CSI_MuNkY Posted April 15, 2009 Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 ... Upgrade that is For those of you that have done the big 3 upgrade, how much wire did it take? I am going to be buying #2/0 wire to move the battery to the trunk so I figured I might as well get enough to do the battery relocation and a big 3 upgrade. (no sense in bigger + wire if the grounds are tiny) Secondly, I searched and couldn't find a walk through/FAQ about it, can anyone point me to a walk through of what wires get swapped in the job? FWIW, engine is an LQ1, I know that probably makes a difference in the amount of wire coming off the Alt. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venom Posted April 15, 2009 Report Share Posted April 15, 2009 Are you talking about your battery cables and alternator cables? I know Bob (1LoudCutty) did the relocation, but not sure about the alt wire. Ill ask him as he doesnt come here much anymore................................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I'd just buy about 30 ft. Should be enough to get it to the trunk, and have plenty to spare. Battery to block. Battery to chassis. Block to chassis. However, for the positive, since you will have it in the trunk Battery to Auxilary Post Alternator to Auxilary Post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted April 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 Well the power cable I pulled out for the subs today was 16 feet, went from the aux post, in teh fire wall along the door sill, through the back wall, along the back wall to the passenger side, and there was enough slack that I could pull the box out to disconnect the wire. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 why would you want to charge the trunk battery from the aux post? run it from the alt, the alt is what puts out the charge. you would use a lot more wire that way too. you got to consider that across the engine bay is another 5 feet or so before you go back. so you are looking at 20+ft that way. If you run it off the alt and down under to the trunk its a 13 ft long wire. 2/0 is too big to go through the firewall right? or do you mean 2 gauge? you could just use 0 to the trunk from the alt and 2 gauge over to the aux post from the alt and that would be plenty thick. unless you mean welding wire, that stuff is not measured the same as car audio cable. 2/0 is thinner than 0 gauge CA wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 I'll be doin this on the GP on the honda, I did pos. Alt to batt, neg. batt to block and batt to chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted April 16, 2009 Report Share Posted April 16, 2009 why would you want to charge the trunk battery from the aux post? run it from the alt, the alt is what puts out the charge. you would use a lot more wire that way too. you got to consider that across the engine bay is another 5 feet or so before you go back. so you are looking at 20+ft that way. If you run it off the alt and down under to the trunk its a 13 ft long wire. 2/0 is too big to go through the firewall right? or do you mean 2 gauge? you could just use 0 to the trunk from the alt and 2 gauge over to the aux post from the alt and that would be plenty thick. unless you mean welding wire, that stuff is not measured the same as car audio cable. 2/0 is thinner than 0 gauge CA wire. I only suggested that because of the firewall hole already accessable on the drivers side. IMO, I would run it from the alternator to the Battery, and alternator to aux post as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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