am going to do the same at my local yard so your not alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubsfan24 Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 Ok, went to the junkyard today and got a lock relay. That didn't fix it. Tried another switch and it still didn't work. I unplugged the RKE receiver and the unlock on the door worked! Went and got another RKE receiver and plug that in. The unlock doesn't work again. I said screw it and started going home. When I was leaving the junkyard the unlock on the door started working again! I got home and everything was working good until I shut the passenger door and the unlock on the door stopped working again. I think I fixed it by running a new wire to outside the drivers door unlock white wire. This has seemed to fix the issue. I think when I went psycho on the unlock button it screwed up that wire tap possibly or maybe it screwed up the wire. I have no clue why running a new wire fixed it but I am happy that it works again..... for now atleast. Dodgethis, I don't know what else to tell you but maybe try running new wires to a different location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgethis Posted July 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 I am glad you got it fixed. I think when we had tied the two wires into the white wire It must be putting load on the switch. I know when I cycle the locks from the fob I run risk of blowing the fuse. I am not too worried about it. So I will look into it further when I get time. When I go to the j/k I'll see how the OEM RKE is wired for giggles to get a better understanding how the driver door opens on first call by the fob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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