tornado_735 Posted May 15, 2009 Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 I decided to change my brakes today. I got everything, got to taking the rear passenger assembly apart, go to push the caliper back in, and nothing. I figure my c-clamp is too small so I walk back to the parts store, and buy a bigger one. I bent the crap out of the little handle on the c-clamp, and eventually resorting to taking out the bleeder valve and using wrenches to get leverage to push this caliper back in. It didn't budge, not one millimeter. So just to make sure before I go out and plunk down mucho dinero on new calipers, is there anything else I can do to get this caliper to unseize? Thanks, Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted May 15, 2009 Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 Hey bub, you have to rotate them clockwise while pressing them in.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted May 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 Oh, and I forgot to mention that I got a little pissed off, started the car, and jammed on the brakes to see if it would push the caliper out. Nothing. I didn't know you had to turn them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted May 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 Ok, after doing more reaserch, I found that i need a caliper retraction tool. I'm gonna head over to O'Reilly and see if they have one. Thanks 1loudcutty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted May 16, 2009 Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 Ok, after doing more reaserch, I found that i need a caliper retraction tool. I'm gonna head over to O'Reilly and see if they have one. Thanks 1loudcutty. What vehicle? My '92 and '93 Luminas DO NOT NEED a special tool to retract the rear caliper pistons. I DO NOT screw them back into the bore. Pull one nut and one washer on the back of each caliper. REMOVE the park brake lever. Squeeze the pistons straight into the bore, as you do so the "stem" that the park brake lever attaches to will turn. Much easier to have the "stem" turning on a ~3/4" o-ring than to try to turn the piston on a ~2" o-ring. When you've got the piston back in the bore, pop the park brake lever into place, add the nut and washer, tighten to spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted May 16, 2009 Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 i've done my 95 rear brakes 5 or 6 times and i've had to rotate the caliper back in each time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w-bodys_are_the_best Posted May 16, 2009 Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 I've had to rotate them on every W I've worked on also. I have one of those cheap ass blocks that goes on the end of an extension. That works ok, but if you have a local advance, they rent out a better tool for $35 that does both the pushing in and turning, we used it on her 95 thunderbird which also had to be rotated in. You're not going to get it any other way, me and my grandpa spent hours one night trying to get them. We used ever big giant anything he has for his farm equipment and his 300+ lbs as leverage. I'm suprised nothing broke I pulled the caliper planning on buying a new one. They told me at the parts store they have to be turned and pushed at the same time, I felt like an idiot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 it's a '94 GP sedan. Got the tool, got both rears replaced. It stopped raining, so I figured I would do the fronts. No such luck. Old school Torx head bolt. I went over to O'Reilly to get the torx head, and I got the wrong size. I said the hell with it and came in. The fronts aren't bad really, I may just leave them on until they need replaced. Twisted a lug bolt off though, so I need to replace that. Pain in the ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 What vehicle? My '92 and '93 Luminas DO NOT NEED a special tool to retract the rear caliper pistons. I DO NOT screw them back into the bore. Pull one nut and one washer on the back of each caliper. REMOVE the park brake lever. Squeeze the pistons straight into the bore, as you do so the "stem" that the park brake lever attaches to will turn. Much easier to have the "stem" turning on a ~3/4" o-ring than to try to turn the piston on a ~2" o-ring. When you've got the piston back in the bore, pop the park brake lever into place, add the nut and washer, tighten to spec. This is exactly how I retract 88-93 rear caliper pistons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 it's a '94 GP sedan. Got the tool, got both rears replaced. It stopped raining, so I figured I would do the fronts. No such luck. Old school Torx head bolt. I went over to O'Reilly to get the torx head, and I got the wrong size. I said the hell with it and came in. The fronts aren't bad really, I may just leave them on until they need replaced. Twisted a lug bolt off though, so I need to replace that. Pain in the ass. T-60 Torx for the front caliper brackets. For retracting 94+ rear caliper pistons, I use needle nose pliers or needle nose visegrips to rotate the piston. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away. Do you have a breaker bar? You're going to need it. Make sure you get a VERY high quality T-60 torx bit. Those bolts are a total bitch. Make sure to use plenty anti-seize when getting them back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away. Do you have a breaker bar? You're going to need it. Make sure you get a VERY high quality T-60 torx bit. Those bolts are a total bitch. Make sure to use plenty anti-seize when getting them back on. NO!! GM says to use medium strength locktite!!! I will have to look up the torque spec, as far as I remember, its in the 120-130ftlb range with the locktite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w-bodys_are_the_best Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away. Do you have a breaker bar? You're going to need it. Make sure you get a VERY high quality T-60 torx bit. Those bolts are a total bitch. Make sure to use plenty anti-seize when getting them back on. Yes definately, I broke 2 - 3/8 rachets, my uncles 3/8's breaker that was older than me, and a buddy's 1/2 to 3/8 reducer because we had a 3/8 t60. Go to NAPA, get a 1/2 drive T60 and a 1/2 breaker, it was $8 for a NAPA lifetime T60, I've had it for 5 years now and it's doen many W break jobs. The reducer I had to replace (also NAPA) was more expensive than the T60 bit **EDIT** my brother had also let his 94 sedan CS front brakes wear to the vents, the piston had grabbed the vents and ripped itself out of the bore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 I do almost all of my shopping at O'Reilly (considering it's literally within sight distance of my apartment, maybe a 4-5 minute walk depending on how you catch the light. The only Torx heads they sell are GM Performance, or something. I know for a fact it says GM on it. I have a persuader, but it's in the back of my Jeep. The pads up front are about 40% and the rotors aren't warped, so I have plenty of time. No need to run out and do it right away today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 17, 2009 Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away. Do you have a breaker bar? You're going to need it. Make sure you get a VERY high quality T-60 torx bit. Those bolts are a total bitch. Make sure to use plenty anti-seize when getting them back on. NO!! GM says to use medium strength locktite!!! I will have to look up the torque spec, as far as I remember, its in the 120-130ftlb range with the locktite CORRECT. use locktite. it will inhibit rust and come free with a quick attack from a breaker bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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