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Posted

Ok so this week i found a set of AQ9s from a 1993 Oldsmobile cutlass supreme International.

For those of you who do not know what AQ9's are,

AQ9's are sport bucket seats. They are extremely comfortable and usually come in Leather or cloth (unsure if they had any in vinyl)

The backs are either cloth or plastic and all have storage pockets on the back made of either leather or vinyl.

The driver seat has a 6 way power track setup to move the seat up, down, back and forth.

The passenger seat has a manual track setup with a lever to raise the front of the seat.

The other features of the seats are controlled by a air motor located under the driver seat. There are many adjustments from adjustable cushions, lumbar adjustments, center back adjustments on the center and sides, and a air adjusted headrests.

All air powered features are controlled by a master switch located in the center console right in front of the cupholder and just below the shift bezel. The unit snaps into the original coin storage compartment.

On The GPs the master switch is on the center console lid and controls both seats also (the units are common to failure due to the wiring that travels to the rear of the console)

The power source for the seats comes from the driver seat via the orange/black striped wire coming up from the carpet under the driver seat.

The power wire comes from the passenger front kick panel, runs next to the sill in the factory wire compartment. Then it runs in the channel behind the front seats to the driver side just under the driver seat.

The ground wire runs to the driver side right to the 2 grounding bolts located next to the B pillar between the front and rear door.

The harness for the air features for both seats runs behind the front seats in the factory channel

(WHEN YOU PULL THE SEATS DO NOT CUT THE HARNESS ON EITHER SIDE! THE HARNESS ONLY GOES FROM THE DRIVER SEAT, UNDER THE CARPET TO THE CENTER CONSOLE AND THEN TO THE PASSENGER SIDE)

(ALSO THE AIR LINE FOR THE SEATS RUNS WITH THE SAME HARNESS FROM ONE SEAT TO THE OTHER, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO TO REMOVE THE HARNESS AND AIR LINE IS TO EITHER CUT THE CARPET AND REMOVE THE HARNESS, OR PULL THE CARPET AND REMOVE THE HARNESS)

Now I am going to be converting my 94 Oldsmobile cutlass supreme column shift with the 60/40 bench setup to a column shift with buckets(which means no center seat and no storage compartment with cupholder) I am going to run mine for awhile without a console to see how i like the results.

If you have the console shift your job will be much easier because there will already be a spot for the AQ9 controls in the console. I have not yet figured out what i am going to do with mine.

For the console shift cars the power supply for the master switch is in the plug that goes inline from the harness in the center console. All you have to do is unplug the grey female plug that consists of the console rear domelight, ashtray and shift indicator light, etc... plug one side of the grey connector into the factory grey plug and then just plug the lights harness into the other end. (basically there is 2 plugs on the AQ9 harness one plugs into the factory harness and the plug that you disconnected goes into the other end)

Now here is the problem, cars with the column shift do not have the grey plug because there is no center console so you will have to run 4 wires from under the dash, under the carpet to the center hole.

here are the 4 wires

ORANGE (constant)Goes to the wire for the cigarette lighter

WHITE (Domelamp wire) optional if you want to run a rear domelamp. wire comes from domelamp near kickwell

BLACK (ground) Optional, only needed if you want the switches to light up and a domelamp. Wire goes to cigarette lighter black

GREY (Illumination) optional, used if you want the switches to light up, Taps into grey illumination wire for ashtray light.

For mine i just have the orange wire hooked up to constant so i can use the features.

To install the harness for the AQ9s i pulled the sill trim pieces on both sides from the front to the rear, The back seat bottom, both front seats.

I then folded the rear of the carpet forward enough to access the black channel that runs behind the front seats.

(THE CARPET ALREADY HAS THE SLITS UNDER EACH SEAT AND IN THE CENTER FOR THE WIRES TO GO THROUGH SO DO NOT CUT THE CARPET)

I started at the center with the 4 plugs, Fished them through the center hole in the carpet then i ran the harness to the driver side and fished the 2 plugs and air line through the carpet hole (REMEMBER WHEN RUNNING THE HARNESS THERE IS 2 PLUGS AND A AIR LINE FOR THE DRIVER SIDE (1 BLUE PLUG AND ONE BLACK PLUG) AND ON THE PASSENGER SIDE THERE IS ONE WHITE PLUG AND ONE AIR LINE .)

I then ran the other side of the wire through the passenger side carpet hole.

I recommend checking the air line for kinks before replacing the carpet and going any farther. (I sucked into one side and plugged the hole on the other side to confirm no holes or kinks)

Once the harness is run you are ready to start installing the seats.

I recommend installing the passenger side first.

Set the seat in and there will be 2 set tabs to align the seat tracks (one at the left rear and one at the right front)

put the rear bolts in hand tight but do not tighten.

Slide the seat all the way back and align the front holes by pulling up on the lever slightly until you can align the track whether it is off to the right or left. (usually it will be off by one tooth on either side)

Tighten the front bolts and then slide the seat forward and tighten the rear bolts.

Now comes the driver side which should be easier because the power track will not move without power, (therefore it will not lose alignment.)

For the driver seat is the same as the passenger seat but you will have to set the seat in and set the tracks in the alignment pins and plug in the orange/black-black wire to move the seat back and forth.

Move the seat all the way forward and hand tighten the rear bolts, then move the seat all the way back and tighten the front bolts, and finally tighten the rears.

Next go under the driver seat and plug in the 3 plugs (one black 2 pin, one black 3 pin, and one blue pin), then plug in the air line,(it just snaps together). (BE SURE TO CHECK THAT NO WIRES OR LINES WILL GET IN THE WAY OF THE SEAT TRACKS OF GET PULLED)

Do the same on the passenger side except there is only one white plug and a air line.

(The lines are preformed so once they are layed properly they shouldnt have any clearance issues)

Connect the blue and white connector at the center to the master controls, and the grey to the factory harness and you may now check the operation of both seats.

Once it is confirmed that everything works properly there is 2 rear track trim pieces to be installed and 2 front track trim pieces. All are held in place by 1 philips screw. there is also a trim that goes just under the driver side switches that covers up the track and motors. That has 2 screws in the front and 2 in the rear.

And last but not least ENJOY :mrgreen:

 

first picture is master switch assembly

3 other pics of passenger AQ9 seat. Mint condition. charcoal grey cloth with rear vinyl pocket and plastic rear

Posted

All these junked 1993 CS Internationals popping up makes me sad.

Posted

Here are some more pics. Pics of carpet pulled back and center area where the black channel is located and you can also see the ground bolt at the left

 

All these junked 1993 CS Internationals popping up makes me sad.

me too. Usually i see but 1 a year

dare I suggest talking on the phone? :willynilly:

lol having the same idea as i am?/
Posted

More pics. Getting closer

First pic is driver side where harness comes through carpet.

second pic is the harness coming out of the center hole.

third pic is passenger side where harness comes through the carpet.

fourth pic of my big mess. Long story lol.

I thought it would be a good idea to do a dash swap, rewire the hud, DIS, and stereo. :willynilly:

seriously 11.5 hours and i am not done yet

Posted

Been there and done that. It was so worth it! Rigging up a DIC was a pit more of pita. But looks good!

Posted

Been there and done that. It was so worth it! Rigging up a DIC was a pit more of pita. But looks good!

Ok so today was the first day driving with the AQ9s and I absolutely love them. They are 100% more comfortble than the 60/40 bench. it is like riding on air :mrgreen:

Posted

Been there and done that. It was so worth it! Rigging up a DIC was a pit more of pita. But looks good!

Ok so today was the first day driving with the AQ9s and I absolutely love them. They are 100% more comfortble than the 60/40 bench. it is like riding on air :mrgreen:

your preaching to the choir hear! :mrgreen:

Posted

nice... i wanted to post here so i can keep track of this.

I am getting all 4 leather seats from Stevo out of his 93 international as well and this thread will help me get them hooked up in my Z34 hopefully. Thanks.

Posted

good. I tried to supply as much info asi possibly could. If i could find some free time i culd post the finished pics. :mrgreen:

Posted

Thank you they are nearly mint other than the fact that they were extremely dusty

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Is it just me or does the GP AQ9 keypad have more controls than the CS one? I always thought they were the same...

Posted

I think the Gp setup looks more ergonomic but i believe they are both the same otherwise. Maybe someone can post a pic of a GP unit. Also i am wondering if any regals had the AQ9s

Posted

Is it just me or does the GP AQ9 keypad have more controls than the CS one? I always thought they were the same...

it does have more controls than the CS. DAMN YOU OLDSMOBILE!!!! DAMN YOU....

Posted

I think thats the first thing that hit be about the interior of the gp when I got it ,how insanely adjustable the drivers seat is. Took me like 15 minutes of playing with the switches to get it exactly how I want it..and I think its funny how it still has the manual reclining lever. :smile: Plus the seats are pretty much perfect..not a tear or stain on them.

Posted

Is it just me or does the GP AQ9 keypad have more controls than the CS one? I always thought they were the same...

it does have more controls than the CS. DAMN YOU OLDSMOBILE!!!! DAMN YOU....

 

I just got mine working again from the parts, Ken!

Posted

Is it just me or does the GP AQ9 keypad have more controls than the CS one? I always thought they were the same...

it does have more controls than the CS. DAMN YOU OLDSMOBILE!!!! DAMN YOU....

 

I just got mine working again from the parts, Ken!

 

:thumb:

Posted

I think thats the first thing that hit be about the interior of the gp when I got it ,how insanely adjustable the drivers seat is. Took me like 15 minutes of playing with the switches to get it exactly how I want it..and I think its funny how it still has the manual reclining lever. :smile: Plus the seats are pretty much perfect..not a tear or stain on them.

I think it is very dumb that the only cars other than the very high end GMs were the buick century got the power recline feature. Why i guess i will never know.

I am going to try like hell to post finish pics this week but my schedule tends to be insane.

Once i got used to the bucket seats i could never go back to a 60/40 setup

Posted

I think the Gp setup looks more ergonomic but i believe they are both the same otherwise. Maybe someone can post a pic of a GP unit. Also i am wondering if any regals had the AQ9s

Regals never had them. The four seater regals just came with standard 6 way power seats.

 

Also, IIRC, the Grand prixs either had individually adjustable leg bolsters, or it had an extra lumbar adjustment. I can't remember which.

Posted

Both the right and left leg bolster have a separate switch, and there are 3 different adjustments for the back...

Posted

yeah what he said ^ each leg bolster adjust separately, which is about as useless as the "performance sound" switch :lol:

 

"Oh honey, turn off the door speakers! There is WAY TOO MUCH PERFORMANCE coming out of this stereo that I can handle!"

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