kuntzie Posted June 11, 2009 Report Posted June 11, 2009 so i got an alignment done since i lowered and did the trans swap on the 2001.. even before lowering the rear passenger side was definitly not right, it was smooth and drove well but it just stickes out... far. anywyas.. i thought an alignment would fix this.... drivers side... looks good.. some camber but its not bad at all.. passenger side... as you can tell there is something not right. bofore i go any further... the rims are al the same, i confirmed by swaping them aswell BUT... there is about 1" or so inner clearance on the drivers side... which is accutate to my calculations (8" + 38mm offset vs stock 7.5 @ ~ 50mm) and the passenger side has about 3" of clearance to the strut... i dont know if maybe the knuckle/ strut assembly are from a different model year or model in general and causing this problem... as you can see the passenger side tire is out WAY to far.. the strut was replaced ( f0rge? danger d?) give me some input if one of you changed it... anyways, one of the lower strut to kuuckle bolts was shaved down... like the part that grips into the kunckle, so i thought that was very weird aswell (i fixed this though already) any input is appreciated... the car drives fine but this is really a pain in the a$$... also FWIW.. the body is original, no repair or anything making this just a body line issue rather then a suspension issue.. Quote
jeremy Posted June 11, 2009 Report Posted June 11, 2009 actually, to me it looks like the driver's side wheel is "tucked" in too far too....based on how the 077s fit on my GTP anyway... Quote
kuntzie Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Posted June 11, 2009 pics?? also the trailing arm is alot more rusty on the passenger side.. as is the strut ect, i wonder if something happenned back there and they replace it will crappy parts. Quote
GP4U2NV Posted June 11, 2009 Report Posted June 11, 2009 You did an alignment so I dont think it is a rear toe adjustment. But, it is possible that one of the following happend: 1) The strut that is installed the mount is not located the same. 3 holes doesnt mean that it will fit in there in anyway. all 3 sides are not the same. 2) one strut is bent. Quote
jeremy Posted June 11, 2009 Report Posted June 11, 2009 pics?? I don't have any straight on shots nor do I still have the car to go take some or I would....maybe one of the other guys with them could hook you up with better pics, but here is the best one I had Quote
5speedz34 Posted June 11, 2009 Report Posted June 11, 2009 When you got an alignment did you do a 2 wheel or a 4 wheel? Quote
kuntzie Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Posted June 12, 2009 4 wheel... and jeremy, i think my drivers side is still closer then ur but its hard to tell.. nowering the car makes a difference so it will tuk away up top more.. and that still doesnt explain the inner clearance to the strut... why is the passenger one like 3" and the drivers about 1" or so.. Quote
kuntzie Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Posted June 12, 2009 the mother fuckers didnt do shit at all.. FUCK! the lateral links are untouched. not adjusted whatso ever.. an why was the strut so far apart! because... look at these lateral links.. do they look like they have been adjusted recently?? 100% no, not a chance.. but look at this strut bolt hole comparison.... why has this beeen moved and why can i fit my finger in between on the passenger side?? this would explain the top sticking out to far! Quote
GOT2B GM Posted June 12, 2009 Report Posted June 12, 2009 Take it back to the alignment shop and tell them to try again Quote
kuntzie Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Posted June 12, 2009 Take it back to the alignment shop and tell them to try again im just going to tell them to give me my money back and to go fuck them selfs as there was clearly no effort into the rear of the car. Quote
GOT2B GM Posted June 12, 2009 Report Posted June 12, 2009 that works too Honestly check out Queensway Autobody on Belmont. They specialize in repairing vehicles requiring use of the frame rack. They will be able to dial your suspension in, no problem. Quote
BXX Posted June 12, 2009 Report Posted June 12, 2009 the strut has been slotted to adjust camber once upon a time.. its factory appoved also.. Quote
kuntzie Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Posted June 12, 2009 the strut has been slotted to adjust camber once upon a time.. its factory appoved also.. unless both strut holes have been modified (ill look into this tomorrow) this will still have the bottom part of the tire out to far.. the lateral link, only 1 is adjustable so i can bring the tire in on both sides of it, unless there is something up with the strut mount aswell, then i would be able to get it close to the same as the other side i think. any input? a strut is easy to get another one if this ones not workign for me. Quote
BXX Posted June 12, 2009 Report Posted June 12, 2009 the strut has been slotted to adjust camber once upon a time.. its factory appoved also.. unless both strut holes have been modified (ill look into this tomorrow) this will still have the bottom part of the tire out to far.. the lateral link, only 1 is adjustable so i can bring the tire in on both sides of it, unless there is something up with the strut mount aswell, then i would be able to get it close to the same as the other side i think. any input? a strut is easy to get another one if this ones not workign for me. Im not sure what your saying.. Seeming those look ancient and apprear to be factory and were hogged out to adjust camber, I recommend getting a set of KYBs (already slotted) and have it aligned.. Theres nothing wrong except camber is way outta spec... The car just needs a proper alignment.. Trust me, thats the main part of my job, alignment technician... There is a chance they didnt touch the rear as toe was in spec, but some kids who are lazy or dont know what to do wouldnt have touched rear camber adjustment.. Also, when you take it to a real shop to be aligned, ask for the prior to alignment readout that shows spec AND tolerance... Tell them you dont want it in tolerance, you want it in SPEC!! Any good alignment tech will see its in tolerance and still adjust it to spec which the the proper way to do things.. I can set ANY car's alignment into tolerance, and have it pull like a bitch, drive sideways, or have it wear out the tires within 5000 miles... Quote
kuntzie Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Posted June 12, 2009 edit* i guess a good question are if thes "specs" are accurate for this car or not, my vin number, make ect, arent even on this paper.. just" 2001 grand prix" also i have the vechicle alignment report here... my camber was fine on both side on the rear, but as you can tell they did not attempt to adjust the toe on the right side at all, even though it was in the red. ( you can se in the pics they didnt adjust at all aswell) also you can see the camber isnt bad. along with all the other reds, this sucks. top section is front, bottom section is back.... also.. this bolt was in the car before i lowered it.. on the passenger side. anyways.. if the top bolt would have been in the factory spot, it would bring the top of the tire in right? this would cause more camber but with the toe also being off, and proably more so when the bolt get put back in its normal spot, woudnt this bring the tire back in properly or? Quote
BXX Posted June 12, 2009 Report Posted June 12, 2009 So my recommedation is to do this.. Either make sure BOTH struts are slotted to allow for camber adjustment, or replace them with aftermarkets that are already slotted Take it in for an alignement and ask for a printout showing the measurments prior to the alignment Have them align it. Look at the final printout, if everything isnt extremely close to spec, have them redo it.. I would watch them at that point.. Tolerance isnt correct!!! Just in case you are wondering, they will be adjusting everything in these steps.. RR Camber LR Camber LR Toe RR Toe RF Camber LF Camber RF Toe LF Toe I didnt add caster in as its not adjustable on our cars.. If its out, its either cause the cradle has shifted and isnt aligned anymore, or the control arm, knuckle, cradle is bent Normally caster is adjusted before front camber and toe.. Hope I cleared a few things up and now you can go to get an alignment armed with some knowledge on how its done and whats correct Quote
BXX Posted June 12, 2009 Report Posted June 12, 2009 Ok, I know exactly what they did.. So they didnt have to adjust rear camber, they moved the targets to make it into spec.. Ive seen it done.. I never have done it as I have enough morals to do the job right.. Rear toe wasnt done, they obviously only did a thrust angle alignment at that (front toe) They did a shitty job on front toe.. With the wheel level, both the front toe measurements should be exactly the same.. And your subframe needs adjusted... Its too far forward and sitting a little to the right.. That would correct caster and help front camber a bit.. Notice how the RR camber final measurement has changed... Someone bumped a target back a little prior to hitting print Fuckin hackjobs... Find a trusted alignment shop and take it there... Money well spent.. And by looking at your SIA/SAI, it tells me your cradle isnt much to the right, the front camber needs adjusting by slotting the front struts if they already arent... Quote
kuntzie Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Posted June 12, 2009 do you know what the exact specs should be then? thanks for your help... and im aware the subframe could be out a little as its been removed before... so is the RR easily fixable to be able to match the drivers side? as stated before camber doesnt bother me, but everything else does. Quote
kuntzie Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Posted June 12, 2009 2 more alignments later and a bunch of bitching,, its now done.. result.. guy at mufflerman got fired, on the spot... once again he did not adjust the toe, he faked it... anyywas got my money back as i told them they pissed me off 1 too many times... much better! id much rather have camber then a non straight tire.. Quote
jeremy Posted June 12, 2009 Report Posted June 12, 2009 that looks better, but I certainly would get the camber corrected...it will eat tires like no tomorrow... Quote
tornado_735 Posted July 4, 2009 Report Posted July 4, 2009 Huh, I have that little squat too. I thought the monoleaf was just beginning to sag. Quote
terryk2003 Posted July 6, 2009 Report Posted July 6, 2009 that camber looks bad...i think i'd get that fixed... Quote
92 GP Posted July 7, 2009 Report Posted July 7, 2009 good explanation 1 loud cutty! I"ve seen shit done like that before too...fortunately now i'm in a better shop in town. And yes, bad camber, especially in the rear will destroy tires. Usually lack of ratation can eat up the insides of whatever's up front, but even if you're rotating with camber like that in the rear, you're tires are gonna be toasted! Quote
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