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ITS ALIVE!! Who's idea was the VATS system? were they fired? I hope so...


CSI_MuNkY

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So as some of you know I had to swap my column out because of a short in it somewhere. Because the exact location of the short is not known, I didn't want to take any parts off the old column to go on to the new column.

 

I have the new column in and ready to go, all I have to do is train the car to read the key that is in the new column.

 

I have been attempting the relearn based on the set up a friend of mine used. The VATS key is permanently in a barrel under the dash and the key in the column no longer needs the chip. Doing it this way the Security light came on solid for about 5 minutes then shut off (just like the instructions said it would) However after I'm done, it doesn't run and I have to let the car sit for another hour.

 

Now I have it rigged up so that it is trying to read the key that is in the column and the secondary barrel is tossed. I started the procedure again, this time the Security light flashed, but it never stopped flashing at the end of the first 11 minute period.

 

Anyone have any other ideas?

 

FWIW, here is the process I was told to do

1. First, insert the ignition key and turn the ignition switch to the “On†position (Do not start the engine). Leave the switch on for 11 minutes. The security light may flash or be on steady during this 11 minute period. Make sure the light is no longer on or flashing before proceeding to #2 .

2. Turn the ignition switch off for 30 seconds.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the “On†position (as in step #1) for 11 minutes again.

4. Turn the ignition switch off for another 30 seconds.

5. Turn the ignition switch to the “On†position for 11 minutes a third time.

6. Turn the ignition switch off for 30 seconds one final time.

7. Turn the ignition switch to the “On†position one final time and wait 30 seconds.

8. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine starts and runs normally, the relearn is complete. If the engine does not start, check for trouble codes and address them before attempting the relearn procedure again.

 

The car is again sitting with the battery disconnected...

 

I'm hoping that maybe if I try again I can get lucky.

Another idea I had, can a stealership cut me a new key to the new keys profile with the old resistor in it based off my VIN number? If so, at what cost?

 

Thanks

 

Jamie

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the VATS key that i bought, i cut it myself... dremel plus masking tape plus fine tip marker = free key cutting...

 

dealership will definitley know what resistor it used... do you have the original?

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Why should they get fired? They should get a promotion based on the fact that they made difficult for you to get around it :lol:.

 

Why can't you just hardwire in the correct resistor and bypass the key?

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Why should they get fired? They should get a promotion based on the fact that they made difficult for you to get around it :lol:.

 

Why can't you just hardwire in the correct resistor and bypass the key?

 

something tells me thats not the only issue...

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the vats module is matched to the resistance of the chip in the key. it is not capable of learning a new resistance. you must use a key with the right chip or at least the right chip.

 

 

Why can't you just hardwire in the correct resistor and bypass the key?

this is a good idea if you want to bypass the key, there was a recent post about this already. we described in full detail how to do this.WARNING: by doing this you undermine the vats ability to disable the car due to ignition switch tampering! but other than that it's cool :lol:

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jtwmechanic, I think your wrong... because I have a friend that did reprogram his 96 GP SE to a different key using the process listed on this website under Passkey & Passkey 2.

http://www.quicksilvertrucks.com/forum/showthread.php?t=896

 

I do not have the original key anymore, its in the old column to move the car that my current one came out of.

That's why I was asking if they can give me the correct key from my VIN number, obviously I can't take them the car, and I doubt they do house calls, lol.

 

Why should they get fired? They should get a promotion based on the fact that they made difficult for you to get around it :lol:.

 

Because I'm in a bad mood :lol:

 

Why can't you just hardwire in the correct resistor and bypass the key?

 

Because I couldn't solder if my life depended on it :lol:

 

Jamie

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the vats module is matched to the resistance of the chip in the key. it is not capable of learning a new resistance. you must use a key with the right chip or at least the right chip.

 

That's not true , it can be re-learned to any barrel you put in it.

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the vats module is matched to the resistance of the chip in the key. it is not capable of learning a new resistance. you must use a key with the right chip or at least the right chip.

 

That's not true , it can be re-learned to any barrel you put in it.

 

it is resistance matched. a new module can learn any key. once learned it cannot re-learn.

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the vats module is matched to the resistance of the chip in the key. it is not capable of learning a new resistance. you must use a key with the right chip or at least the right chip.

 

That's not true , it can be re-learned to any barrel you put in it.

 

it is resistance matched. a new module can learn any key. once learned it cannot re-learn.

 

Not sure we are on the same page. But I have used 2 different barrels in my old GP , one from a 94 and the other from a later model monte carlo/lumina. Both would not work when plugged in. But both worked after the re-learn procedure was done. I was also able to relearn the first one I put it with no problems.

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part of the vats design is to not be able to relearn. like Crazy K said once learned that is it. the key chip must be matched to the original vats module or you must replace the whole vats

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part of the vats design is to not be able to relearn. like Crazy K said once learned that is it. the key chip must be matched to the original vats module or you must replace the whole vats

 

Stop spreading false information. The VATS system ( PASSKEY II in this case) CAN BE RE-LEARNED. Even when I went to the yard the guy told me the procedure after I had bought the barrels. I was also stuck out in the middle of nowhere and did this at the side of the road. I have no reason to come here and tell people it wont work when it will. Besides if your bogus theory is true why are re-learn procedures all over the net?

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Well, its alive!

 

I made a phone call and got the old column back.

I pulled the key barrel out of that column, plugged it into the vats wire and it fired right up.

 

jtwmechanic, I'm telling you man, your wrong... My friend has a 96 GP SE, his barrel in the column took a shit and stopped reading the key, he got one from the wreckers and did the relearn procedure on it and got it work, it didn't work prior to the relearn

It didn't work prior to the relearn so that means that the key was a different resistance. Once he did the relearn that key worked fine.

My explanation for that is 1996 was OBD 2, reprogrammable, unlike OBD1.5... That's the only explanation I can come up with for the relearn working on his car and not mine.

 

Not to mention, it worked for Mr. Diggler

 

 

An interesting little test I did... the car now fires up with no VATS key in it at all... once it has fired up with the VATS key in there once, it will run without it. If you disconnect the battery, then you have to replug in the VATS barrel.

 

I took the car for a quick test drive, did a couple left hand turns, no dieing. But I don't have a valid sticker or insurance on the car so I only took it a couple blocks before parking it again. I will get the new sticker and the insurance dealt with Monday morning.

 

Jamie

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Not to mention: from SMP tech tips.

 

"VATS– Starter disable. Injector pulse disable

during crank. Module programmed to ignition

key pellet at factory. No relearn.

Pass Key I & II– Same as VATS except

module can "learn" key pellet on first power

up after installation. PassKey II disables

injector pulse after startup"

 

Small description even more proof.

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part of the vats design is to not be able to relearn. like Crazy K said once learned that is it. the key chip must be matched to the original vats module or you must replace the whole vats

 

Stop spreading false information. The VATS system ( PASSKEY II in this case) CAN BE RE-LEARNED. Even when I went to the yard the guy told me the procedure after I had bought the barrels. I was also stuck out in the middle of nowhere and did this at the side of the road. I have no reason to come here and tell people it wont work when it will. Besides if your bogus theory is true why are re-learn procedures all over the net?

 

pwned by a mark whalberg wannabe motherfucker, this is the ultimate insult!

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Pride of his trailer park...

 

Coming from the guy who loves the can-am the ultimate trailer park car. Most likely used by you as the patrol car as you are head of the (modular home community) aka trash bag trailer park. Like I said before go attempt to satisfy your wife for once in your marriage or should I come show you again how its done? Rather then following my posts on this forum and making useless replies to try and justify your failure of trying becoming a man in life.

warnwarn.gifFlaming will NOT be tolerated.

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The old key/key barrel. I got my hands on the old column (my friend still had it cause he hasn't had time to take the car to the wreckers)

So I sat the old column on the floor, plugged in the VATS wire and only the VATS wire, put the key in the ignition and turned it to the ON position. Then I was able to start the car with the new key in the ignition.

 

Interesting enough once its started you can unplug the VATS wire and it keeps running, will even shut off and start back up again no problem... until you disconnect the battery, then you have to plug in the original VATS barrel again.

 

So really now my car needs 2 keys to run! The one in the dash I can get cut to a key without the VATS chip. I will probably keep the other one under the dash for now.

 

Jamie

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so technicly you still do have a theft deterent... just remove both sets of keys. any would be theif would probably be pretty confused looking under the dash...

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so technicly you still do have a theft deterent... just remove both sets of keys. any would be theif would probably be pretty confused looking under the dash...

 

LoL no shit eh?

 

My brother suggested I put a "START" button in place of the key on the column... doubt I will though... 2 keys and if I take it anywhere sketchy I can take both keys out. And with my battery relocation to the trunk I will have to have a shut off on the back of the car, so I can disconnect the battery and reconnect it in a second so that to restart the car you NEED both keys. The way it is set up right now even if I take both out you still only need the non vats key.

 

Jamie

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