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Rear Suspension Issue - Camber


Leadfoot

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Ok, this is my first post. I have been lurking here reading for a while. I have a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme SL 2 door with the B4U package. It has 195k miles. I have noticed over the last year or so that the rear tires camber is off and the inside of the tires is worn. I tried loosening the bolts to adjust it and there is no adjustment. It could be because I have replaced the rear struts with Monroe's. I am more concerned with this being a function of worn out bushings or something else that needs to be fixed. Has anyone had to replace the bushings in the rear suspension and had this help with Camber issues?

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Nope, no alignment. My buddy does them, but I wanted to make sure the camber can be adjusted before taking it up there. He already saw it and told me to just buy the camber adjustment kit.

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Ok, that is what I was worried about. It's def sagging. Had a system in the trunk since 60k. I kinda like it because it sits pretty level with the system. It's strange that only the last year or so I have seen the strange tire wear.

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Probably since you changed your rear struts?? When I did my Lumina ones I used Monroe struts too and they had elongated holes at the bottom of the strut to allow for some movement.

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I replaced those at 100k or so. It has been about 8 years and this has been out of camber only recently. My Monroe's don't have the elongated hole for adjustment so I am going to have to do that part myself. I was hoping the were elongated for me, but no such luck.

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have you checked the monoleaf pads yet? when those wear badly, they will drop the car a good half inch. it might not be the only source of your problem, but it probably doesn't help either.

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I actually replaced those with the Moog plastic parts about 6 months ago hoping that would help and it didn't do too much.

 

Then as previously mentioned, your rear leaf is most likely sagging.

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Regardless of the cause, it's easy to get your camber adjustment back by simply doing what was somewhat mentioned. You have to rip the knuckle off the strut and take an arbor bit or drill or equivalent and elongate both the strut holes. Pretty easy, IMO

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Regardless of the cause, it's easy to get your camber adjustment back by simply doing what was somewhat mentioned. You have to rip the knuckle off the strut and take an arbor bit or drill or equivalent and elongate both the strut holes. Pretty easy, IMO

 

That too. Conveniently, the KYB GR2's come with the holes already elongated.

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Regardless of the cause, it's easy to get your camber adjustment back by simply doing what was somewhat mentioned. You have to rip the knuckle off the strut and take an arbor bit or drill or equivalent and elongate both the strut holes. Pretty easy, IMO

 

That too. Conveniently, the KYB GR2's come with the holes already elongated.

 

You can also elongate the holes in the lower strut mount "plates" per the FSM to allow for camber adjustment.

 

Isn't the rear suspension designed to keep the wheel perpendicular to the road regardless of suspension travel? This would eliminate a sagging spring as a cause of excessive negative camber. My '92 is sagging on the driver's side and has been for the last 10 years with no odd tire wear (car has 152k miles).

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Actually, I found an easier solution for about $30. SPC performance makes a bolt with an offset for the top hole. It slid right on. You turn it until the knuckle angle is where you want. I did both sides in about an hour and it looks nearly perfect. I am taking it to my buddies shop next week and putting it on a rack to get it aligned.

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