Just making sure...rear caliper seized tighter than a drum?

[tornado_735]

I decided to change my brakes today. I got everything, got to taking the rear passenger assembly apart, go to push the caliper back in, and nothing. I figure my c-clamp is too small so I walk back to the parts store, and buy a bigger one. I bent the crap out of the little handle on the c-clamp, and eventually resorting to taking out the bleeder valve and using wrenches to get leverage to push this caliper back in. It didn't budge, not one millimeter.

 

So just to make sure before I go out and plunk down mucho dinero on new calipers, is there anything else I can do to get this caliper to unseize?

 

Thanks,

Aaron

[BXX]

Hey bub, you have to rotate them clockwise while pressing them in..

[tornado_735]

Oh, and I forgot to mention that I got a little pissed off, started the car, and jammed on the brakes to see if it would push the caliper out.

 

Nothing.

 

I didn't know you had to turn them.

[tornado_735]

Ok, after doing more reaserch, I found that i need a caliper retraction tool. I'm gonna head over to O'Reilly and see if they have one.

 

Thanks 1loudcutty.

[Schurkey]

Ok, after doing more reaserch, I found that i need a caliper retraction tool. I'm gonna head over to O'Reilly and see if they have one.

 

Thanks 1loudcutty.

What vehicle?

 

My '92 and '93 Luminas DO NOT NEED a special tool to retract the rear caliper pistons. I DO NOT screw them back into the bore.

 

Pull one nut and one washer on the back of each caliper. REMOVE the park brake lever. Squeeze the pistons straight into the bore, as you do so the "stem" that the park brake lever attaches to will turn.

 

Much easier to have the "stem" turning on a ~3/4" o-ring than to try to turn the piston on a ~2" o-ring.

 

When you've got the piston back in the bore, pop the park brake lever into place, add the nut and washer, tighten to spec.

[xtremerevolution]

i've done my 95 rear brakes 5 or 6 times and i've had to rotate the caliper back in each time.

[w-bodys_are_the_best]

I've had to rotate them on every W I've worked on also. I have one of those cheap ass blocks that goes on the end of an extension. That works ok, but if you have a local advance, they rent out a better tool for $35 that does both the pushing in and turning, we used it on her 95 thunderbird which also had to be rotated in.

 

You're not going to get it any other way, me and my grandpa spent hours one night trying to get them. We used ever big giant anything he has for his farm equipment and his 300+ lbs as leverage. I'm suprised nothing broke I pulled the caliper planning on buying a new one. They told me at the parts store they have to be turned and pushed at the same time, I felt like an idiot.

[tornado_735]

it's a '94 GP sedan. Got the tool, got both rears replaced. It stopped raining, so I figured I would do the fronts. No such luck. Old school Torx head bolt. I went over to O'Reilly to get the torx head, and I got the wrong size. I said the hell with it and came in. The fronts aren't bad really, I may just leave them on until they need replaced.

 

Twisted a lug bolt off though, so I need to replace that. Pain in the ass.

[GOT2B GM]

What vehicle?

 

My '92 and '93 Luminas DO NOT NEED a special tool to retract the rear caliper pistons. I DO NOT screw them back into the bore.

 

Pull one nut and one washer on the back of each caliper. REMOVE the park brake lever. Squeeze the pistons straight into the bore, as you do so the "stem" that the park brake lever attaches to will turn.

 

Much easier to have the "stem" turning on a ~3/4" o-ring than to try to turn the piston on a ~2" o-ring.

 

When you've got the piston back in the bore, pop the park brake lever into place, add the nut and washer, tighten to spec.

 

This is exactly how I retract 88-93 rear caliper pistons

[GOT2B GM]

it's a '94 GP sedan. Got the tool, got both rears replaced. It stopped raining, so I figured I would do the fronts. No such luck. Old school Torx head bolt. I went over to O'Reilly to get the torx head, and I got the wrong size. I said the hell with it and came in. The fronts aren't bad really, I may just leave them on until they need replaced.

 

Twisted a lug bolt off though, so I need to replace that. Pain in the ass.

 

T-60 Torx for the front caliper brackets.

 

For retracting 94+ rear caliper pistons, I use needle nose pliers or needle nose visegrips to rotate the piston.

[tornado_735]

Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away.

[xtremerevolution]

Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away.

 

Do you have a breaker bar? You're going to need it. Make sure you get a VERY high quality T-60 torx bit. Those bolts are a total bitch. Make sure to use plenty anti-seize when getting them back on.

[BXX]

Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away.

 

Do you have a breaker bar? You're going to need it. Make sure you get a VERY high quality T-60 torx bit. Those bolts are a total bitch. Make sure to use plenty anti-seize when getting them back on.

 

 

NO!! GM says to use medium strength locktite!!! I will have to look up the torque spec, as far as I remember, its in the 120-130ftlb range with the locktite

[w-bodys_are_the_best]

Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away.

 

Do you have a breaker bar? You're going to need it. Make sure you get a VERY high quality T-60 torx bit. Those bolts are a total bitch. Make sure to use plenty anti-seize when getting them back on.

 

Yes definately, I broke 2 - 3/8 rachets, my uncles 3/8's breaker that was older than me, and a buddy's 1/2 to 3/8 reducer because we had a 3/8 t60. Go to NAPA, get a 1/2 drive T60 and a 1/2 breaker, it was $8 for a NAPA lifetime T60, I've had it for 5 years now and it's doen many W break jobs. The reducer I had to replace (also NAPA) was more expensive than the T60 bit

 

**EDIT** my brother had also let his 94 sedan CS front brakes wear to the vents, the piston had grabbed the vents and ripped itself out of the bore

[tornado_735]

I do almost all of my shopping at O'Reilly (considering it's literally within sight distance of my apartment, maybe a 4-5 minute walk depending on how you catch the light. The only Torx heads they sell are GM Performance, or something. I know for a fact it says GM on it.

 

I have a persuader, but it's in the back of my Jeep. The pads up front are about 40% and the rotors aren't warped, so I have plenty of time. No need to run out and do it right away today.

[Crazy K]

Thanks 2B. I'm tired and sore, and my hands hurt, so I'm going to sit on it for a few days. Since it ain't broke, I ain't gonna fix it right away.

 

Do you have a breaker bar? You're going to need it. Make sure you get a VERY high quality T-60 torx bit. Those bolts are a total bitch. Make sure to use plenty anti-seize when getting them back on.

 

 

NO!! GM says to use medium strength locktite!!! I will have to look up the torque spec, as far as I remember, its in the 120-130ftlb range with the locktite

CORRECT. use locktite. it will inhibit rust and come free with a quick attack from a breaker bar.