94GPGTP Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Well i am working the bugs out of the car now and running across a few things.. You know when you turn on the ingition and it goes through a system check and all guages move and all lights come on and the HUD lights up with all the things it shows.. well the HUD shows all the things light up like a system check.. i will get a pic today.. IDK if the HUD is bad or it relates to the next problem.. My gauges are inaccurate just like all the others.. i have no temp gauge and the 1 wire sensor is new the fuel gauge shows 1/4 when its bone dry b/c i ran out of gas, but the turbo gauges works properly and so does the oil press.. the tach works but is probably inaccurate and i know the speedo is off but it works.. my check gauges light comes on and then slowly fades away about every 2 times i drive it.. also the gas gauge is showing 3/4 tank and the fuel light comes on.. Now hopefully this made sense... lol.. When i had the dash out i did do the soldering to the back of the cluster... show i redo it again? or do i need another one since i have other issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Take the wire for the temperature sensor for the gauge (the sensor with one green wire located on the driver's side of the rear head) and ground it. does your gauge peg out "hot"? if yes: you may have a sensor for a car with a idiot light. get the proper one. if no: you have a cluster issue. try soldering it again. The fuel gauge more likely than not reflects a dirty sender in the tank. How long has the car sat before this happened? sometimes it clears up and returns to range after 4 or 5 tanks of gs have run through the tank... a lot of what you have said is normal functioning.... for a TGP cluster... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 I will try the ground thing on the temp sensor. The fuel part the tank and sending unit is out of my 89 parts car and It didn't sit long I had it out when I put the walbro in.. Hopefully it's not the cluster that's bad but who knows. Do you happen to know anything about my HUD issue with all the icons lite up? I would think the HUD is tied in to the cluster. That what I would think but it could be different. Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Do you happen to know anything about my HUD issue with all the icons lite up? I would think the HUD is tied in to the cluster. That what I would think but it could be different. uh, they stay on all the time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 heres a pic of whats goin on with the HUD.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 i also tried grounding the temp sensor wire and the gauge did not move.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 http://www.w-body.com/service/checkgauges.html have you read/done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Yes I have already did that. Should I redo it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Yes I have already did that. Should I redo it? can't hurt? try it. do you have a multimeter? you should probably check all the circuits for continuity before and after you solder. p.s. when you grounded the temp gauge wire, you did have the key in the run position, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 could you tell me where to test with the multimeter. Which pins to test. LOL yes I had the key on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 could you tell me where to test with the multimeter. Which pins to test. LOL yes I had the key on... anything you think is bad. I would do a continuity check of: temp sensor wire at sensor to ground temp sensor wire in engine harness to the temp sensor wire pin at the cluster (to be sure it is good) across any solder joints you have to re-work.... had to ask... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted May 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 ok so heres what i did.. I unplugged the temp sensor and grounded it and the gauge did not peg out.. So today like an hour ago i removed the gauges and resoldered it. put back in and tried it.. the gauge pegged out and i tried unplugging the sensor to see if it would bring it down and it didnt.. so i remove it again and resoldered it again.. but before i put it in i tried the HUD without the gauges in and it turned on and still showed all icons light up.. so that there tells me the HUD is no good.. I put the gauges back in and tried it and the thermostat opened and still no gauge.. it is all the way cold and does not move.. im thinking that the cluster has to be replaced... unplugging the sensor wire does not change anything when plugged in or is unplugged.. so where am i and what do i do?? just get a different HUD and Cluster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 16, 2009 Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 hmmmm... unplug the HUD and try the cluster by it self. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted May 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 I Did do that and nothing happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted May 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 been troubleshooting this thing for a few days.. This Coolant Temp Gauge issue is really getting to me .. I got a replacement Cluster thinking it could be inside the cluster causing things to not work.. NOPE that didnt solve any problems.. Now bare with me here i might get off track or not make sense but ill try my best to get it through typing it out.. In order to check for a bad coolant temp sensor you ground out the green wire thats for the coolant sensor in the engine compartment for the gauge to peg into 260 to know that your cluster is working.. well when i do that i put a ground on the green wire my jumper wire gets hot and the gauge does not move.. Now why would the wire be getting hot when grounded out? the green wire runs off of OHMS.. Well i unplugged the cluster and tested it again and the jumper got hot even with the cluster unplugged.. so i decided to test to see if im getting power through the green wire and i am when the key is on the wire has 12 volts and with the key off theres no power.. I also OHMED the green wire and it OHMED good.. The only thing i can think of is that the green wire goes to the computer and from the computer to the cluster.. and the computer is whats giving it the 12 volts when the key is on.. Am i missing a step for troubleshooting this out?? so the cluster tests out good and the sensor i have should be good.. I just dont know why i have 12 volts in this wire when the key is turned on.. Also In the Neutral safety switch plug i cant figure out the reverse lights.. With the key off i have one hot wire and with the key on there is 2 which one is the thick purple one and the other which stays hot with the key off.. So i dont know why theres a hot wire with the key off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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