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ABS Delete?


98montels

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Was wondering how I would go about deleting my abs on a 95 Monte.

 

Found this one on rockauto http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=964641&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/RB/UM390176.jpg

 

It runs about 120 bucks.

 

Can I just buy a non abs master cylinder and bolt it up on there? Whats involved with getting that off? Looks like to bolts hold it on but is there anything bolted to it behind there?

 

Also is there a way I can use my current master cylinder and just take the ABS unit off and maker some new lines to connect where it was?

 

thanks

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So how do I know that master cylinder will work? They say different bores and what not. So there are a couple to choose from I wonder if it matters?

 

Some of them say w/rear drum......I'm not real sure on this one. I have rear drum now but before the car is on the road it will have disc, wonder if it really play's a roll in which cylinder I buy.

 

Also It's a cadillac pcm and Ill prolly just pull the bulb out of the dash and forget about it.

 

Reason for wanting to delete it is because when I WOT the throttle body hit the abs unit, plus it isn't wired up correctly or it just doesn't work. So if I just unplug it and get rid of the wires the computer wont know the difference.

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I have done complete hardline swaps with other cars. went to a j/y and found a suitable donor and removed all the lines from that car, along with that car's mastercylinder (and in my case, the booster and firewall plate, because I was deleting a DOA PMIII) the lines are different on a ABS and non-ABS car (as well as a PMIII car) If you want to do this swap, you should find a friendly yard and locate a complete donor, with the right mastercylinder and all.

 

 

known interchange:

 

ABS IV(vacuum ABS) is GEN 1 92-97 all, from the abs unit to both front wheels and to the joint located beneath the car near the C pillar.

 

non ABS is GEN 1 88-97 all, from the master cylinder to both front wheels and to the joint located near beneath the car near the C pillar.

 

ABS POWERMASTER III is GEN 1 88(or is that 89?)-91 all, from the PMIII to both front wheels, with a single line to a rear proportioning block located near beneath the car near the C pillar.

 

 

rear lines from the C pillar link and back are:

Gen 1 88 only

Gen 1 89-93 only

Gen 1 94-97 only.

 

 

I suggest you find a later model GEN 1 car with no ABS (I've seen 96 GPs without ABS) and get all the hardlines and the master cylinder from the donor.

keep in mind to do this you must lower the frame, remove the exhaust and the converter heatshield.

 

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So is that my only option?

 

Or can I use that master cylinder from rockauto and just plum it up to the correct lines.

 

The N* will be out of the car and ill have all the room in the world to work on stuff.

 

 

 

That looks like a PITA. Im thinking non abs cylinder and fabbed sections of line plus new proportioning valve?

 

Junkyard deal seems a bit extreme.

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I have done complete hardline swaps with other cars. went to a j/y and found a suitable donor and removed all the lines from that car, along with that car's mastercylinder (and in my case, the booster and firewall plate, because I was deleting a DOA PMIII) the lines are different on a ABS and non-ABS car

 

I know they wont line up in the correct place, they are too far away without the abs module there.

 

Is this what you mean? If so then will my idea work?

 

By adding straight pieces accordingly to the lines and connect them to the new non abs master cylinder.

 

I was hoping someone had used that part I posted a picture of.

 

 

 

Thanks

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I'm confused....... you are asking about a new part... which is just a factory mastercylinder from a non-abs car????? or what is it? your link gives us the picture but no part number...

 

 

You are dealing with a 95 monte?

 

the non-abs mastercylinder will bolt to the vacuum booster just the same as ABS mastercylinder.

 

it is my understanding the the ABS mastercylinder is not threaded for the lines to attach to it, so it cannot be used and must be replaced.

 

the issue is the plumbing of the lines.

 

THERE IS NO EXTERNAL PROPORTIONING VALVE. the proportioning valve on our cars (excluding PMIII equipped vehicles) is built into the mastercylinder itself.

 

 

p.s. DO YOU HAVE REAR DISK OR DRUM BRAKES?

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Correct on the new part, I want just swap out the master cylinder for a non abs unit.

 

My question is will the ones they list for my car that say non-abs fit to my brake booster?

 

I look up a 95 monte and it shows abs and non abs cylinder's. There are a few different ones they list for my car but I'm not sure which one will bolt right up.

 

The lines I'm not worried about. They are at the right angle Ill just get the fittings and fab them up with my brake line making tools. If there are a couple of fitting right there it won't be any different than fitting under the car where the sections and braided lines tiy in the main lines.

 

Ill post up the page tomorrow of the different master cylinders I have to choose from on my year monte.

 

 

 

Edit: sorry I re-read your post and seen that you said I can bolt the non-abs master cylinder to my current brake booster, and all I had to worry about was the lines reaching.

 

Ok got it, if that is what you mean than Ill have to post up the page when I find it so you can make sure I get the right one.

 

Also it has drum but I have all the stuff for disc ready to put on it before it hit's the road again. So when I get rid of the abs it will be joined with disc brakes in the rear. Good old 95 Z's and there drum's. :biggrin:

 

Thanks alot

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update?

 

yes, I think you have the idea.

 

I would do the brake upgrade to the rear, and then get the proper MC for your situation,

 

BUT.... I think $120 is too much for a MC, you can check your local auto stores for the proper MC and get a remaned unit for much less.

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They dont allow any movement really they just absorb vibrations. Theyll fix your problem without sacrificing brake performance.

 

and without trying to figure out the whole what should i buy and try to get it to work thing.

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They dont allow any movement really they just absorb vibrations. Theyll fix your problem without sacrificing brake performance.

 

and without trying to figure out the whole what should i buy and try to get it to work thing.

 

Some of us arent afraid of hard work if its for a good cause.. but in this case its really pointless.

 

I got mine done by d.o.h.c. I just sent him my factory torque struts and he send them back modified and loaded with polyurethane bushings. Now my motor doesnt move :eek:

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Well It will clean the engine bay up alot and and it doesn't work nor do I need ABS for a track/cruising car.

 

I do want to get the poly for the torque struts. For some reason when you put torque struts nothing came to mind. lol

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