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Monoleaf Removal - Whats the right / safe way?


webxfx

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i removed the trailing arm, then i removed the top mount for the struts keeping a jack under the knuckle and lowered the whole assembly down ( which was the scariest part for me ) then removed the spring clamper dealies around the monoleaf and found that the monoleaf still didnt come out of the knuckles. i moved the knuckle around till it came out of that side. once its off one side, the other side should be no problem. I was able to pull it through the jacking pad part after i rotated it.

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tools:

two jackstands

a floorjack

10mm, 13mm, 15mm socket and ratchet (and/or breaker bar)

pb blaster

24mm or 22mm? breaker bar and wrench.

Safety goggles!

 

removal

-break loose tire lugs

-raise the vehicle and support the body on jackstands

-remove tires

-PB blast the strut mounts bolts on the inside of the trunk, the 4 10mm bolts holding the spring rubber isolators to the rear sub-frame(inside the sub-frame), the 3 bolts holding the jack pad, the trailing arm to knuckle nuts and bolts... be liberal and even do this a few days ahead of doing the job to allow soak in time

-lower the exhaust if it is in the way

-break loose all hardware in the way first, but don't remove.

TIP: turn these bolts in and out by fractions of a turn while removing to help reduce the chances of them breaking (keep PB blasting as needed)

-remove the bolts from the jack pad and the metal brackets holding the spring isolators

-select which side strut you will be lowering (whichever came free easiest?)

-remove the nut and bolt holding one trailing arms to the knuckle (only the trailing arm, not lateral links)

-relieve downward pressure on struts by raising knuckles just slightly with floorjacks

-remove the struts mount to body bolts, and lower the jack while guiding the strut down to clear the body.

SPRING SHOULD BE FREE WITH NO TENSION NOW. pull it out!

 

reinstall.

-add isolation Pucks and get rid of the rubber garbage on the end of the spring

-stick spring back in, with both end in the knuckles

(GREASE/Antisieze all hardware as you install!)

-loosely install the metal bracket that holds the spring isolator on the side of the car that you did not lower the strut on (enough to hold the isolator clamped)

-raise the strut you lowered with a floorjack, guiding it in to position.

IS THE SPRING SEATED PROPERLY? lower and raise the jack as needed to adjust.

IF GOOD... install the bolts.

-loosely install the other metal bracket that holds the spring isolator.

everything good and straight?

-tighten all bolts.

 

 

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kind of on the same lines, if I removed just the shocks - do I have to worry about the spring coming out... I want to guess no cause I won't touch any other bolts

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kind of on the same lines, if I removed just the shocks - do I have to worry about the spring coming out... I want to guess no cause I won't touch any other bolts

no, as long as the isolator bracket/tabs are present(i've seen them disapear from rust...)

 

-break lugs loose

-raise vehicle, place on jackstands

-remove tires

-PB blast all nuts and bolts, get those pesky ones you have to lub from inside the trunk (do it for a few days before doing the job as well)

-support the knuckle with a floor jack(raise it maybe 1/2 inch)

-break top 15mm bolts loose (take it easy and move them back and forth to prevent breaking them...)

-remove nuts from strut to knuckle bolts

-hammer out the strut to knuckle bolts

-lower the floor jack; the knuckle should separate and once the spring reaches it's rest position, it will release and the the floor jack will come free

-remove top two bolts

 

(I can't believe I pulled two in 5 minutes last week!)

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I used an electric impact and undid the spring body mounts after I removed one knuckle, keeping all my vital parts out of the way when the spring popped out :lol:

 

Effective: yes

 

Safe: no

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