Thinking about doing my front brakes now. One question.

[tornado_735]

Since I feel like a dumb ass for taking two days to to my rear brakes, I wanted to be sure I don't take two days for the front.

 

You guys told me the size of the torx head, T-60. Thank you.

You guys told me I need a trunk monkey (breaker bar). Thank you.

What I need to know now (this killed me before) is if I can just use a C-Clamp to push the front piston back in?

 

I hope so.

 

Thanks guys,

Aaron

[White93z34]

yes. use a old brake pad to push it in. you may need to change sides a few times to get both front pistons all the way in.

[tornado_735]

yes. use a old brake pad to push it in. you may need to change sides a few times to get both front pistons all the way in.

 

Thank you very much. I also have to replace two broken wheel studs. Oh joy.

[xtremerevolution]

right on. the fronts are a cakewalk once you get those T60 bolts off. make sure you get a damn good 1/2" bit and breaker bar.

 

have you decided on pads and rotors yet?

[tornado_735]

right on. the fronts are a cakewalk once you get those T60 bolts off. make sure you get a damn good 1/2" bit and breaker bar.

 

have you decided on pads and rotors yet?

 

I already got them. O'Reilly cheapie rotors (the guy I deal with over there is my dude, and said they were ok for stock) and mid level pads. Nothing fancy. I would like to do some light mods one of these days, but I have got to get my Land Rover running because I'm sick of just looking at the damn thing. The PO was a moron, and I have to clean up all the mistakes he made. $1700 for a 2001 LR Discovery though. I couldn't pass it up.

[tornado_735]

right on. the fronts are a cakewalk once you get those T60 bolts off. make sure you get a damn good 1/2" bit and breaker bar.

 

 

Well, I got a Stanley 1/2 inch flex bit and a GM Goodwrench T60 driver. To my surprise, the bolts were not at all hard to get off. Gave them a little muscle, and they came right loose.

 

The rest was, as you said, a cakewalk. Took me about two and a half hours to do it all, including replacing the broken lug bolts on the driver side. I had to go back to O'Reilly and get the shorter lugs because I was not about to pull that hub off. But overall, it was a whole hell of a lot easier than the rears to do. No knuckle busting or pulled muscles to be had. I don't think I even had to cuss at it

[xtremerevolution]

I'm glad it went well for you. My T60's were literally welded on the first time I had to change my rotors. It was pretty ridiculous.

[tornado_735]

I'm glad it went well for you. My T60's were literally welded on the first time I had to change my rotors. It was pretty ridiculous.

 

Good Lord. I remember we had to take my Olds to the shop and they used an impact wrench. Those bastards were stuck.

 

It's a good thing I changed those rotors too; the back sides of them were all kinds of pitted and the inboard pads were starting to disintegrate.

 

Now to tackle this ABS/Brake light...

[xtremerevolution]

I'm glad it went well for you. My T60's were literally welded on the first time I had to change my rotors. It was pretty ridiculous.

 

Good Lord. I remember we had to take my Olds to the shop and they used an impact wrench. Those bastards were stuck.

 

It's a good thing I changed those rotors too; the back sides of them were all kinds of pitted and the inboard pads were starting to disintegrate.

 

Now to tackle this ABS/Brake light...

 

Before you do anything else to diagnose that, remove the abs wheel speed sensors and clean them. They're right behind the wheel hub above the ball joint on the front and can be removed fairly easily. I don't remember where they were on the rear, but cleaning mine on the front fixed the problem.

[tornado_735]

D'oh! I already made a thread about it.