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Posted

I need some help and some questions answeered.

 

I have limited time for a rear suspension repair.

 

I am looking for someone that is using coil over sleeve and nut with springs and stock upper mount.

Posted

im just using all qa1 parts off the net... i can get u part # of everything, just need to look them up

 

Posted

I need some help and some questions answeered.

 

I have limited time for a rear suspension repair.

 

I am looking for someone that is using coil over sleeve and nut with springs and stock upper mount.

 

ME!!

 

 

Throw me all youre questions!!

Posted

I have to get the back end up asap.

 

I have the KYB's. I have the varyable rear springs from QA1

 

I need the collers and nut, and a mount.

 

Can I just rock the stock upper mounts?

Can I just rock new upper mounts?

What was the final coller and nut that we all found to be best? I dont want to hone it out.

Posted

I have to get the back end up asap.

 

I have the KYB's. I have the varyable rear springs from QA1

 

I need the collers and nut, and a mount.

 

Can I just rock the stock upper mounts?

Can I just rock new upper mounts?

What was the final coller and nut that we all found to be best? I dont want to hone it out.

 

Here is the progressive rate spring QA1 has

 

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/QA1-Precision-Products/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Part-Type/Coil-Over-Springs/Inside-Diameter-in/2-500-in/Length-in/12-000-in/Progressive-Rate-Spring/Yes/?Ns=Rank|Asc

 

The coilover sleeve I listed DOES NOT need to be honed out on KYBs.. I found out by trial and error with other sleeves.. The ones I posted are good to go!!

 

You can use stock mounts, my thread shows exactly what to do.. They work fine. I thought they were making noise over hard hard bumps, but it turns out it was my mufflers hitting my trunk! :lol:

 

I would get new stock mounts... Odds are the ones you are taking off are junk..

 

Just get the cheapest stock ones around. It wont be too much longer until I get to buying a set of the custom mounts I designed that Mark will be having made.. I can then test them and get back with more feedback

Posted

I have the QA1 springs and ES Isolators.

 

I just need the sleeves. I have read that 5 inchers are best?

 

Your rocking the stock mounts. do you drive it? how many miles on them so far? any problems?

 

Posted

how many nuts are required?

 

Most coil overs require 2 per a strut?

 

Posted

I have the QA1 springs and ES Isolators.

 

I just need the sleeves. I have read that 5 inchers are best?

 

Your rocking the stock mounts. do you drive it? how many miles on them so far? any problems?

 

 

5" is plenty.. It gives more than enough adjustment... The 7" other people have used is NOT neccessary unless they want to lift it like a monster truck..

 

Ive had them on for over 6 months now or more I think... Ive put about 13000 miles on them.. No issues at all really. I would highly recommend having a strut tower brace though. I never tried them without as I didnt want to put undue stress on the towers.. Although our towers are quite strong enough to take the load of the car with coilovers without issue. Just a strut tower brace is guarenteed reinforcement..

 

I though I was getting a weird noise, almost like the mount was poppign with a hard thunk over hard bumps or big potholes, but after having my full exhaust redone, it went away!! :lol: Turns out my right muffler was banging my trunk well..

Posted

how many nuts are required?

 

Most coil overs require 2 per a strut?

 

 

Only 1 nut per strut...

 

 

Hey, that rhymes :lol:

 

It has a setscrew to keep it put (antiseize the hell outta everything!!!) I found out the hardway when it galled and stripped. I had to drill it out, and put in a much larger bolt for a set screw.. Which actually works out easier now..

 

The reason we only need one of these nuts as they are much much much thicker than the 2 thin ones that other coilovers use, espeically the cheap ricer ones.. The 1 we use is much more stable as the lower spring seat as the cheap 2 thin nuts..

Posted

Do you have any pictures?

 

 

Umm, in my coilover thread there are tons of pics..

Posted

I read your tread like a month ago.......

 

now i cant find it......where is it??

Posted

I read your tread like a month ago.......

 

now i cant find it......where is it??

 

I dunno, I just tried looking for it too :eek:

Posted

Those bearings are for the fronts I put together... Im just waiting on getting the front mounts I designed as well off Mark... Well, gotta send him the money so he can get a set made.. I designed mounts for front and rear..

 

Those cone shaped upper spring seats, ignore them. They were gonna be used in an original idea, but due to the strut rod diameter and load ratings, I couldnt go with the idea I originally wanted..

Posted

what about instead of using a es bushing or using it and what is in this picture?

 

IMG_1672.jpg

Posted

The bushing will help shut down some noise that may happen with the spring bare to a metal surface. While its bare at the bottom of the spring, there might be a greater chance of noise happening if you have both sides resting on bare metal..

 

Plus, nobody makes those upper seats pictured in the TDC setup...

 

Just easier to use the ES Isolators (they are cheap) and stock mounts until the proper custom ones can be purchased..

Posted

im running the same parts except the springs im using are 500s or 550s as i didnt want any movement back there.

Posted

im running the same parts except the springs im using are 500s or 550s as i didnt want any movement back there.

 

Drag racing im assuming???

 

Only reason you would want springs that stiff on our cars.. I didn spring rate calculations, even at hardcore roadracing you would only want a 425lb spring max...

 

300lb are good for a daily driver, whereas the variable rate ones I posted would be even better actually. Just when I needed springs the variables werent available..

 

And if you want to go with the best spring out there, get Hyperco springs.. They cost about $70each but are the best out there for quality, spring rates being much more accurate, and keeping the rate as advertised over the life of the spring..

Posted

I can purchase the proper ones right now......I just need them tooooo fast and I cant be the tester. I dont drive enough to test them, plus I am not taking out the stereo a bunch of times.

Posted

these are the ones that I am installing

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/12-175%252F350/10002/-1

 

175/305 varable rate.

 

Those should work great!! They were the ones I was thinking of getting, but I wanted to wait until I tear everything back apart when I do the custom mounts,,

 

Since I designed them, I should actually be the tester, plus I drive a lot on the highway and in town on rough roads..

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